ESU 5XL auto uncoupling with Massoth uncouplers

[bruno.degraeve]

hello

For the conversion of an older LGB 2085 green mallet, I stripped out all old electronics and replaced electronics with an ESU 5XL. I got a new set of Massoth Decoders (connected to AUX7 and AUX8) which are working fine after I configured it via the Lokprogrammer.

Now, I wanted to use the auto coupling functionality of the ESU decoder, but wonder which 4 settings I should apply; and I suppose it must be properly configured in the Function Mapping as well.

I'm sure somebody else did this job and could share their settings and/or experiences?

many thanks, Bruno

 

[palmerston]

Ive just watched a video on Utube from your fellow countryman MaximDeDonder which also is a member of this forum. I recall there are some settings in the Lokprogrammer which needs to be set. Just try them. if not ok then just undo these.

i dont have an Lokprogrammer jet, but want to funtionmap F23 coupler en F24 coupler with the coupling sound to F4 which is a lot easier to reach on my cheapo handheld (button) Maybe i try these on my simple CV settings but with Lokprogrammer it must be a lot easier.

 

[bruno.degraeve]

Here's how I configured the setup:

In the Function Mapping, F6 controls the front uncoupler on AUX7, F7 the one at the back, linked to AUX8. Misleading might be the "reverse" on F6. The logic is that you have to drive backwards to uncouple the Loc.


The physical controls for AUX7 and AUX8 were set like:

The automatic uncoupling settings were configured like:

 

[bruno.degraeve]

Here's how I configured the setup:

In the Function Mapping, F6 controls the front uncoupler on AUX7, F7 the one at the back, linked to AUX8. Misleading might be the "reverse" on F6. The logic is that you have to drive backwards to uncouple the Loc.
View attachment 295484

The physical controls for AUX7 and AUX8 were set like:
View attachment 295485
The automatic uncoupling settings were configured like:
View attachment 295486

you see the uncoupling in action at around minute 04:08:

 

[idlemarvel]

You do like your "bells and whistles" don't you Bruno! Nicely done and well explained.

 

[LGB333]

hello

For the conversion of an older LGB 2085 green mallet, I stripped out all old electronics and replaced electronics with an ESU 5XL. I got a new set of Massoth Decoders (connected to AUX7 and AUX8) which are working fine after I configured it via the Lokprogrammer.

Now, I wanted to use the auto coupling functionality of the ESU decoder, but wonder which 4 settings I should apply; and I suppose it must be properly configured in the Function Mapping as well.

I'm sure somebody else did this job and could share their settings and/or experiences?

many thanks, Bruno

Hi Bruno - Your end product's video looks and sounds great. I've installed ESU 5XL sound decoders in several of the LGB 2085D steamers. I install a 40mm speaker inside the firebox and mount/seal it with epoxy putty.......no need to use a rear baffle on it since the boiler provides that effect. It appears you removed the lead weight from the motor block and installed two speakers.......where did you put the weight? I assume you used a Massoth Round Boiler DCC Pulsed Smoker? Lastly, what DCC system are you using?

 

[bruno.degraeve]

Hi Bruno - Your end product's video looks and sounds great. I've installed ESU 5XL sound decoders in several of the LGB 2085D steamers. I install a 40mm speaker inside the firebox and mount/seal it with epoxy putty.......no need to use a rear baffle on it since the boiler provides that effect. It appears you removed the lead weight from the motor block and installed two speakers.......where did you put the weight? I assume you used a Massoth Round Boiler DCC Pulsed Smoker? Lastly, what DCC system are you using?

hi Thomas,

Thank you for the kind feedback. As I installed "flickering" firebox component (mXion DFM from MD Electronics), there was no room left to put a speaker in the firebox. The 1st owner has put a small speaker in the cabine, right on the floor, but as I had to redo the entire engine, I removed it.
Attached are some pictures taken during the project. As you can see, I used the watertanks to fill it up with lead weights (thanks to my uncle for providing me these spare parts).
Since I used an ESU 5XL decoder, I went for the big smoke generator from the same brand (ESU 54679).
Lastly, all light bulbs (5v) were replaced by LED lights with integrated resistor (they support 3v -> 24v). You just cut the two metal wires and make the legs long enough as the light bulb legs. Put it directly in the 2pin holder (you might need to switch it regarding the minus and plus). But that's it. And as the light is yellowish, it fits well for steam locomotives.

About 10y ago, I bought a second-hand Lenz DCC central (LZV100 and LH100 hand controller), but a few years ago, I switched that for the Lenz LZV200 and remote hand controller (Lenz 60103 SET101-R Starterset with LZV200, LH101-R, LTM101). It's a very reliable system and some of my hand controllers or other components are almost 20y old but still do work.

