Accy Mortimer in bits - Worth while mods at the same time??

andyspencer

andyspencer

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Hi guys, well what started as a quick job to alter the superheat pipe has turned into a lot of bits on the bench after finding lots of loose bits that shouldn't be. Currently I've changed the regulator handle, put in a proper number 5 gas jet and thinking about a chuff pipe, apart from that she's a standard loco. Is there anything else worth doing whilst the loco is in bits? I've come across fitting mesh on the burner - any worth while gains? :)
 
andyspencer said:
Hi guys, well what started as a quick job to alter the superheat pipe has turned into a lot of bits on the bench after finding lots of loose bits that shouldn't be. Currently I've changed the regulator handle, put in a proper number 5 gas jet and thinking about a chuff pipe, apart from that she's a standard loco. Is there anything else worth doing whilst the loco is in bits? I've come across fitting mesh on the burner - any worth while gains? :)
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Stainless steel mesh. Yes it will quieten the gas burner and make it more efficient. Chuff pipe is a no brainer ? they just work well. You could swap the pressure gauge for a 1/2in gauge. Remove big knob from gas tank regulator, shorten the shaft, drill 1.5mm to use a bit of handrail wire to make an unobtrusive control. While the running plate is off check that the crosshead screws on the steam chests are tight. Tighten them crossways instead of going round as you do with a cylinder head on a car.


Cut Plasticard to just under size as rear cabsheet, spray cream and apply with a smear of silicone ? will really lift your cab. get specplate glasses from Acme engineering to glaze. If you want to push the boat out get a resonator whistle from DJB Engineering. To fit you just need to drill three holes in the spec plate to stencil supplied ? the rest is bolt on Then you have a locomotive with a working whistle actually on the spec plate.


Hope this helps


Tag
 
Tag - your book would also recommend spraying the smokebox (and probably the tank tops) matt black and the back of the buffer beams black. I also like my buffer beams red, so I spray them with Ford Radient Red.

The mesh on the burner is an excellent mod - you can use mesh from a cheap stainless sieve.
Cheers
Chris
 
Chris Bird said:
Tag - your book would also recommend spraying the smokebox (and probably the tank tops) matt black and the back of the buffer beams black. I also like my buffer beams red, so I spray them with Ford Radient Red.

The mesh on the burner is an excellent mod - you can use mesh from a cheap stainless sieve.
Cheers
Chris
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Well it would yes. I love modding these Accucraft locos...
 
You could swap your burner for a Milton Loco Works burner for a modest amount. Best mod I made to my Edrig.
They also sell safety valve covers, gas valve mods, regulator handles. Worth a look.

Dave.
 
Yes the Milton stuff is realy top notch quality and he has been very helpful. I don't think they have any of the safety valve covers in as he does things in batches. Swiftsixteen are getting some done at the moment with a local CNC firm. http://www.swiftsixteen.com/brassValveCover.html

I think a few small changes here and there, a bit of detailing and running repairs will transform it from a toylike appearance into more of a scale model, well worth the effort in my opinion.

Cheers
Rob
 
dgt said:
You could swap your burner for a Milton Loco Works burner for a modest amount. Best mod I made to my Edrig.
They also sell safety valve covers, gas valve mods, regulator handles. Worth a look.

Dave.
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Last time I looked most of the stuff was sold out Dave... There is likely to be another source soon. I will post when confirmed.
 
I've now sourced some stainless mesh for the burner, replaced the rear to wheel bearings, sprayed the cab roof satin black. On the list to do includes spraying the running boards, buffer beam rears and smoke box, getting a nice looking safety valve bonnet, fitting some 'lord Percy' name plates (after blackadder character), coal load for bunker.
like the idea of a cream cab, but won't the plasticard melt in there??
Thanks for all the responces guys.
 
I fitted mesh on my Edrig and I didn't notice any difference so I removed it,it's not noisy anyway.
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My Mortimer.
 
I was playing around with the burner out of the boiler on the bench, and I could get a bit of a difference when the mesh was put on. It seemed to make more of a difference when I reduced the main air supply as well with a small collar. And once its inside the boiler I'm sure it will make more of a difference.
 
Just don't turn the burner up too much.Most people do.
 
As the engine get's hotter,turn the gas down.
 
I'm always turning it down on all my accy loco's. How long does yours run for? When mines outside, it always runs the shortest out of all of mine, but had a bench test with a caradoc the other week, and they both ran out at around 40mins of burn time and both within 30secs of each other.
 
andyspencer said:
I'm always turning it down on all my accy loco's. How long does yours run for? When mines outside, it always runs the shortest out of all of mine, but had a bench test with a caradoc the other week, and they both ran out at around 40mins of burn time and both within 30secs of each other.
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It depends on the weather conditions,especially if it's breezy and cold or if you use butane propane mix in cold weather.
 
It's normally about thirty to forty min's which is pretty good.
 
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