British Outline Buildings (BoB) The Black Boy Inn

[3Valve]

Introduction

The Black Boy Inn. A British Outline Buildings (BoB) Kit now manufactured and marketed by Garden Railway Specialists (GRS). OK so this review has been a long time coming as I bought the kit in 2010, when GRS first took over production from BoB, but now that I’ve finally got somewhere near completing the kit I thought a little review may help others in taking the plunge with one of these models.

Who Should Buy

I think this is pretty important. If you’re a novice model builder then this isn’t the kit to cut your teeth on. I would say that this kit is aimed at intermediate – advanced model makers. If you have never scratch built or done a fairly major kit-bash, then this isn’t the kit for you.

What’s in the Box?

Well, “quite a lot” is the simple answer. Indeed almost everything you need to complete this model including gutters, downpipes, glazing, hanging baskets and windows boxes, waterslide decals and laminated signage. Even hairgrips are included to fabricate the hanging basket and pub sign brackets. I say “almost everything”, which I’ll explain later. With the price currently listed at £142.00 you do get a lot of model for your money and I think it’s good value (and I’m really tight).

 

[3Valve]

The Build

Instructions

Most of build was fairly straightforward. It doesn’t hurt to carry out a couple dry runs of the main wall assembly etc. to familiarise yourself with both the process and the parts. You can also gauge during the dry run(s) where you may need to file/fill/sand etc., to get a good fit.
The instructions are not the best I’ve seen (hence the suggestion of a dry run or two). There is a sheet of typed instructions which are pretty detailed, but are also generic general assembly instructions to cover the entire product range.

On the back of this typed sheet is a sheet of exploded diagrams showing assembly techniques. These diagrams are somewhat poor IMO. They are hand drawn with hand-written explanatory text, some of which is barely legible. Furthermore, be careful too not to be misled. These drawings are also generic and cover several building kits in the range. This is why I recommend the dry runs as you get an idea of what is included in your kit. Saves you searching for part on this instruction sheet that doesn’t actually apply to your model (ask me how I know).

There is also second sheet with full colour photographs of the finished model on one side (very useful for reference), and further hand-drawn assembly diagrams on the reverse. These diagrams do apply to the specific kit in question and, in the main, show the assembly of the main components (walls, roof, dormers, roof fittings etc. Again I would prefer to see typed text on these diagrams rather than hand-written.

 

[3Valve]

Windows

So instructions deciphered and dry runs under our belt we get to putting it together. Shocker No.1 for me. Every window frame has to be scratch-built from 2mm square plastic rod (provided). There are 23 window to complete on this model, and, here’s where the “almost everything” bit comes in. There wasn’t enough 2mm square rod provided in my kit to build every window frame and the pub signs too (yes you have to scratch-build those as well). Possibly an oversight in my kit, but in case it isn’t, 3 packs of rod are provided, 4 packs are needed (and believe me I used it very sparingly).

Two sheets of plastic glazing are also provided in the kit to complete your windows, one plain, for the rear windows, dormers, and pub signs, the other being “leaded” windows for the front of the building. Your window glazing is of course cut from these sheets.

What I do like about the kit is the window openings. There is a moulded in “inner frame” in each wall section into which your glazing and window frame pops. There’s plenty of room to get some glue in there without it smudging or running onto the glazing. You can make a really nice job of these windows with a little care.

 

[3Valve]

Walls

So, on to the walls:  There is a sheet of graph paper provided in the kit which you use to align the sides and ends of the building, to ensure that they are square.  (I used it to assist in making my window frames too BTW).
The front and back walls come in three sections, simply butt jointed together with my weapon of choice, two-part epoxy.  Once set, a smear of Isopon P38 on the back of the join strengthens things up.  Getting the end walls square is a doddle with the use of the supplied graph paper.  This kit also contains one internal wall, which not only provides much needed strength but separates the building into two distinct areas (Bar and Lounge, or Bar and Restaurant perhaps).  With the main structure built, Isopon P38 is again used to disguise the butt joints between the wall sections, and the corner joints.

Walls built - roof test fit

 

[3Valve]

Paint
Painting was carried out at this stage.  The window frames were laid out on card then given a covering of grey plastic primer then top-coated in matt black (Halfords rattle-can), and a coating of matt varnish.  The main building structure is a mixture of stone and whitewashed walls.  I masked off the stone-work first then applied a few coats of white plastic primer (my whitewash).  Once dry, I masked off “whitewash”, removed the masking from the stonework and sprayed with grey plastic primer. 

Once all was dry I picked out the stonework, lintels, sills, doors, door-frames etc., with acrylic paints, then gave everything a generous coat of matt varnish.  Once the varnish had dried I glued my glazing and window frames into place.

Time for a brew.  Seriously you’ve earned it at this stage.

