Aristo ART21309 slopeback tender

G

Glengrant

Registered
Finally getting round to changing the couplings from knuckles to the hook and loop. Do I have to vandalise the cross piece rear step in order to get the hook coupling into place. It seems to me that the spring gets in the way of this step. Or have I got the wrong hook?
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You either have to loose the hook or cut away the center of the rear step. You have this problem on most Aristo-Craft locos.
 
funandtrains said:
You either have to loose the hook or cut away the center of the rear step. You have this problem on most Aristo-Craft locos.
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OK thanks, I was coming to that conclusion. I wish these guys would try it out before just glibly saying unscrew one and screw in the other. It's a bit like motor car instruction manuals. Parcels shelf fitting - first remove the engine
 
Aristo-Craft have said that they would prefer to stop suppling hook and loop couplers but people keep asking for them.

You are better off using an LGB or USAT loop coupler as they work better. The Aristo-Craft hook tails hang down too low and get stuck in LGB points ;plus the springs tend to come out and get lost.
 
OK I'll bear that in mind. The evil deed has been done and a very basic push the tender test indicates clearnces should be OK but looks a bit tight. A proper runnin test will be done tomorrow, it's getting rather cold out there now. Thanks for your advice
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I found that if you add a few drops of aquahere (wood glue) on a match or toothpick, placed to the top & bottom of the springs in the hook & loop couplings the springs stay in. Off course let the glue dry first.
Cheers from Andrew
Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
 
Another alternative is to body-mount the hook'n'loop coupling. I have two of these tenders, one with truck mounted coupling and one with body-mount (using a block of wood and a long nut and bolt). Both have the centre section of the rear step cut away as you have done. Both seem to work fine on R1 curves. I prefer the body-mounted coupling as it doesn't stick out so far.

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(The odd looking axle is because the centre plastic section of the split axle had cracked. An old ballpoint pen casing was ideal, with a spot of epoxy resin. Must paint it sometime!)
 
OK chaps that's a useful amount of info to go on. All I have to do now is brave the cold and do a bit of testing. I'll wait to see if the temp gets up a bit, sun's OK, but it's still below zero. Watch this space
 
My Dad never bothered. He just removed the original coupling and job done. The LGB hook of the first coach or wagon is just right to auto click under the step and there is enough room for sideways movement even on radius 1. It never uncouples by accident, it also auto couples with only one ramp if required. No bother, no trouble, no hacking and looks a lot better without a proud coupling to spoil the looks. Also, it can be put back to standard at any time (obviously).
 
vasim said:
My Dad never bothered. He just removed the original coupling and job done. The LGB hook of the first coach or wagon is just right to auto click under the step and there is enough room for sideways movement even on radius 1. It never uncouples by accident, it also auto couples with only one ramp if required. No bother, no trouble, no hacking and looks a lot better without a proud coupling to spoil the looks. Also, it can be put back to standard at any time (obviously).
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Well I never, there it was, the answer staring us in the face all the time. Bit late now of course since I've attacked it with the hacksaw. Wonder if I could get a replacement step?
 
Interesting. How well did this cope with pushing stock rather than pulling? I'd be worried the step on it's own wouldn't be thick enough to cope with undulations, and would ride under or over the loop of the first wagon?
 
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