Cleaning Brass Track

Y

Yardtrain

Registered
Country flag
I have a 2 track 25 by12 elevated oval that I have not used for approximately 10 years. I wish to use it again but it needs cleaning. I run track power. Any hints on cleaning. I did a small section with a 120 grit sanding block.

IMG_3882.jpeg
 
Using any grit of paper will put small groves into the rail attracting more crud from dirty wheels etc. The LGB 50040 is the cleaner of choice as it is a very hard sort of rubber. A few passes of one of these will leave your track surface shiny bright. Massoth do a similar thing and also spare/replacement pads for the block.
www.pshobbiesandmodelshop.co.uk

Massoth 8314301 Track Cleaning Block replacement. Pad

Massoth 8314301 Track Cleaner Replacement rubber.c
www.pshobbiesandmodelshop.co.uk www.pshobbiesandmodelshop.co.uk
 
LGB's own track cleaning blocks are amazing and miraculous in their performance, I would caution against using anything else. (I have no connection to LGB, I wish I did). I guess Massoth would be similar, given the two companies close connections in the past..

David
 
Initially, as has been said, use a cloth and little Meths. - Isopropal Alcohol, may be easier for you to source?
Turn the cloth frequently..

If the line has not run for sometime:
Then, I assume, neither will the loco's? - Clean the tyres, skates, and backs of wheels where any carbon 'bullets' rub to pick up power.

You may find the odd rail-joint needs attention, if oxidation has caused continuity problems..

120 grit is way too coarse, really..
You want to polish, rather than abrade the rail head.

Run something like a Stainz, at a reasonable speed. - This will show where you have any problems..

Once you have run a few laps in either direction, go over the track again with the cloth. - You will be amazed, how dirty your 'clean' track is..

The setup looks interesting, any chance of some more pictures?

PhilP.
 
A after moving house I had no garden and a few years later decided to build an indoor layout using the track that had been outdoors for 10 years. I cleaned the top of the rail using the LGB block as suggested.

As I use track power I need to get the ends of the rails where the rail joiners go clean (I used rail clamps). To get the ends clean I smeared some brown sauce (the sort you put on fried eggs) HP was the variety I used. Left it overnight and in the morning all the dirt came off easily with a scrubbing brush and water.
 
ColinK said:
A after moving house I had no garden and a few years later decided to build an indoor layout using the track that had been outdoors for 10 years. I cleaned the top of the rail using the LGB block as suggested.

As I use track power I need to get the ends of the rails where the rail joiners go clean (I used rail clamps). To get the ends clean I smeared some brown sauce (the sort you put on fried eggs) HP was the variety I used. Left it overnight and in the morning all the dirt came off easily with a scrubbing brush and water.
Click to expand...

It also tastes good!
 
I used a more drastic method, my LGB tracks have been outside for a few years and moving to an internal track I wanted to do a more aggressive job: round sandpaper (I don't know the grit thickness) on a dremel tool. In the attached photo two tracks, before and after the treatment ...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4763.jpg
    IMG_4763.jpg
    89.5 KB · Views: 0
Paul M said:
PhilP test these things, so we don't have to:rofl:
Click to expand...
On a slightly different tack, I have never understood the concept of testing cosmetics on animals, who wants to buy a lipstick with dog hairs stuck all over it.

David
 
David1226 said:
On a slightly different tack, I have never understood the concept of testing cosmetics on animals, who wants to buy a lipstick with dog hairs stuck all over it.

David
Click to expand...
How do you know they were dog hair, they could have come from a pussy cat.
 
borsig1963 said:
I used a more drastic method, my LGB tracks have been outside for a few years and moving to an internal track I wanted to do a more aggressive job: round sandpaper (I don't know the grit thickness) on a dremel tool. In the attached photo two tracks, before and after the treatment ...
Click to expand...
Doing that on the ends below wheel level ok as you will need clean for track power progression. However as said the surface will clean to shiny with an LGB cleaning block. Yes a bit of faff with a few passes required, but no matter how tarnished the block will do the job. You can even get away with not cleaning the ends if you use Massoth track clamps as the screws will lightly bite into the brass making a good power contact. LGB 51010 graphite paste can be used to help keep power continuity on joints, other brands are available.
 
ColinK said:
A after moving house I had no garden and a few years later decided to build an indoor layout using the track that had been outdoors for 10 years. I cleaned the top of the rail using the LGB block as suggested.

As I use track power I need to get the ends of the rails where the rail joiners go clean (I used rail clamps). To get the ends clean I smeared some brown sauce (the sort you put on fried eggs) HP was the variety I used. Left it overnight and in the morning all the dirt came off easily with a scrubbing brush and water.
Click to expand...
Yep, white vinegar, or coca-cola - all mild acids. all do the job nicely
 
As I am waiting for the LGB track cleaning block to arrive. I thougnt about wiping it first. Has anyone tried this on aristocraft brass track. Or maybe brasso ?
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2025-02-12 at 1.04.22 PM.png
    Screenshot 2025-02-12 at 1.04.22 PM.png
    985.4 KB · Views: 0
Don't use Brasso!
It will 'clean' the rail, but it leaves a residue, and is very messy.

PhilP.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top