Paint applied



Windows in

 

[3Valve]

The Roof

The roof comes in several sections; 3 “standard” roof sections, a dormer section; two further small triangular sections that make up the single dormer, and 4 sections that make the “flat-roofed” dormer.

First job.  The single dormer section needs a triangular cut out.  Razor saw or Dremel/rotary tool with a cutting/grinding disk should sort this (I used the latter).  For the flat-roofed dormer section, I simply pained the area of roof where it was to fit matt black.  You really can’t tell when it’s all built.
The roof will need a generous dose of the three “F’s” to complete (Fettling, Filling and Filing).  It isn’t a straightforward fit and you will need to apply Isopon or similar filler in places to ensure a good result.  Patience is the key here.

The chimneys too were a bit of a surprise as they come as a solid casting without the roof profile cut-out at the base.  My recommendation for achieving this cut is a Dremel/Rotary tool with cutting disk.  It will take you ages with a hacksaw or razor saw.  My tip, measure mark up the piece, then cut just below the cutting marks.  You can then grind back to the correct profile once the main section has been cut-out (easier to take more off than to add on).

Again my only other slight disappointment with the roof was the gaps between roof and wall sections.  You get this on most kits somewhere along the side walls but the gable ends are usually a good fit.  Not quite in this case.  There is gap at the gables that needs a touch of old trusty Isopon P38 again.  There are also a couple of gaps between roof and sidewall but these will be well hidden once the guttering is fitted.  Of course if you intend to illuminate the building, then fill these gaps thoroughly with Isopon or similar from the inside, (there is plenty of room for you to reach inside the building to do this).

Roof underway



and in primer - chimney`s cut n fitted

 

[3Valve]

With the roof assembled, I again masked off the walls and dormers, then primed and painted and varnished the roof and fittings.  I simply used a large piece of thin card hand-held in the appropriate places to mask off what I didn’t want to apply primer or varnish too.  If you’re masking/spraying skills aren’t up to this, then please take the time to mask off with tape/paper etc.  It will be worth the effort.

Roof done, get another brew.

All painted up - ready for signs n stuff.

 

[KandNWLR]

I remember seeing this when it was first offered on the market, but didn´t make the necessary "buying decision". I´m glad to see someone did though. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Looks as though the image stuck in my head though, as I named my coaching inn the "Black Pig"

 

[3Valve]

Signage, Lettering and Fittings.

So there you have it. Your building is almost ready. Just the signage and flowery bits to do. As mentioned earlier the hanging pub signs are scratch-built from plain glazing sheet (provided), 2mm square plastic rod (provided, but not enough), and hairgrips (provided). Assembly instructions are supplied on the “Kit Specific” sheet of diagrams (I used my own signage so haven’t done this bit). If you don’t fancy this bit, and you’re not modelling the actual Black Boy Inn, then cast resin pub signs are available from the likes of TM Models/Modeltown and others.

Instructions are also provided on how to bend the supplied hairgrips to create hanging basket brackets. These are simply glued to the appropriately painted “blobs” of resin flowers (provided), and do look most effective when completed (if the photo’s in the instructions are anything to go by). I haven’t as yet made up any hanging baskets, as I’m hoping to source something more suitable from either the 1/24 scale dolls house fraternity, or perhaps these small resin ornaments that you sometime see in garden centres/gift shops etc. I’ll keep you updated if I find anything. If not I’ll be making up the baskets as per the kit. (Watch this space).

Lettering again is pretty straightforward. The sheet of laminated signs is simply cut out and applied with appropriate adhesive, and the waterslide decals are applied as per any waterslide decal with your traditional model aircraft kit (soak in water for a few minutes, slide the decal off the backing sheet onto the model, once dry give it a quick coat of matt varnish). I’ve actually produced my own lettering and signage on waterslide decal paper, but the method of application once your decals are printed is the same.

Fitting of the supplied guttering and downpipes looks straightforward too. (I'll let you know).

 

[3Valve]

So then, that’s it so far.

A quick summary.

The pro’s –

I believe BoB kits are now made to order. That considered, delivery was very quick.

It is a beautifully detailed accurate model of a prototype building.

The quality of moulding is superb.

Very little flash, The main wall structures fitted together very well with zero or minimal filing.

Construction on the whole has been well thought out (the window apertures, pre-moulded doors etc.).

Almost everything that you need to complete the model is supplied

Considering what you get its good value for money (IMO)

It's big. So many British style building kits out there to my eyes are just too small. This one isn't


The cons

Definitely not for beginners, cut your teeth on something simpler first. Or if you’ve got a mate who could put it together for the price of few beers, go for it.

The Roof is a bit of a faff to get right.

Instructions could be better.

Personally I would have like to have seen the chimneys with the roof profile already removed/moulded., but if you have good modelling skills and the appropriate tools it’s not that much of a problem to sort.



Would I buy another one? Definitely, Indeed I’m currently considering buying another kit to bash into two houses/shops.

