Fitting Massoth DCC to 3 pin Corpet

Mike in Devon

Mike in Devon

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Hi folks

I intend to fit a Massoth XLS to yet another LGB Corpet. This time however I have a problem. It has a 3 pin motor block not a four pin one. I have been given one method but it looks very scary and complicated so I am hoping some of you out there can point me to an alternative that I can understand and use.(pictures a big help too if poss!)

Mike at the end of a sunny Devon day
Rain due tomorrow so back to the workbench
 
I'm not familiar with the 3 pin Corpet gearbox, but I have done the 3 pin 2040 crocodile and 2 of the 2085D Mallett tank engines previously and they were straight forward to do, effectively soldering a wire to one of the motor terminals, isolating the terminal with either heatshrink or tape. one of them needed a small shave to the plastic to accommodate the insulation and a hole drilled in the top of the gearbox to allow the wire to come out, but you don't have a bogie locomotive so that may not be necessary.

Further options are as I did with the FO rack loco - I sold the one I had and bought a newer version with the digital ready gearbox.

Another option may be to buy the parts that are changed from an online parts dealer and swap everything over and while I did buy the updated gearbox covers for the Mallett, I chose to use the original gearbox covers in the end.
 
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The Corpet will be much similar to any other 3 pin loco as Craig says, though you will have to pull it all apart no simple solution without doing this.
 
It may seem scary, but is not too difficult to achieve..

There are a couple of 'walk-throughs' and following them, step by step will get you to the result you need.
Then start by just connecting track and motor. Test this, then look at lights. - Remember to set those dividers! Then smoke, if required.
Finally sound, and then adjust volumes and 'which button does what' if you need to..

Read every CV before you change it. Note the value it was. Right the new value, then read it back. Then test.. Try not to make too many changes in one go.
Once you have finished, record your values.

A good tip when taking a loco apart is to photograph the motion on both sides, without moving anything.. It can be easy to put things back together with something sticking up, but it should be hanging down! - We have all done it..
This usually results in the motion jamming, or something breaking.

PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
It may seem scary, but is not too difficult to achieve..

There are a couple of 'walk-throughs' and following them, step by step will get you to the result you need.
Then start by just connecting track and motor. Test this, then look at lights. - Remember to set those dividers! Then smoke, if required.
Finally sound, and then adjust volumes and 'which button does what' if you need to..

Read every CV before you change it. Note the value it was. Right the new value, then read it back. Then test.. Try not to make too many changes in one go.
Once you have finished, record your values.

A good tip when taking a loco apart is to photograph the motion on both sides, without moving anything.. It can be easy to put things back together with something sticking up, but it should be hanging down! - We have all done it..
This usually results in the motion jamming, or something breaking.

PhilP.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply and the advice. Can you point me to the couple of walkthroughs as they are probably what I need?
 
Slightly off thread - I'd be interested to know how you get on when you get to the end and load the sound file.

I've just had the latest Corpet sound file installed and it came with the standing sounds on (not a crime) but with an an inappropriate sound repeating (an announcment in this case) that fired up every the loco stopped.

Not a problem to fix but I'd like to know if its just my instance or whether you get the same result. It wasn't all loss as it forced me to learn moore about standing and random sounds in Massoth world.
 
Here is a video on fitting a decoder in Stainz. It would be similar for your loco. I've done 3 of these on various locos.

 
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Another alternative is to replace gearbox with a 4-Pin box. You still have to isolate the track voltage but you won't have to drill thehole and run the wire.

Trainli can help identify the parts if you email them.
 
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