Isolating Passing Loop and Extension

SDJR7F88 said:
Right, I've found some wire, it's the same as the stuff used for the track connectors. Can I just bury it or does it have to be covered?
Click to expand...
It all depends on your dog like tendencies of digging up something that you've buried.

If it's close to the railway line, and you don't think you're likely to go gardening there, just bury it.

If, on the other hand, other members of the family might take fancy to wielding a gardening fork, then it's worth protecting it in some way or other.

I've used 'ose (thank you to the two Ronnies) and I've used 20 mm conduit or 20 mm overflow pipe. Overflow pipe gives you right angle bends, conduit gives you easy bends with access lids - yer pays yer money and takes yer choice >:)>:)>:)>:)>:)
 
For the life of me, I can't find/remember the post I did on this exact same theme that helped a fellow member out that placed the insulated joints differently and the whole thing operated with a single (double pole double throw centre off) switch. Cost? Less than a cup of coffee.

Late Edit.....

I found a PM from matthew, in 2014 where we discussed this as a result of one of his posts.
 
Found it.

Two 'simple' wiring questions. Post by matthew in Controls, Signals, and Electronics.

Plan by ge_rik from post.

circuit4-jpg.181212
 
Last edited:
Seem, I don't have enough wire for the job, so have to get some more. What type do you guys recommend for the job, so I get it right first time? I'm looking for stuff similar to what is connected to the track connectors
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Seem, I don't have enough wire for the job, so have to get some more. What type do you guys recommend for the job, so I get it right first time? I'm looking for stuff similar to what is connected to the track connectors
Click to expand...

You may have sufficient if you consider my last post........
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Anymore info on wire type? Plus how to keep the ends dry (covered) when not in use?
Click to expand...

It is a given that you use copper wire outside. I don't see the need to 'keep it dry'. If you solder the wires to the rail correctly, they should last a very long time. I've got wires connecting to my rails that have held well for the last 15 years, and more.
 
Why remove the switch box..? Can't you cover it whilst not in use?
I think the connectors will wear out very quickly if you install & remove the box each time. Mostly these connectors aren't made for such 'heavy' use.

Indeed one must keep an eye on water in combination with electrics, but I don't see a problem with a bit of damp with the 'crude' parts we use outside. As long as no electronics are involved, not much can go wrong.
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Anymore info on wire type? Plus how to keep the ends dry (covered) when not in use?
Click to expand...
If you are really worried about extremes of weather, buy 5amp wire from a boat chandler - marine cabling is a slightly different quality to motor cable from Halfords - having said that, I use Halfords 5amp cabling for most of my - very short- track wiring (apart from the cooker cable - don't ask).

So make sure that cable entries are to the bottom of the box, and if you don't have a sealing gland, give it a good dollop of mastic - as it's on the underside, only the ants will see it :giggle::giggle::giggle:
 
Finally got around to doing some testing the other day and two trains for the first time passed successfully on the B&BLR! As can be seen the test was done with the recently arrived switch box, a spare Piko Track Power Connector split in two and a spare it of Piko wire with Piko Joiner Clamp.
After all your feed back it has been decided that I will mount the switch box and controller out side, in a special wooden box that that will be mounted to the wall. The wires will be buried in fine rubber tube, similar to that used for windscreen wiper pumps and connected to the box. I'll post some pictures of the box, a bit later. In the mean time here's some shots from testing...
DSC04848 (768x1024).jpg DSC04850 (768x1024).jpg DSC04851 (768x1024).jpg DSC04853 (1024x768).jpg DSC04856 (1024x768).jpg DSC04854 (1024x768).jpg DSC04855 (1024x768).jpg DSC04857 (768x1024).jpg
 

Attachments

  • DSC04848 (768x1024).jpg
    DSC04848 (768x1024).jpg
    155.7 KB · Views: 0
  • DSC04850 (768x1024).jpg
    DSC04850 (768x1024).jpg
    130.1 KB · Views: 0
  • DSC04851 (768x1024).jpg
    DSC04851 (768x1024).jpg
    136.8 KB · Views: 0
  • DSC04853 (1024x768).jpg
    DSC04853 (1024x768).jpg
    641.5 KB · Views: 0
SDJR7F88 said:
Finally got around to doing some testing the other day and two trains for the first time passed successfully on the B&BLR! As can be seen the test was done with the recently arrived switch box, a spare Piko Track Power Connector split in two and a spare it of Piko wire with Piko Joiner Clamp.
After all your feed back it has been decided that I will mount the switch box and controller out side, in a special wooden box that that will be mounted to the wall. The wires will be buried in fine rubber tube, similar to that used for windscreen wiper pumps and connected to the box. I'll post some pictures of the box, a bit later. In the mean time here's some shots from testing...
View attachment 214121 View attachment 214122 View attachment 214123 View attachment 214124 View attachment 214125 View attachment 214126 View attachment 214127 View attachment 214128
Click to expand...
I've decided to do it the same way as Nitwork Rail - just bury the cables in the ballast :D:D:D

If it works for them, presumably it'll work for me :mask::mask:

However, testing is always good :nod::nod::nod::nod:
 
I would be a little circumspect about leaving electronics outside like that.. Condensation will be a killer.
 
I think the Piko Switch Box should be OK outside 24/7/365 in your Wall Mounted Cabinet, but NOT the Mains Controller. Those Push to Fit connectors work very efficiently. So some Soldered Ends with the Mains Set Up brought out for each Operating Session should work just fine and be a quick setup.
JonD
 
Right, so what's the best plan of attack? Have the Switch Box mounted in the box, with all the wires leading from the track too it. Then when I want to run it, bring the controller out and connect it up in the box?
I though with all the covers on them they would both be ok out side?
Were do you guys have your controllers set up or like me do you take them outside when need?
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Right, so what's the best plan of attack? Have the Switch Box mounted in the box, with all the wires leading from the track too it. Then when I want to run it, bring the controller out and connect it up in the box?
I though with all the covers on them they would both be ok out side?
Were do you guys have your controllers set up or like me do you take them outside when need?
Click to expand...

Basically, if you are running 230V from your power source to a plug in controller outside, I'd put up with the fact that you will have to 'bring it in' at night, and also not operate in the rain. Only James Bond lived twice.
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Right, so what's the best plan of attack? Have the Switch Box mounted in the box, with all the wires leading from the track too it. Then when I want to run it, bring the controller out and connect it up in the box?
I though with all the covers on them they would both be ok out side?
Were do you guys have your controllers set up or like me do you take them outside when need?
Click to expand...
I have a dry insulate shed (self converted) with a Mains Supply and Tracks running through at 2 Levels. The Electrics are all based in this Shed with wires out to sections pretty much as you have done. Only thing is, because I am DCC I do not need any switching in the Garden except for the Points and these are all Air Controlled. Thus the switches and gear can live outside except for the Compressor. This again is in the Shed.
JonD
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top