Basswood

[Eaglecliff]

I'm using 3-inch wide basswood sheet 1/16th thick to construct a vertically planked stock car. The planks will be scored into the wood lengthwise in sections rather than cut individually. Unfortunately, the basswood, which I have had for a while, is gently curving with its own grain. There will be some horizontals glued across the grain , also 1/16th but from 1/16th by 1/4 stock, which should help but I'm not convinced they will overcome the curvature . Is there any means whereby I can flatten the wood, e.g., dampening it, weighting it and leaving it to dry?

 

[Rhinochugger]

The safest way i.e. something that will provide a lasting solution, would be to glue another sheet of wood on the inside, either a thin, modelling ply, or more basswood with the grain going in the opposite direction.

You may need to leave this 'backing' sheet a few millimetres back from the edges for construction purposes, but you'll also need to make sure that the glue is evenly spread over the entire mating surfaces. The result will provide a pretty solid laminate that should not warp with change of humidity / moisture in any external situation.

 

[Northsider]

Just a minor tweak to Rhino's advice: I'd use a piece of 1/16th ply on the back, with the visible grain at 90 degrees to the grain of the basswood, rather than a second piece of basswood. Ideally you would have three layers to balance out the 'pull' of the timber as the glue cures, which is why plywood always has an odd number of layers -it keeps these forces balanced.

 

[Eaglecliff]

Just a minor tweak to Rhino's advice: I'd use a piece of 1/16th ply on the back, with the visible grain at 90 degrees to the grain of the basswood, rather than a second piece of basswood. Ideally you would have three layers to balance out the 'pull' of the timber as the glue cures, which is why plywood always has an odd number of layers -it keeps these forces balanced.

Thanks both. I had also considered making 2-ply, but the problem with 3-ply would be the resultant thickness as the interior of the model will be partially open. There are horizontals between the external verticals and this would look odd. I shall continue to scratch my head...

 

[Northsider]

Thanks both. I had also considered making 2-ply, but the problem with 3-ply would be the resultant thickness as the interior of the model will be partially open. There are horizontals between the external verticals and this would look odd. I shall continue to scratch my head...

I have used a veneer softener on dry veneers; it claims to make the veneer more flexible and seemed to work. I have no idea if it would work on a single thickness of basswood.

 

[trammayo]

I used thin obechi ply for one scratchbuild and it was easy to scribe the planks.

 

[dunnyrail]

As Mick says Obechi if you can source it is good stuff. But with your damp damaged stock, steaming it and trying to flatten it may work. Try using some old bits of Melamine and clamp it between 2 pieces. May or may not work, if not you may need to source some new.

 

[Eaglecliff]

I used thin obechi ply for one scratchbuild and it was easy to scribe the planks.

View attachment 280579

I wish I could build to that standard, Mick. But my problem stems from the prototype of my model. There is a gap between the floor and the bottom of the vertically planked sides, which then extend only two-thirds of the height of the vehicle, like a 1900's UK cattle wagon. There are vertical supports either side of the planking the full height of the car sides. Increasing the thickness of the planked "sides" means increasing the thickness/width of the 2 narrow horizontals above the lower sides. The internal framing doesn't help, as the verticals and horizontals there are not continuous; I could keep either whole, which doesn't work, or try cross-halving joints... Which really just takes us back to flattening the basswood... actually, I have rooted around a bit more in the attic (motto: "abandon hope all ye who enter here") and found a few flatter bits...

 

[John Le Forestier]

I wish I could build to that standard, Mick. But my problem stems from the prototype of my model. There is a gap between the floor and the bottom of the vertically planked sides, which then extend only two-thirds of the height of the vehicle, like a 1900's UK cattle wagon. There are vertical supports either side of the planking the full height of the car sides. Increasing the thickness of the planked "sides" means increasing the thickness/width of the 2 narrow horizontals above the lower sides. The internal framing doesn't help, as the verticals and horizontals there are not continuous; I could keep either whole, which doesn't work, or try cross-halving joints... Which really just takes us back to flattening the basswood... actually, I have rooted around a bit more in the attic (motto: "abandon hope all ye who enter here") and found a few flatter bits...

You can. The main ingredients are care and patience. Nice work!

 

[trammayo]

I wish I could build to that standard, Mick. But my problem stems from the prototype of my model. There is a gap between the floor and the bottom of the vertically planked sides, which then extend only two-thirds of the height of the vehicle, like a 1900's UK cattle wagon. There are vertical supports either side of the planking the full height of the car sides. Increasing the thickness of the planked "sides" means increasing the thickness/width of the 2 narrow horizontals above the lower sides. The internal framing doesn't help, as the verticals and horizontals there are not continuous; I could keep either whole, which doesn't work, or try cross-halving joints... Which really just takes us back to flattening the basswood... actually, I have rooted around a bit more in the attic (motto: "abandon hope all ye who enter here") and found a few flatter bits...

I can see your dilema! Good luck with your build and I hope you start a thread about it.