Phil, many thanks, my assumption, would be that any solvent would evaporate, and any softening would stop. I will see what others have to say, other wise back to standard plastic fillerSharp intake of breath...........
Well.................. Maybe..............
On LGB, you should be fine..
On Bachmann (other brands are available) I am not so sure..
Historically, there was a certain amount of cellulose in car body fillers, and the solvent would leach and cause some plastics to soften and deform. - This could take some time to occur..
Whether 'modern' fillers are the same, I do not know..
PhilP.
Thinking about this a little on my LGB 2-4-0 to Mallet Conversion I extensively used P38 Isopon Body Filler on the sundry nasty bits that needed filling. That was over 2 years ago with no signs of any ill effects as yet.I have some pre-positioned holes on a Bachmann loco body, I wish to "disappear", and thought body filler would be "more robust".
If it's only holes like that, you could try the dreaded Humbrol modelling filler - provided you can find a tube that isn't dried up solid (there was some discussion about this a week or two ago on this 'ere forum)'I have some pre-positioned holes on a Bachmann loco body, I wish to "disappear", and thought body filler would be "more robust".
I currently have Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty, but this is water soluble even when set, I also have Revell Plasto, and though reasonable, seems a little powdery, hence car body filler.If it's only holes like that, you could try the dreaded Humbrol modelling filler - provided you can find a tube that isn't dried up solid (there was some discussion about this a week or two ago on this 'ere forum)'
If you can find a tube of the Humbrol that is still workable, it's good stuff and easy to useI currently have Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty, but this is water soluble even when set, I also have Revell Plasto, and though reasonable, seems a little powdery, hence car body filler.
Mike, that is what i plan to use, but recently boughtJimmy, I have a big tin of Isopon P38 which I have been using for years. I have totally remodelled the body of. a Bachmann big hauler and extensively reshaped a combine body and roof with no detrimental effects. It's also been slapped on Lima N gauge and a multitude of plastic kits and sheet plasticard. Dunno what the modern stuff is like but mine came with several squeezy pouches of the red hardener stuff.
Max, yes forgot all about that, never used it before, I understand there are several grades, must investigate.The thing about fillers is they work best when they have some surface area to bond to and support them. It you are filling a hole the question is how big and how deep ? If it is a shallow panel with an open hole to fill then you need to add some backing to one side. If the hole is deeper than its circumference then a 2 pack body filler should work well without any further support. In any case you will need to use a filler primer or even a skim filler to finish. Even though general purpose 2 pack body fillers should not shrink they can be coarse. If the hole is deep and is closed at the back watch out for air bubbles forming in the filler, give it a good prod and a stir with a cocktail stick when applying before smoothing over. With small open holes I will sometimes use a thick superglue to fill, with just surface tension holding it in place while it cures and a skim filler to finish both sides.
Then there is always Milliput (white) an ideal modeling 2 pack filler by any other name. Max
I read the title of this thread and thought Jimmy was talking about my mini again!In olden days, when car bodies were like lace curtains in 5 or 6 years, wasn't The Daily Mirror a popular solution for fixing holes;-)
Ben