Battery and Harzish conversion to LGB 2073D U2 with Fosworks and My Loco Sound

[dunnyrail]

So a few pics out on the line but before the crew added yesterday.

A few pictures for comparison with my DCC sound fitted No.2 Zillertal, I originally purchased this beast for this conversion but on looking at the works required particularly the completely wrong chimney elected to hunt for a cheeper option. Looking at the pictures I am sure you can see the many changes made to an U2 to make this what I initially thought to be a slightly different U2.

Job done. Well except perhaps for some more weathering, not least to help mask the plastic liquid glue marks on the bottom middle of the tanks.

 

[MaybachMD]

Jon

Thanks again. It looks superb. A great idea. Looks good in context. No need to follow progress. It‘s done!

Simon

 

[a98087]

Nice bit of modelling, I’m now eyeing up my spare u class, and having thoughts involving razor saws and plasticard

Dan

 

[curtis]

For some reason, I missed this so enjoyed getting all the story in one swoop. Excellent skills on display there, Jon. Great work!

 

[jordispain]

Good morning, where did you put the batteries and how many cells did you put in? Best regards

 

[dunnyrail]

Good morning, where did you put the batteries and how many cells did you put in? Best regards

The last picture in Post #17 shows how I put the 2 joined battery packs in the tank sides. There are 6 AAA rechargeable batts in each side thus 12 batteries total.

 

[Wellsay Railway]

Thanks for telling about this thread with the details of the conversion. I see that you have direct wired the motor, which gets round the leakage of current you mentioned. I've found that taking the black plate off the motor block enables me to remove the motor so I don't need to strip down the block (taking wheels off etc). I'm applying some lateral thinking to batteries etc so hopefully may have something for next week.

Rgds Andrew

 

[dunnyrail]

Thanks for telling about this thread with the details of the conversion. I see that you have direct wired the motor, which gets round the leakage of current you mentioned. I've found that taking the black plate off the motor block enables me to remove the motor so I don't need to strip down the block (taking wheels off etc). I'm applying some lateral thinking to batteries etc so hopefully may have something for next week.

Rgds Andrew

Be careful you do not loose the thrust bearings at each end of the motor rod. Cleaning out the old skanky grease to be replaced with the correct type also a good part of the work. DO NOT USE CAR GRADE GREASE!