Couplings - realism v operability?

ge_rik

ge_rik

British narrow gauge (esp. Southwold and W&LLR)
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I would like to replace my LGB hook & loop couplings with something more realistic BUT ....... although hooks and loops are unrealistic they are cheap, simple and they work on the undulations of my track (provided all stock has a hook at each end).

As my line is a fictional UK based NG railway, I'd like to change to some sort of centre buffer chopper system. I'm not that keen on the hook and chain approach adopted by most 32mm modellers as I do a lot of shunting and stock movement. The Accucraft couplings look good but at £4.60 a pair they are prohibitively expensive for the amount of stock I have - and they don't alllow close-coupling. I've experimented with Binnie Carmarthen couplings but they can't cope with my undulating track.

I'm considering making my own chopper couplings and have started experimenting but scratchbuilding in brass is fiddly and time-consuming. I just wondered if anyone has already trodden this (or a similar) path and can suggest a short-cut.

Has anyone had experience of making brass etches for example?

Rik
 
Tenmille do 2 types of chopper one of which allows for more vertical movement.

If you want realistic why not use link and pin couples as there are several makes available and they allow for close coupling. Reaching in to lift out the pin can be a fiddle but as the link is captive you can't drop it like a loose chain.
 
You mention shunting. How do you uncouple your wagons, manually or remotely? If maunually, then link and pin might be an option. If remotely, then hook and loop are still your best option. I don't notice the hook and loop couplers on my own rolling stock. I too dabbled in knuckles. They are not reliable on my track, which is fairly level and laid well on ballast. I have resigned myself to the fact that if I want to operate my trains and change cars at sidings and such, hook and loop couplings are my best friend.
 
funandtrains said:
Tenmille do 2 types of chopper one of which allows for more vertical movement.
If you want realistic why not use link and pin couples as there are several makes available and they allow for close coupling. Reaching in to lift out the pin can be a fiddle but as the link is captive you can't drop it like a loose chain.
Click to expand...

Tenmille are very nice looking but at £7.00 a pair even more expensive than Accucraft - a pity.
The link and pin idea seems attractive - might explore that a little further.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
funandtrains said:
Tenmille do 2 types of chopper one of which allows for more vertical movement.
If you want realistic why not use link and pin couples as there are several makes available and they allow for close coupling. Reaching in to lift out the pin can be a fiddle but as the link is captive you can't drop it like a loose chain.
Click to expand...

Tenmille are very nice looking but at £7.00 a pair even more expensive than Accucraft - a pity.
The link and pin idea seems attractive - might explore that a little further.

Rik
Click to expand...

There are quite a few makes of link and pin available in brass, white metal and plastic, some are the pocket type others are slotted. They also very in size consideralbly from 7/8 through 16mm, 1:20.3, 1:22.5 and 1:24 scales. There is a Sri lankan manufacturer who sells plastic 16mm scale pocket type link and pin coiuplers quite cheaply but they look quite big with some other makes. The LGB plastic link and pins cost even more than most of the brass types!
 
ge_rik said:
tramcar trev said:
look here, someone made some from a cuphead bolt....http://www.gscalecentral.net/tm?m=170262&high=tram+couplers
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Thanks Trev.

I had been considering cutting down a bolt as the basis for a coupling - I think I may need some sort of swivel as some of my curves are a bit tight. Worth a few experiments though..........

Rik
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yes Rik if I want to use the ones I made I have to use a "long" link to allow negoitiating sharp curves.
 
tramcar trev said:
...use a "long" link to allow negoitiating sharp curves.
Click to expand...
I've struggled along this route in SM32, trying to improve on the loose chain system.
If you want to shunt, ie propel wagons around sharp/reverse curves, long links can cause the "push" to be sideways.
This brings it's own problems. It's quite awkward unlocking buffers with a rigid link!
Still not found the panacea.
 
funandtrains said:
There is a Sri lankan manufacturer who sells plastic 16mm scale pocket type link and pin coiuplers quite cheaply but they look quite big with some other makes.
Click to expand...
I fitted these to a rake of Coopercraft slate wagons.
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They are a little on the large side, but they make the (weighted) wagons usable instead of ornamental.
 
Has the supplier got a www site Rob?
 
Logging and other industrial lines soved problems by having varying lengths of links some quite long timber of steel rods!
 
There are quiteb a few US white metal or brass link and pin couplers available which are much smaller. There are also some British and German makers. Cheddar locos used to come with link and pin couplers as standard, clearly they thought they were better than chains. The US accucraft industrial locos and wagons also have link and pin couplers as standard.
 
I use a dental instrument (descaler thing) to unhook chain link from accucraft couplings with the choppers removed with more ease than the original choppers.
Apparently heating the chain up and dunking it in engine oil will chemically blacken it, so Im told.
Quite a few other centre buffers and hooks out there, I bought a few accurcraft ones but not going use them anymore as they need about 4-5 links and they're costly.
Derailments are such a pain in the ars* that I prefer to have loose couplings, hopefully once theyre blackened Ill have the compromise.
 
I use the bachmann couplers because they are less expensive. I just modify them by removing the plastic pin that holds the knuckle on and replace it with a nut and bolt. After a while the plastic pin wears and causes the coupler to hang low and become loose.
I also like ozark minutres link and pin. Link and pin is my favarite but I dont use them because they can be a little tricky getting them hooked up especially in the cold and if you have large hands.
 
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