Recently I bought some second hand coaches, knowing full well tat they were in great need of some TLC. They appear to be some GRS kits, that you stick sections of the coach on perspex, or similar, to make up the coach sides. Unfortunately the person who built them up has managed to get glue on the perspex where its visible. Anyone any ideas of how to clean the plastic, or am I flogging a dead horse? I've tried T Cut and polish, which seems to help. It's a shame because they are nice coaches.
Cleaning Glue
- Thread starter Paul M
- Start date
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
If it is a 'solvent-type' adhesive (very probable) then it will have eaten into the perspex..
The only way round this would be to polish-away the damaged material, until you get down to clear/clean material. - Delicate, and very time-consuming..
If it is really bad, you may have to cut / file the window material away totally, then re glaze the windows.
Thinking laterally, could you fit curtains (to obscure the worst)?
Or perhaps really heavily weather them?
PhilP
The only way round this would be to polish-away the damaged material, until you get down to clear/clean material. - Delicate, and very time-consuming..
If it is really bad, you may have to cut / file the window material away totally, then re glaze the windows.
Thinking laterally, could you fit curtains (to obscure the worst)?
Or perhaps really heavily weather them?
PhilP
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yep, perspex is not the stuff to use - Acrylic sheet or Polycarbonate, doesn't scratch or cloud like perspex.
If the original is acrylic or polycarbonate, then acetone might shift it - the wife's nail polish remover (or yours if you dress up funny at the weekend
)
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
There are some specialist perspex cleaners polishers, however as with anything like this it has to be done in grades, takes time and the products are expensive.
Perspex Polish | Acrylic Polish | Xerapol
Supplier of Perspex polish - perfect for removing scratches from Perspex and acrylic surfaces. Available to buy online - always in stock!
www.theplasticshop.co.uk
TBH I'm not sure what the plastic is,unfortunately removing the widows isn't an option as the clear sheets form the side of the coaches, the moulded side overlays are stuck to this. Or rather me trying to cut the windows out would end in disaster. I'll look into the polish that Jimmy B suggested
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Most plastic/perspex/acrylic polishes are basically a fine abrasive in a suspension. You pays your money you takes your choice. If the "glue marks" are really bad start with a fine grade wet and dry, 1200+, use wet mounted on a flat block. Then finish with T-Cut or a fine grade plastic polish, toothpaste even. In some cases you will end up with a cloudy finish whatever you do.
You can also use flexible abrasive polishing cloths. I have a set from 2000 - 8000 grit and a small rubber block. You do it in stages. That's why I suggest you start with a coarser grade (in relative tetms), as the solvent that has caused the marks will have "swelled" that area and it needs flattering back.
You might want to try to separate the outer panels from their transparent boxes and remake them. I find an Xacto (or similar) chisel blade and fat handle can work wonders, with care. Start where the top and bottom beading on the outer panels connect and hang from and locate to the "box" edges. Pray the builder didn't do a good job with the glue/solvent. I have 3 GRS L&B coaches that use the same system to build as their "freelance" coach kits. The panels are moulded styrene, not resin. the boxes cut from sheet styrene, not acrylic. Some panels, like ducketts, were vac moulded styrene. Max
P.S. Just had a thought - You could rub back with 1200 grade then paint a coat of Johnson Klear onto the surface. The product is self levelling and basically fills the finely abraded surface. It's a trick used to correct less than perfect paint finishes and seal in decals for an all over glossy finish.
You can also use flexible abrasive polishing cloths. I have a set from 2000 - 8000 grit and a small rubber block. You do it in stages. That's why I suggest you start with a coarser grade (in relative tetms), as the solvent that has caused the marks will have "swelled" that area and it needs flattering back.
You might want to try to separate the outer panels from their transparent boxes and remake them. I find an Xacto (or similar) chisel blade and fat handle can work wonders, with care. Start where the top and bottom beading on the outer panels connect and hang from and locate to the "box" edges. Pray the builder didn't do a good job with the glue/solvent. I have 3 GRS L&B coaches that use the same system to build as their "freelance" coach kits. The panels are moulded styrene, not resin. the boxes cut from sheet styrene, not acrylic. Some panels, like ducketts, were vac moulded styrene. Max
P.S. Just had a thought - You could rub back with 1200 grade then paint a coat of Johnson Klear onto the surface. The product is self levelling and basically fills the finely abraded surface. It's a trick used to correct less than perfect paint finishes and seal in decals for an all over glossy finish.
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JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Works great on dull marble tiles.
I'm pretty sure the coaches are GRS L&B kits. Unfortunately, whilst few of the panels my be removable without too much damage, there's a lot that aren't, and as I'm a but clumsy at the best of times..... I'll look into trying to polish the marks out as suggested
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
The L&B went to the Southern Railway - so imagine what standards were like in the 40s and 50s - clean windows? Only occasionally
While not wishing to denigrate my favourite railway company / BR region, times were hard and railways were struggling from the mauling and excess use (without much investment) of WW2.When we took a train holiday to Italy, the last leg was on a Swiss train from Basel to Lake Maggiore with windows that were so mucky you could barely see out
L&B closed 1935 so possibly pretty clean to end of line.
Only occasionally
When we took a train holiday to Italy, the last leg was on a Swiss train from Basel to Lake Maggiore with windows that were so mucky you could barely see out
There is that option, or as someone else suggested, make all the windows opaqueThe L&B went to the Southern Railway - so imagine what standards were like in the 40s and 50s - clean windows? Only occasionally
When we took a train holiday to Italy, the last leg was on a Swiss train from Basel to Lake Maggiore with windows that were so mucky you could barely see out
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Or just misty, dirty, unloved
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Just a quick update on this
What I'm up against.
After trying several suggested methods, I came up with a mixture of T Cut, Autosomal metal polish and a bit of wood, plus of course elbow grease and patience.
After some effort, I ended up with this
Obviously not perfect, but I don't think it's too bad at usual viewing distances, and matches the poor paintwork of the rest of the coach.
What I'm up against.
After trying several suggested methods, I came up with a mixture of T Cut, Autosomal metal polish and a bit of wood, plus of course elbow grease and patience.
After some effort, I ended up with this
Obviously not perfect, but I don't think it's too bad at usual viewing distances, and matches the poor paintwork of the rest of the coach.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Not a bad job though
Done nicely, now looks like a bit of mist from heavy breathing in the coach by over excited train spotters.
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
Or as they're known in the US, foamers....
That would probably be easier to clean from windows! We used to call em DAA’s on the Southern Region of BR, really bad cases were DAFA’s Daft As ……..