Concrete station building

nygma

Registered
I wanted a project with is rather simple in terms of skill set and tools required. I knew that buildings are something I would rather not spend money on, so I decided to build one. To be close to prototypical I decided to build from concrete. Also I wanted the process that is repeatable in case I would like to build more of the same type. After all how hard can this be?
I decided to do the following: build a box as the outer contour of the building. Build a smaller box which will go inside. Space between the two will form the base of the building and the walls. I decided to place the two 3 cm apart. I also got some 3 cm wide timber which was cut to short pieces and placed between the boxes. These create a void in the cast for window and door openings. These window and door placeholders and fixed to the outer box with screws from the outside. By unscrewing them I can disassemble the mold leaving the placeholders in the concrete to be push out from the opening.
All this is reusable as I can assemble the mold again and cast another building. Also if I fix the placeholders into different position (and different sizes) I will get a building with the same overall dimensions, but still a different design.
First stop was to the DIY store to get some ready mix concrete, offcuts of wood, some timber and screws. The first model is going to be HEV class 3 station building which was used in many branch lines around Hungary and the neighboring countries. Plans for this building is available online from vasutallomasok.hu. Scaling down the drawings to 1:32 took just an hour. Each elevation fits on an A3 size paper.
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It took a few hours to cut down the sides with a jigsaw, chop up the timber for door and window openings, make everything up and screw the whole together. I drilled the holes for the screws to make sure I don't break the timber. I was not very precise with drilling them and some of the window openings are off from vertical, but concrete isn't a precise material either, so I am hoping that I can hide these imperfections later.
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This is the outer box with the placeholders in place. The one on the bottom will create a hole in the base for electrical wiring.
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And the inner box in the shape of the roof.
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Finally the first batch on concrete mixed, ready for pouring into the mold. The inner box is not inserted yet, I wanted to see how the concrete spreads on the base. Before casting I painted the entire mold with cooking oil as release agent. That was my best guess, and there was nothing else around.
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And finally, all concrete in. I had a 25kg bag and only a few kilos left. So this is going to be a heavy building. Maybe in the future I should think about going down to 2.5 cm thickness. My son did not help with the project, but was there to take credit. While the walls were cast I used a watery mix making sure that the concrete flows into the cavities easily. I tried shaking the entire mold as much as I could also to help this. Finally, when it was up to the sides I used a piece steel rod to vibrate the concrete. That's all I could do. Since the walls are already 3 cm thick I thought it gives it enough structural strength and I do not need steel in the structure. Will see.
To complete the triangular shape of the end walls, I prepared a final and drier mix. It was hand form against the mold and stayed like this without any further support. I though this is going to be the most difficult part of the build, but it was easy.
When it was all done I left home only returned a couple of hours later. When I checked the mold I saw that screws let go and the mold opened on two sides to about 0.5 cm. The screws I used were just too short and broke free. The concrete was still wet. I poured more water on it, push the sides back and fastened with a longer screw. I used an electric screwdriver which has enough torque to bring the sides together again. Fingers crossed the concrete is going to heal and forge completely after all. I am going to wait for a day before I break the mold.
 
Crikey Csongor, the little feller is growing up fast!

Looking forward to seeing the finished building. :thumbup:
 
There is a fellow over here that had done some very nice buildings in concrete. I'll have to look up his pictures and post them. I think his railway is "The Woodlands Railway". There would be nothing more permanent or unique than concrete structures. Looking forward to seeing it after the forms are removed.
Here's a piece from Mylargescale.com I found. Doesn't show the buildings as clearly as I would have hoped.
 
One thing for sure. A concrete building will be nigh-invulerable. Godzilla could kick and break a toe.
 
I think the correct term is catastrophic failure. This is what happened when I opened the mold. First I taken the sides off. At first glance it was looking OK.
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Close up of the concrete next to a window opening. It all looks good.
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Close up near the side where the mold opened up. Less promising.
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Outer mold taken completely off. Still looks solid and in one piece.
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This is after taking out the inner core. I had to shake it to loosen up and the only reason I could pull it out, because the sides cracked all over the place.
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Disintegration only starts at this point. As I removed the window and door placeholders the whole thing came apart. I new that it is beyond repair so I was not exactly gentle.
My first attempt was not even good enough for a ruin.
Conclusion:
1) Wait at least a week before disassembling of the mold.
2) Do not screw the inner mold together. Clap them to the outer sides so it can be taken down in pieces. Much less stress on the structure.
3) Add some steel reinforcement to the concrete.
 
