ARISTOCRAFT LOCOS

duncan1_9_8_4

UK Railway Signaller and Garden Railway Operator
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do they negotiate r1 corners, i ask this as in the catalogue, only certain locos have info on minimum diameter corners???

thanks
 
U25 Did when u had one and the FA1 but they look a little silly .

My understanding is they run on R2 but work best on 8 foot min
 
duncan1_9_8_4 said:
do they negotiate r1 corners, i ask this as in the catalogue, only certain locos have info on minimum diameter corners???

thanks

My RS3 and my U25 will negotiate 5ft dia light engine, but put a load on them and they derail. But they're fine on 6ft dia curves:thumbup:
 
what is the reason for the derailments then? is it the loco or the train which derails, would hoop and hook couplers sort it out?
 
keep me posted, i would like some of their locos but also have r1s. just a hoop on loco and hook and loop on the wagons maybe
 
duncan1_9_8_4 said:
what is the reason for the derailments then? is it the loco or the train which derails, would hoop and hook couplers sort it out?

It's the loco (RS3 and U25) that derails, I found that 5 ft dia curves were just a little to tight to negotiate when the loco is under load. I acquired a rail bender and eased the 5ft curve to 6ft. This sorted the problem. My goods yard is all R1 points, when backing into the yard if done so at a slow speed the loco under load enters with no problems, but it must be at slow speed, exiting the yard is the same. But in general, big loco = big curve

Another problem that I came across was with smaller engines when they crossed an R1 cross-over point whilst pulling the Aristocraft Shortie wagons. The first wagon would cross but the second would derail, pulling the rest of the wagons off. I found that the problem was caused by the Aristo knuckles, the springs were to strong inside the coupler. So, I dismantled the coupler, took the spring out and cut it in half, this lightened the tention on the knuckle. This cured the problem, wagons now cross R1 crossover point without derailing.
 
I agree with BigJack re the coupling tension springs: I took the springs off altogether from the pivoting coupling mounts on both my U25B diesels and that allowed them to pull stock through R1 without derailment on my previous temporary indoor trackage. However they did look very daft running thru R1. My outdoor line was built with R3 minimum to ensure I can run larger/longer locos.

SD45 and Class 66 diesels use the same motor block but the 66 bodywork restricts the bogie swing more than on the SD45. Class 66 definitely won't run on less than R3 without surgery. Not sure about the SD45 on less than R3 (not tried mine on such tight curves), but being longer than a U25B i think you'd be pushing your luck!
 
I should add that my Aristo 0-4-0 and 2-4-2 steamers have no problems with R1.
 
I have a Aristo Mikado 2-8-2 only just goes round my R3 curves ,it has alot of over hang with the cab roof .
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Mention has been made of the Aristo-Craft Rogers 2-4-2,  the 0-4-0 switcher and 'Lill Critter are fine running on very tight curves.

Another Aristo loco which will negotiate your curves is the Center Cab. (larger version of the Critter and shortened version of the RS3).  With all Aristo locos and rolling stock comes a set of 'hook and loop' type couplers as an option.

I have two Center Cabs and I find them great when running for short periods when you don't want long trains or when there is a possibility of rain.  They are easily picked up with one hand whereas larger locos requite two usually.  I think there are dealers in the UK, usually those mentioned on the Forum, who still have stocks and generally they come with a free caboose.  (Rarely, however, do I see the caboose included on Ebay adverts.  :thinking:)
 
I only have the SD70MAC and that's 4' radius (8' diam) minimum without load.
5' radius minimum with load and LGB type coupler, preferably more if you want to use the original knuckle, as it may drag wagons off the track.
 
so, as an aside, how do usa trains rate, regarding the r1 issue, for example the switchers they do??

I don't have any tight curves so it is hard to answer this. The problem with curves is usually more to do with throwing stock off then derailing. The USAT NW-2 is a very short loco and so might be a good bet on tight curves.
 
Just to add to the debate, my Aristocraft GP40 is fine on R1 on its own, but only on R2 or larger with a load due to the knuckle couplers. Great engine - I love it.
 
it does deem, through reading various replies that it is the knuckle couplers that are the problem. i prefer the hoop and hook system anyway. dont really want any massive loco's, i quite like the ''short line'' idea, with some of the smaller locos and switchers, but need to be sure they ok on r1s, which i cant get out of. (stupid garden).
 
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