DC Power question

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Marklincs

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So what is the risks of having a main line loop as such always powered at a good travel speed for the trains

But then the Station siding will have isolated section using the yellow track breaks for example and that section is then powered by a 1amp power supply thats set to a slower speed probably 1/3 of the main line speed or slower.

but when the train passes over the join its going for a moment to get power from 2 different sources so will this be an issue ?
 
Software Tools said:
As long as the polarity on both sides of the insulated joint is the same, there won't be a problem.
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As long as the polarity on both sides of the insulated joint is the same, there probably won't be a problem.

I would say..
It will depend, a little, on the design of the output stage, of the smaller supply.

PhilP
 
Marklincs said:
So what is the risks of having a main line loop as such always powered at a good travel speed for the trains

But then the Station siding will have isolated section using the yellow track breaks for example and that section is then powered by a 1amp power supply thats set to a slower speed probably 1/3 of the main line speed or slower.

but when the train passes over the join its going for a moment to get power from 2 different sources so will this be an issue ?
Click to expand...
I get where you're coming from ..... and like Software Tools Software Tools and PhilP PhilP have said, if the polarity is correct there shouldn't be a problem. Visibly there may be a slight kick, and that sort of thing puts pressure on the drive train, but I would expect that, as an operator, you'd be looking to try to match the speed at the insulation point to make the train run smoothly. If you achieve that, then there's likely to be no problem at all.
 
my last layout was divided into independent power sections.
continuing polarities.
each section had two to four motors running simultaneous. (LGB-Bühler and/or Playmo) (two trains, Stainz plus powertender)
supply per section was by two different smaller LGB transformer/regulators, one H0-Fleischmann transformer/regulator, two playmobil transformer/regulators, and two PC-powerpacks with LGB outdoors regulators. (the last two for the long and steep ramps connecting the different levels)

(transformer/regulators, that could not move four motors were: Bachmann starter, Faller E-train, and various smaller H0 thingies)

so, the only two things all these powerpacks had in common, was being DC and having the same direction of the polarity. i never had power problems.

in my experience, a good LGB starter powerpack should move up to five Bühler motors at 10 to 12 V speed without any problems.

trafos1.JPG

trafos19.JPG
 
Software Tools said:
That is definitely not my experience with any starter set power packs from the last ~2 decades. Two motors is the limit at lowish speeds.
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maybe, that: "from the last ~2 decades" makes the difference.
i have the 5002 (from 1970, first or 2nd starterpack they had) and the 50080 (i have forgotten, from when (maybe from 1982))
 
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korm kormsen said:
have the 5002 (from 1970, first or 2nd starterpack they had) and the 50080 (i have forgotten, from when (maybe from 1982))
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They just don't make them like that anymore..... not necessarily a bad thing as they newer types lighter and generally "store away" better than the earlier ones, which is quite important for the starter-set market.

It took LGB quite a while to come up with any power supply rated at more than ~ 2 Amps.

IMG_2098.jpeg
 
Software Tools said:
They just don't make them like that anymore..... not necessarily a bad thing as they newer types lighter and generally "store away" better than the earlier ones, which is quite important for the starter-set market.

It took LGB quite a while to come up with any power supply rated at more than ~ 2 Amps.

View attachment 337565
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I used a 5006 and 50l7 for some time before I went DCC and found them to be near perfect for their day.
 
I would just use the single large supply and use a resistor 5 ohm 5 watt to feed power between the main line and the isolated station block. Another Kiss solution, less wiring.
 
Software Tools said:
That is definitely not my experience with any starter set power packs from the last ~2 decades. Two motors is the limit at lowish speeds.
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I would also agree with you on how many loco's can be run with a starter set transformer. In his pictures I do not see any of the light gray power packs that I am used to using. If these are not pictures of power packs in storage, then he must be pretty sharp to know which controller to use at the right time, seeing hoe many different types he has there.
 
zman50 said:
In his pictures I do not see any of the light gray power packs that I am used to using.
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as i am living in the 220/230 Volt world, i use the red LGB packs. (the two outer ones in my first pic)

zman50 said:
If these are not pictures of power packs in storage, then he must be pretty sharp to know which controller to use at the right time ...
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not sharp, but cheap.
i had an automated layout with six powerblocks/sections (planned were eight) - six trains, starting each other, using the LGB-epl system (magnets, reeds & switchmotors + add-on)
the controllers stayed at their given speed. slowdown and speed up around stops were made with diodes connecting 1ft track pieces.

living in the backwoods of a third-world country - next DHL or UPS station 300 miles away, next hobbyshop in another country - to buy something from the states or from europe costs me an additional 70 to 90% for transport.
so "make do with what you can grab" is the password. that's, why i use such a wild assembly of powerpacks and controllers.
that means, i can not have perfect results, but i'm content with "good enuff". trial and error to find out, what works, is fun by it self too.
 
korm kormsen said:
as i am living in the 220/230 Volt world, i use the red LGB packs. (the two outer ones in my first pic)


not sharp, but cheap.
i had an automated layout with six powerblocks/sections (planned were eight) - six trains, starting each other, using the LGB-epl system (magnets, reeds & switchmotors + add-on)
the controllers stayed at their given speed. slowdown and speed up around stops were made with diodes connecting 1ft track pieces.

living in the backwoods of a third-world country - next DHL or UPS station 300 miles away, next hobbyshop in another country - to buy something from the states or from europe costs me an additional 70 to 90% for transport.
so "make do with what you can grab" is the password. that's, why i use such a wild assembly of powerpacks and controllers.
that means, i can not have perfect results, but i'm content with "good enuff". trial and error to find out, what works, is fun by it self too.
Click to expand...
 
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