LGB 2146 HGe 2/2 Schollenbahn No 3 Rack locomotive Battery conversion

DickyC

DickyC

(BZB Mountain Railway)
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I am basing my new railway layout(currently in land negotiations with MrsC, but building starting this autumn as I have now built her a new shiny Howdens kitchen and it has helped with said land negotiations), On a winding, curving German/Austro/Swiss/Italian mountainous Rack Railway through the garden linking a top and bottom station. I was going to just use a shuttle and analogue set up but after this first trial I am now going to use battery as the loco really seams ok with this.

First trial, thanks to a purchase via this forum of a delightful LGB 2146 HGe 2/2 Schollenbahn Rack locomotive I thought I would have a little experiment with a Piko 35040 RC I have had sitting about for a few years. After opening up the boxy loco it soon became apparent that the early 90s electricals inside allowed for this quick trial without and long term damage to its credentials.

As the old pins connecting the track pickup were literally two pins and not the black plastic connectors seen in the past it didn’t take long to take off and screw the wire from these into the Piko supplied switch, the battery was then connected to this same switch in the B position. The battery I’m using is a Li-ion 14v, 4 cell from RS components. 70BE3C11-2CCD-450B-89C3-EE8A1E57B8FA.jpeg
401EE910-CEB0-4958-B506-C2E83E6C8DA2.jpeg
 
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This loco is really testimony solid simple engineering, I am also lucky to be the owner of a LGB 70246 G Scale Zugspitz Rack Train set which went acquired was never run and still had the zugspites postcards and promo leaflets included, a 22 year old gem, but as it’s new I can yet bring myself to unscrew it if you know what I mean. I have just rigged up a test cog track on the work bench and the Schb has been running up and down at a nice gentle pace on and off when I pass for the last day. BE1C9BBE-FA75-4D70-96DA-DEC9405D27D5.jpeg
 
Now to the Piko controller. straight out of the box this worked after only a little fiddle with the button battery in the remote. No binding issues which has driven me nuts with my other locos! Interesting and different way to control a train and I quite like it. However...

1) There seams to be a “lot” of steps in the speed curve before it moves, I quite like this but if not used the emergency stop sequence it’s a little tricky.
2) don’t think there is a way to adjust these steps, is this the same as others find ?
3)think this might burn batteries in the key fob with use much quicker than a car fob which gets relatively little use.
4) there’s seams to be another version on the market with higher amp rating, where would this come into play ?
 
Fob battery lasts 1-2 years.

Emergency Stop press both the Fwd and Rev buttons together....
 
Gizzy said:
Fob battery lasts 1-2 years.

Emergency Stop press both the Fwd and Rev buttons together....
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Thanks Gizzy, That emergency stop is great tip. Do you find that there are a lot of "step" beween speeds ? Wow 1-2 years is great news for the fob. I really like it and was amazed to see that its Piko branded inside as thought they may have just used a generic bit of kit.

I think I may be piko shopping later ! have you added a sound card to this kit also?
 
Team_Kona said:
Thanks Gizzy, That emergency stop is great tip. Do you find that there are a lot of "step" beween speeds ? Wow 1-2 years is great news for the fob. I really like it and was amazed to see that its Piko branded inside as thought they may have just used a generic bit of kit.

I think I may be piko shopping later ! have you added a sound card to this kit also?
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No I haven't fitted a sound card to the Piko Track Cleaning Loco. No room in the bonnet as it's full of batteries, and too difficult to fit in the cab....
 
Gizzy said:
No I haven't fitted a sound card to the Piko Track Cleaning Loco. No room in the bonnet as it's full of batteries, and too difficult to fit in the cab....
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Not a lot of room inside these models. I ended up putting the sound card under a false floor in the cab, though it meant the driver needed his feet amputating and he is still crushed down by the internal roof.
 
My sound solution was to add a My Loco Sound card to a small box added to the rear of the cab. Have to say I like viaEstrecha viaEstrecha ’s option. Some of you already found my thread, but for those still wondering here is a link to it.

Modifying a Piko 25 Tonner to Battery Power.

Now I imagine that some on here will be wondering why he is doing that when there exists a Battery Powered one already? Well the answer is that I have no need for a Track Cleaning Loco, I want one that is controllable (the Track Cleaner to the best of my knowledge can only be made to go...
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net
 
LEDS: Just got to the stage of fitting the lights to the Piko 35040 Battery conversion im doing, I have upto now used the circuits already installed from LGB but want to put new LEDs in, The leaflet and online searchs have brought NO/ZERO info online about the lighting output so just checked with the multi meter and its dishing out 15.48v and 0.02ma, so no wonder it killed very quickly a nice RC trains 3.5v (4vmax) LED. Time to invest in a supply of PhilP PhilP RC trains larger rated LEDs (18v) as they really are a nice bit of kit.
 
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Update on this Loco, The Piko 35040 RC system has been removed, not sure if it was just my kit but the number of steps required to get the loco moving was just way to many, so updated this to lococontol RC as i have done with my MOB GE 4/4. must more responsive and easier to control, especially with the FULL STOP option, pressing the two buttons together on the piko fob not a natural thing to do. Result of the conversion in this test i just put on YT. :talking:

 
DickyC said:
Update on this Loco, The Piko 35040 RC system has been removed, not sure if it was just my kit but the number of steps required to get the loco moving was just way to many, so updated this to lococontol RC as i have done with my MOB GE 4/4. must more responsive and easier to control, especially with the FULL STOP option, pressing the two buttons together on the piko fob not a natural thing to do. Result of the conversion in this test i just put on YT. :talking:

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I think the Piko jobby is ok for small locomotives, but the rack loco no way counts as a small loco with its great big lumpy motor.
 
dunnyrail said:
I think the Piko jobby is ok for small locomotives, but the rack loco no way counts as a small loco with its great big lumpy motor.
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I agree, I think the next step up "35042 R/C Loco Receiver 5A" would the better option for meaty lumps, In mode two here is the step profile. They kick in from 7.5v PIKO 35042.jpg
 
DickyC said:
I agree, I think the next step up "35042 R/C Loco Receiver 5A" would the better option for meaty lumps, In mode two here is the step profile. They kick in from 7.5v View attachment 320954
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Oh thanks tgat is new to me, spect Topslots will have them if not now soon. Of course it still has the finger pressing that does take some getting used to. If it had a stop button and perhaps an extra sound call function it would be a much more user friendly thing. But of course that would involve an expensive re-design for something that perhaps they mistakenly believe is a kids toy.
 
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