Clack Valve Problem?

M

Moonraker

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I have a Cheddar Hercules which is now eight years old. It has recently developed a problem with the water pump which is a hand operated device pumping water from the tender into the boiler. I am now getting some back pressure and the pump is not operating properly. I have cleaned out the pump but it feels like the problem is steam coming back down into the tender from the boiler. I'm going to dismantle the clack valve today and clean it but is it possible to get a replacement from anywhere now that Cheddar is no more?

Thanks
Peter
 
Peter, you are right to try and clean the clack valve, use something that is mildly acid such as white vinigar, citric acid, or even toilet limescale cleaner, on both the ball and the body/seat.

I would suggest that things would need to be in a petty bad way for you to need a new clack, but if you should then there are suppliers who can help.

One problem that does sometimes occur with ball clacks is that the ball gains too much clearance and will not seat quickly enough. the answer is to restrict its movement by using s thinner sealing washer on the plug.
 
I'm sure Bob's approach is far better than mine as mine is based on full size practise. Introduce the errant clack to Mr Lump Hammer. :rolf:
 
Neil Robinson said:
I'm sure Bob's approach is far better than mine as mine is based on full size practise. Introduce the errant clack to Mr Lump Hammer. :rolf:
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Neil, Mr Lump Hammer is for after the other stuff hasn't worked! :bigsmile: But I do suggest you take it off the boiler first.:rolf::rolf:
 
Many a time has a full sized clack been clouted with a lump hammer.
 
Moonraker said:
I have a Cheddar Hercules which is now eight years old. It has recently developed a problem with the water pump which is a hand operated device pumping water from the tender into the boiler. I am now getting some back pressure and the pump is not operating properly. I have cleaned out the pump but it feels like the problem is steam coming back down into the tender from the boiler. I'm going to dismantle the clack valve today and clean it but is it possible to get a replacement from anywhere now that Cheddar is no more?

Thanks
Peter
Click to expand...

Don't do too much work first off. If it has not steamed for a while then steam up again and then tip some boiling water over the valve and just tap gently with a toffee hammer, then pump ? this may well clear it. If it still doesn't work properly then just undo the top nut of the clack and one can check if their is any gunge in the chamber that would affect the operation of the clack. If so just clean out with a Q tip wetted with meths and try again. if still no joy then follow the helpful suggestions already supplied.
 
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I never got started on it today as I have the two grandchildren staying and had to supervise Thomas the Tank Engine and friends.
Peter
 
I get this problem on my Regners quite often,all I do is put two drops of oil in the water filler and pump it into the check valve,it's usually an instant cure and won't harm anything.It's probably a sticking ball.
 
Ferrysteam said:
I get this problem on my Regners quite often,all I do is put two drops of oil in the water filler and pump it into the check valve,it's usually an instant cure and won't harm anything.It's probably a sticking ball.
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I'm afarid I have to disagree with Alan on this one, the oil will work it's way into the boiler and will indeed cause harm as it will coat the heating surfaces and reduce the boiler's efficiency considerably over time. It is not removed by draining the boiler. Oil around the ball will help to seal it temporarily, but doesn't remove the initial problem of a build up of solids on the seat.
 
Peter,
I would do the swab out with cotton bud soaked in vinegar, and clean the ball..then use brasso on a new cotton bud and spin onthe seat ..if that doesnt work , post the whole clack to me, I cna remachine the seat and new ball it..

Gordon.
 
bobg said:
Ferrysteam said:
I get this problem on my Regners quite often,all I do is put two drops of oil in the water filler and pump it into the check valve,it's usually an instant cure and won't harm anything.It's probably a sticking ball.
Click to expand...

I'm afarid I have to disagree with Alan on this one, the oil will work it's way into the boiler and will indeed cause harm as it will coat the heating surfaces and reduce the boiler's efficiency considerably over time. It is not removed by draining the boiler. Oil around the ball will help to seal it temporarily, but doesn't remove the initial problem of a build up of solids on the seat.
Click to expand...

Sorry Bob can't agree and with the greatest respect, no residue in the site glass and they steam perfectly.The oil will disperse aventually.
 
Ferrysteam said:
bobg said:
Ferrysteam said:
I get this problem on my Regners quite often,all I do is put two drops of oil in the water filler and pump it into the check valve,it's usually an instant cure and won't harm anything.It's probably a sticking ball.
Click to expand...

I'm afarid I have to disagree with Alan on this one, the oil will work it's way into the boiler and will indeed cause harm as it will coat the heating surfaces and reduce the boiler's efficiency considerably over time. It is not removed by draining the boiler. Oil around the ball will help to seal it temporarily, but doesn't remove the initial problem of a build up of solids on the seat.
Click to expand...

Sorry Bob can't agree and with the greatest respect, no residue in the site glass and they steam perfectly.The oil will disperse aventually.
Click to expand...

The oil gets burnt onto the heating (hottest) surfaces at the water level so will not dispserse, speak to any steam boater, many won't even use lube oil in their cylinders as they condense and re-use their water. You are only using a very small amount so it will take a lot longer to have the effect, but eventually it will. It is not good practice, far better to clean the clacks properly.
 
OK Bob,I admit,I am probably wrong but my Regners seem ok.
 
The clack valve is working fine now. Cleaning the ball and seating did the trick. Thanks for the suggestions.

My next job on my Cheddar Hercules is to respray the boiler. After polishing the boiler bands for the past eight years, the adjacent green paint has worn off. Any views on the best type of paint to use? I am going to give it a good degreasing but do I need an undercoat or primer as well?

Regards
Peter
 
If you're down to the brass, then a good etch primar is best.
 
Thanks. Good article. Although I might vary it a bit to suit local conditions. On a 100 degree F day, the inside of my corrugated iron shed is an oven. So I find a spot outside where there is zero wind and dust and do it there.
Peter
 
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