Bachman Lyn axles

Northsider

Northsider

Modelling the Northern half of the Isle of Man
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As detailed on the workbench thread, I have been converting a Bachmann  Lyn into a freelance 0-4-2 tank loco. Although it had a degree of Anglicisation late last summer, it hasn't had much use since then. I ran it today, and the axles popped out of the gears -twice- resulting in derailment due to being significantlyout of gauge. I don't think there's anything keeping the two half axles in the gear other than an interference fit -is that correct? If so, is there a fix?
This may explain why she was on sale, dismantled, for (G Scale) pocket money...:oops:
 
Northsider said:
As detailed on the workbench thread, I have been converting a Bachmann  Lyn into a freelance 0-4-2 tank loco. Although it had a degree of Anglicisation late last summer, it hasn't had much use since then. I ran it today, and the axles popped out of the gears -twice- resulting in derailment due to being significantlyout of gauge. I don't think there's anything keeping the two half axles in the gear other than an interference fit -is that correct? If so, is there a fix?
This may explain why she was on sale, dismantled, for (G Scale) pocket money...:oops:
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It looks as if the wheel retention system is pretty standard Bachmann (large scale) which involves plastic bits and pieces, washers etc to provide electrical isolation. Clearly, you might be able to bodge fix something as you don't need the wheelsets to be insulated.
 
Rhinochugger said:

It looks as if the wheel retention system is pretty standard Bachmann (large scale) which involves plastic bits and pieces, washers etc to provide electrical isolation. Clearly, you might be able to bodge fix something as you don't need the wheelsets to be insulated.
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Agreed, though it may require glue in an oily/greasy polymer gear: success is nowhere near guaranteed...
 
I have a Baldwin I converted to a Lyn, and if your’s is that model and not the earlier one with the clamshell, the axes should be well secured if assembled correctly.

P.S. did you refit the cowcatchers, if not, do wish to sell them.
 
Northsider said:
Agreed, though it may require glue in an oily/greasy polymer gear: success is nowhere near guaranteed...
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There were two iterations of the Bachmann Lynn, I believe that ge_rik ge_rik had an issue with drive gears when he was doing some mods to one - he may be able to help.

That diagram, which I assume to be the latter Lynn, shows a single continuous axle.
 
Rhinochugger said:
There were two iterations of the Bachmann Lynn, I believe that ge_rik ge_rik had an issue with drive gears when he was doing some mods to one - he may be able to help.

That diagram, which I assume to be the latter Lynn, shows a single continuous axle.
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I tried to replace the large worm gears with smaller ones. i don't remember having any problems with the wheels, though I do recall them being a bit fiddly. I might have some parts of another Lynn block somewhere, I'll see if I can fish it out.

Rik
 
It's this type, not the one in Rhino's post.
20250320_092326.jpg
The wheels have a stub axle with a square drive on them, which are a press-fit into the gears.
 
Rhinochugger said:
What about drilling an insy-winsy hole through the gear shoulder and axle and slipping a piece of brass rod through?
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Yes I may have to. My latest discovery is M1 screws. Their heads are about the same size as a G Scale rivet. A couple of those might do the trick. Although I'm loath to strip the loco down, having only just reassembled it!
 
Northsider said:
Yes I may have to. My latest discovery is M1 screws. Their heads are about the same size as a G Scale rivet. A couple of those might do the trick. Although I'm loath to strip the loco down, having only just reassembled it!
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I know the feeling well, having just opened up the tender wot I thought I'd finished :oops:
 
Rhinochugger said:
Were the dummy side frames meant to hold the wheels in place? :rolleyes:
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I don't know if they are meant to, but they will of course serve that purpose.

I've been running the loco this afternoon, and she only played up the once. On investigating, I found that there was a lot of play on the motion on one of the front drivers; the connecting rods sit on a square boss on the wheel to keep the quartering, and this had slipped. I tidied up the boss with a needle file, making it a little deeper at the same time. As the motion on an electric loco effectively works backwards, with the driven wheels moving the piston rod in and out, losing the quartering makes the motion lock up, and something has to give. I'm wondering if that thing is the wheels being forced from their sockets. The loco has been running happily for around an hour since I made the adjustment, so fingers crossed I'm right!