 

[KandNWLR]

Now that´s what I call a product review. Many thanks for this. Looking forward to hear more about your experience building.

 

[beavercreek]

By heck Gareth, a really goodly review and a well 'finessed' build.

It would be interesting to compare the quality of the BOB kit 'out of the box' to something of similar size/cost from Pola/Piko or Pendlebury models.

I know that Pola/Piko only do a Euro/American range (although some buildings would only take a bit of bashing to make them more 'Brit') but for the same £140 you might not get a building of the size of the BOB pub even at the reduced street/online prices.
But I have noticed that the Pola/Piko bits do fit well and there is also very little flash.
There is much less 'fiddling' work to do as windows are ready made (although frames for openers have to be built and applied separately). Chimneys are preformed correctly and roofs tend to marry up nicely.

It is a hard call as, although it is very gratifying to have to use modelling skills tin 'bashing' the model to actually recreate its original purpose, the £140 for a partially produced kit (and also one that does not have enough material) might be asking a lot.

But as there is nothing like it around, it probably is worth it!

 

[3Valve]

Cheers Mike

I think out of the box mate, Pola/Piko would have it beat hands-down.

I just haven't seen anything as sizeable (or believable to me as a pub) in the other British outline resin ranges: Modeltown, Pendlebury, TM Models etc., (no offence to any of those guys. I have their stuff too and it's fab).

The only British pub I've seen of a comparative size would be the one from Pendle Valley, but at the time I bought this, they weren't being manufactured.

I was also fortunate to have got my kit for £85 during a sale at GRS when they first took over the BoB range.

I suppose deep down I've also enjoyed the challenge (yes it is very gratifying to have to use modelling skills), although at one point making window frames was becoming a repetitive chore (hence the 4-year completion).

Anyhoo - night off tonight, then guttering downpipes and signage on Thursday. More piccies to come.

 

[Martino]

Excellent review and blow by blow instruction Gareth, thank you.

I started off with GRS's Halt, signal cabin and water tower, and progressed onto the Gresford station building, which is now virtually finished. They are a bit of a challenge, but I think they are very well detailed and have a 'presence' so to speak. They also look good with 15mm and 16mm stock.

One tip, I use something called Sugru for filling gaps and dormers, which is easier than the isopon, as far as I'm concerned.

Thanks again Gareth.

 

[mike]

a great and informative review, and a cracking build log gartha.. nicely done matey..

 

[3Valve]

So I’m pretty much finished on this one now, apart from a few more decals and curtains at the windows.  So what was done to finish off?

Guttering and Downpipes

Guttering comes supplied in the form of a plastic corrugated sheet, two sets of three gutters are supplied (this is plenty to provide the required guttering).  Also supplied is a length of plastic pipe to fabricate the downpipes.  Again if used sparingly you should have enough for a downpipe front and rear, plus perhaps a small down pipe from the flat roof dormer to the main guttering below (I misplaced an offcut of my pipe so didn’t have enough for this.
Fitting the gutters is simple. 

Separate them from the sheet with a craft knife/Stanley knife or similar, also cut off the flat connecting section, but keep this for later.



Cut your gutters to length and simply glue them beneath the roof overhang with two-part epoxy or similar.  The gutters are already supplied black, so no need to paint, (unless of course you prefer grey or white).

To fit the down pipe again it’s pretty straightforward.  Bend, measure, cut.  This will need to be primed and painted once cut and bent.  I just mounted it on blutak on a piece of card, then sprayed it all up (leaving a small strip on the “back” to enable gluing to the building).

I’ve already gone into the decal fitting earlier in this review, but thought I’d put up a few piccies of the almost finished result, with gutters, downpipes and decals applied.







My pub sign I think came from TM Models, and cost a mere £1 complete with a laminated “Railway Inn” pub signs, (which of course I haven’t used, if anyone has a Railway Inn on their line they`re welcome to my signs).



Curtains will be fabricated from plasticard (to keep them weather-proof) and painted appropriately.  If you look in the flat-roof dormer section you should see that curtains have already been fitted here prior to assembly.



Oh yes the save the offcuts from the Guttering sheets for later bit.  The instructions mention fabricating mounting boards for the pub signs etc from plasticard.  the left over offcuts from the guttering sheets are the ideal width for this job, and saves delving into your plasticard stock.

Also, on the actual Black Boy Inn, there is some form of tiling/capping over the single dormer gable (see comparison pictures below), which isn`t included with the kit.  Again this offcut material could be used to fabricate this.

 

Hope this has been of use Ladies and Gents.

 

[bobg]

Nice job Gareth, and Free house too.

I likes free beer ya know!

 

[KandNWLR]

I like this *Making plans for next pub on the K&NWLR* :-\

 

[3Valve]

Interesting insight there Nigel, thanks for sharing your experiences.

Final piccy with hanging baskets and stuff in place.

 

[mbiff]

i like pubs - i do 8)