The blocks that you used for the windows and doors have expanded as they absorbed moisture from the concrete. Even if you wait a week before disassembly they may well expand after the initial set of the concrete and so crack the main structure.
Next time you could try covering them with cling film before casting, and perhaps make them slightly tapered for easier release. Or maybe make them out of plastic?

As far as reinforcement is concerned you could try chicken wire.
 
I'd call it a learning curve, and I would say for a first attempt, you are a long way forward.
May I add a few suggestions to your list :
4) Taper the door and window placements slightly - less than the poor sketch below, but you get the idea
5) Paint every surface of the mould which touches the concrete thoroughly - the placements probably swelled in place, and it will give you a better finish.
5a) After you have removed the moulds, leave it a few days before removing the placements.
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Yes, try to put some kind of wire in the concrete. Even if it's only Lather's wire. Run horizontal and vertical pieces at every point possible. Did you oil the forms? If you can get a hold of what we call "Melamine" pronounced mel - a - mean. It's nothing more than paticle board with a very thin layer of plastic laminate (Formica) laminated to both sides. No need to oil Melamine. If you use this for your form work, they will release from the concrete readily. Finally, vibrate the forms once they have been filled with the concrete. A palm sander is an excellent tool for this task. Hold it against the formwork on each side as you place the concrete. Don't try to fill the forms completely in one pour. Fill them on all sides about one third, vibrate, place the next third in, vibrate, then the last third and vibrate once more. As you vibrate, be aware of the condition of the forms. It is possible to vibrate them apart.
 
I'd suggest too that the inner form should be collabsible inwards with out the need to get tooooo vigourous with it. Maybe make it so that its held together with wedges so that it can be easily dissmantled in vitro as it were.... If you were going to make a few of these and it may be workable if you made a "basic" bulding and then made additional "modules" or home extensions to make this into virtually anything you wanted I'd be making long term moulds from fibreglass that would be held together with clamps. Also I'd let the concrete Cure for at least 48 hours in a warm environment before stripping the moulds.... If you use wire reinforcing make sure you use galvanised wire; reason thin concrete is going to allow moisture into the surface and plain steel will at some later stage rust and cause the concrete to split aka Concrete Cancer....

But its a novel idea, I like it. Its giving me ideas along the track of making buildings using moulds from expanding polyurethane foam...... Pour in the liquid and let it foam up and fill the mould space, allow to cure and presto a lightweight foam building ready to be detailed.... You're onto something here...
This is the foam Im blithering about.....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Demon-Tw...arParts_SM&hash=item337198c92d#ht_1778wt_1330
 
Thanks everyone for the comments. I will get some more concrete today and try again. I will definitely leave if for more time to cure and make the inner form collapsible. I will also use some wires, most probably some galvanized fence wire.
 
My second attempt of a concrete station building was not flawless either. Certainly I made improvements. I made the inner box collapsible. Instead of screwing it to the timber post inside it was held to the outer box with clamps. I left a short timber on the bottom to keep it from folding inwards at the bottom. I left the concrete in the mold for one week.
After taking the outer box off it was still difficult to take the inner box out. That short timber at the bottom kept the sides firmly against the concrete. I guess the MDF board expanded and wedged in tightly. Anyway, after some force I was able to get all of them out. Again, the structure has cracked but much less than before. I also added some steel wire which probably helped. I mixed cement with some water and filled up the cracks. I left if for another two days. Now I am able to lift it by the window openings and it all holds together.
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After all this still looks like the original building and the plaster will help to blend in my patch work. I think I will finish this building, but I will not use the same method again. I will still create the box from wood, but all the internal placeholders will be made the styrofoam. I can just cut them out and discard them. Much easier than knocking the wood blocks out.
 
Its a difficult job to cast in one piece like you are doing. I wouldn't use MDF or Melamine unless you can totally protect it from moisture.

Why don't you use polystyrene or similar insulation material - cetainly for infills like doors and windows and the central core?

Anyway, what you have got there will skim up nicely - as long as you allow the casting to cure for about three weeks - otherwise it be hard to work as the render/skim will dry out too quickly.

Good luck - and I look forward to seeing the finished station:thumbup:

Sorry - I didn't read the last paragraph below the pictures.!!!!!!!!!
 
One thing I did not see mentioned was, In full size concrete casting it is usual to coat the former with an oil so that the concrete will not stick to the timber, if this has not been done that is probably why you have had probe's taking the shuttering off. In the past I have cast & striped full size complex cols in less than 24 hours, but it's not that easy so for you 7 days would be good. Another way would be to cast each wall flat and then fix the sections together, If you look up "tilt up slab on the net "you should see what I am talking about. That way you could make lots of buildings from a small kit of parts.
 
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