I hope I shared you some ideas ;-)

 

[bruno.degraeve]

hi Thomas,

Thank you for the kind feedback. As I installed "flickering" firebox component (mXion DFM from MD Electronics), there was no room left to put a speaker in the firebox. The 1st owner has put a small speaker in the cabine, right on the floor, but as I had to redo the entire engine, I removed it.
Attached are some pictures taken during the project. As you can see, I used the watertanks to fill it up with lead weights (thanks to my uncle for providing me these spare parts).
Since I used an ESU 5XL decoder, I went for the big smoke generator from the same brand (ESU 54679).
Lastly, all light bulbs (5v) were replaced by LED lights with integrated resistor (they support 3v -> 24v). You just cut the two metal wires and make the legs long enough as the light bulb legs. Put it directly in the 2pin holder (you might need to switch it regarding the minus and plus). But that's it. And as the light is yellowish, it fits well for steam locomotives.

About 10y ago, I bought a second-hand Lenz DCC central (LZV100 and LH100 hand controller), but a few years ago, I switched that for the Lenz LZV200 and remote hand controller (Lenz 60103 SET101-R Starterset with LZV200, LH101-R, LTM101). It's a very reliable system and some of my hand controllers or other components are almost 20y old but still do work.

I hope I shared you some ideas ;-)

some additional pictures

 

[LGB333]

some additional pictures

Bruno - Thanks for sharing the additional photos. That's a lot of weight you added to the water tanks, more than the original. Did you increase the weight of your engine for some reason?

I also see you installed a pulse generator into the motor block.......does it provide the pulses to the ESS 5XL or to the smoker? I find the 5XL's electronic pulses to be excellent for input to the Massoth pulsed smokers since it's based on the chuff sounds produced by the decoder.......no need for the extra work to install the pulse generator in the motor block. In fact, a couple years ago I tested the factory installed pulse generator in a customer's LGB 51052 Forney Steamer connected to an ESU 5XL and found it worked good except the coasting feature stopped working when the engine would slow down. Does your setup still have the engine coasting feature where the chuffs stop while slows down?

Here are a couple photos of the 2085D ESU 5XL install I did for a customer last year. I decided to not use the ESU DR Steam Sound File since it doesn't have that many sound features their newer sound files, only about 8 F Keys functions instead of the usual 30 functions The lead weight had oxidized so I had to clean and spray coated it. And of course, the motor blocks had to be converted from 3-pin to 4-pin functionality and I also installed new motors.

Regarding your photo below of the speaker installation, I suggest you seal the gaps entirely around the speaker frame with epoxy putty, both speakers. If you can't position a speaker to be totally flat without any air gaps around the base, the epoxy putty can seal and even hold a speaker in place like the one I installed in my photo. This produces the best sound fidelity.

 

[bruno.degraeve]

Bruno - Thanks for sharing the additional photos. That's a lot of weight you added to the water tanks, more than the original. Did you increase the weight of your engine for some reason?

I also see you installed a pulse generator into the motor block.......does it provide the pulses to the ESS 5XL or to the smoker? I find the 5XL's electronic pulses to be excellent for input to the Massoth pulsed smokers since it's based on the chuff sounds produced by the decoder.......no need for the extra work to install the pulse generator in the motor block. In fact, a couple years ago I tested the factory installed pulse generator in a customer's LGB 51052 Forney Steamer connected to an ESU 5XL and found it worked good except the coasting feature stopped working when the engine would slow down. Does your setup still have the engine coasting feature where the chuffs stop while slows down?

Here are a couple photos of the 2085D ESU 5XL install I did for a customer last year. I decided to not use the ESU DR Steam Sound File since it doesn't have that many sound features their newer sound files, only about 8 F Keys functions instead of the usual 30 functions The lead weight had oxidized so I had to clean and spray coated it. And of course, the motor blocks had to be converted from 3-pin to 4-pin functionality and I also installed new motors.

Regarding your photo below of the speaker installation, I suggest you seal the gaps entirely around the speaker frame with epoxy putty, both speakers. If you can't position a speaker to be totally flat without any air gaps around the base, the epoxy putty can seal and even hold a speaker in place like the one I installed in my photo. This produces the best sound fidelity.
View attachment 309753 View attachment 309754
View attachment 309755

hi Thomas,

Thanks for sharing your work. As I still had a pule generator laying around, I wanted to give it a try. Problem is that on top of my head, I now cannot remember if it added a lot of added value after all. The ESU decoders manage the chuffs very well on their own. Honestly, I would need to put the loc back on the tracks to check if the coasting feature stops the chuffs when slowing down.

There was no particular reason to increase the weight of the loc. As the lead was given by my uncle and there was enough space for it, it all went into it. It will weight a bit more than the original but that's better to pull some wagons on steeper tracks.

The picture of the 2 speakers doesn't show the end result. On the left rectangular speaker, I also closed the sides and sealed it with hot glue. The same for the dome I added on the right speaker. I can tell you, with both enabled on full volume, you need to make sure your neighbours are not around ;-) Thanks for the suggestions regarding the air gaps. That's something I'll check again when I open the engine.

For the motor blocks, I managed to "clean" the engines but in the end I also replaced the 2 Bühler engines as I didn't trust the reliability of the oled engines. One was even getting a bit too high temperature. I also changed some wheels as the rods were completely used and all the nickel was gone.

all the best, Bruno