DJB whistle remote controlled...success!
- Thread starter skycap
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skycap
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Hi Jon D
What I discovered is the following while doing the install for the Billy. Firstly, the batteries under the roof need to be moved or the whistle components won't fit. I initially installed a micro receiver (Hitec Minoma) and small LiFe battery in the compartment under the loco chasis and a small servo under the cab flooring after drilling a small hole in the floorboard for a pull string to activate the whistle. This set up did not work. I was unable to secure the servo well enough using double sided foam tape and then regular epoxy to get enough movement of the whistle lever to activate whistle. . A better, less cramped installation and mounting method worked as follows. I built the Roundhouse 4 wheeled tender and installed the switch, receiver and battery in the tender. Access to everything is easily accomplished by lifting the coal load. I soldered a small brass plate to the banjo fitting/whistle lever unit and have the servo arm directly pushing the lever. I soldered a small plate on top of the whistle lever to provide a larger area for the servo arm to strike. I found the servo must be attached rigidly, double sided tape did not hold in the high heat environment nor did regular epoxy which weakened with the boiler heat. I glued the servo on the mounting plate using JB weld epoxy which can withstand up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit once fully cured after 24 hours of curing. Additionally I secured the servo by using a copper wire tie wrap and 2 miniature cable ties around the servo and brass plate I soldered earlier. The first attempt with the JB weld glue alone did not work sine it had cured 15 hours but not the 24 hour cure time and loosened under the heat. I hope this might help. I connect 2 servo leads and a power switch lead (color coded with my wife's nail polish) together between the tender and locomotive when running. It is working perfectly now after many attempts to get the correct set up.
Thanks for the update on your install. Problem for me with Jack is that I have installed the Batteries in the Cab and do NOT want a Tender. Not sure but are you saying that the Whistle needs a separate Servo? On mine I have used a Spoerer setup and have spare Switches on the Sender and spare points on the reciever.
JonD
JonD
skycap
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I am using a standard radio control set up. I have my whistle being operated by a single servo tied to what would be the elevator channel on an rc airplane. Moving the stick downward on the right hand side of the transmitter activates the servo and blows the whistle. I use a Hitec Aurora 9 transmitter with their tiny full range receiver on 2.4 Mhz. It is possible to use any trailing rolling stock to create more room. The tender looks nice and is prototypical so I don't have an issue with that. If everything could mount easily in the locomotive I would use that option first.
I am using his TX23 and one of his Receivers. Other than that it is a normal RC Setup using the existing Servos as supplied onnthe Roundhouse Locomotives. Link to the site. Real benefit is that you can drive the Loco one handed. Essential for real Operating when you have Simplifier, Wagon Cards and Uncoupling Tool to manipulate. The Aircraft Type RC Setups are just hopeless for such a system. Mt TX23 has 2 Spare Outputs so one will probably drive the Whistle just fine. If I get a Whustle I will possibly experiment with the Push Button to start with. He has not yet got his Web Site upgraded to show the TX23. There is an even newer one out with much better range.
http://www.peterspoerermodelengineers.com/90275/info.php?p=2
JonD
skycap
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Thanks for the information. I just run in one direction using throttle on a grade and the curves so I am ok with a standard set up. I know I have
much more range than ever needed on my small track. I do have reverse but seldom use it.