EDIT: And carried on running light engine for another two hours, without incident...
 
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Rhinochugger said:

It looks as if the wheel retention system is pretty standard Bachmann (large scale) which involves plastic bits and pieces, washers etc to provide electrical isolation. Clearly, you might be able to bodge fix something as you don't need the wheelsets to be insulated.
Click to expand...
I may stand corrected but the drawing this link takes you to is the second series drive train for these 2-4-2s. The first series with the plastic two part shell is rubbish (overtightening of the self tapping screws breaks the plastic pillars they go into) and the wheels are not held securely on the axles.

Bought one of the first series from the US for US$75 which had received the "drop it in a bucket of rust" weathering technique which I wasn't too bothered about as it was supposed to be a good runner.


As Bought-3.jpg


When it arrived the drive train was barely usable and I received a full refund from both the seller and eBay for postage - it will need a new motor block machined for it before it becomes a runner (no spares for this model on Bachmann spare parts site).



Coincidentally I'm picking up a second series unit this week - purchased cheaply as apparently its motor doesn't work....
 
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David Price said:
I may stand corrected but the drawing this link takes you to is the second series drive train for these 2-4-2s. The first series with the plastic two part shell is rubbish (overtightening of the self tapping screws breaks the plastic pillars they go into) and the wheels are not held securely on the axles.

Bought one of the first series from the US for US$75 which had received the "drop it in a bucket of rust" weathering technique which I wasn't too bothered about as it was supposed to be a good runner.

When it arrived the drive train was barely usable and I received a full refund from both the seller and eBay for postage - it will need a new motor block machined for it before it becomes a runner (no spares for this model on Bachmann spare parts site).

Coincidentally I'm picking up a second series unit this week - purchased cheaply as apparently its motor doesn't work....
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Yes, that drawing is a second series, whereas mine is first series. I bought it as an incomplete box of bits - it appeared to have been converted to RC and battery power, but all this had been stripped out before I got it. Time will tell how sturdy/reliable its drivetrain is.

Should the worst happen, will a series 2 motor block fit a series 1 body?
 
Will be able to tell you whether the second series motor block will fit after I pick up the 2nd series I've purchased later this week. (I have to pull it down as the despite being near new condition the motor "doesn't work".

(I don't think it will fit directly - and I notice the motor blocks are no longer listed on Bachmann's spare parts page)
 
David Price said:
Will be able to tell you whether the second series motor block will fit after I pick up the 2nd series I've purchased later this week. (I have to pull it down as the despite being near new condition the motor "doesn't work".

(I don't think it will fit directly - and I notice the motor blocks are no longer listed on Bachmann's spare parts page)
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If you replace the motor, can you let me know what you replaced it with? My Series 2 blow it's motor years ago, and I've never managed to find a replacement that actually works properly.
 
I bet the motor itself works fine..

As for the wheels / pickups, and the drive-train... :rolleyes:

That is why so many go battery. - Gets round the pickup problems.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
I bet the motor itself works fine..

As for the wheels / pickups, and the drive-train... :rolleyes:

That is why so many go battery. - Gets round the pickup problems.

PhilP.
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I have a loose rule of thumb - anything less than a 6-coupled loco with bogie tender pickups is a prime candidate for conversion to battery power.

There are, as is inevitable, a couple of exceptions :giggle::giggle:
 
Northsider said:
Should the worst happen, will a series 2 motor block fit a series 1 body?
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Most likely. Tony Walsham of RCS had a post about adding RC to a newer Lyn. "It is quite small and there are some left over mouldings from the previous version inside the boiler which have to be removed." Mine has the latest motor block and the referenced posts inside the boiler. David should have a better take on it after his new motor block arrives.
 
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