Whilst this example is Peco 250 the same principle works for LGB and other 332 track. I put the rail in place, drill a couple of tiny holes then bang in small steel flat nails. These hold the rails in place adequately for my use of mixed gauge 3 track. If you worry too much about the nails lifting out once they have rusted a bit of oil or grease will almost stop the process, you could even dip each nail into grease as you put them in. I only did the nails every 6 sleepers.
It seems these responses are about guide rails, reading your question I had assumed you were after some type of railing, i.e. upright so if there was a de-railing the train would not fall off.
Ah, just testing the terminology.
casey jones snr
's post yesterday
If you're going near a pond, both types might be a good ideaAh, my apologies for the ambiguity in my message. Yes, check rails as demonstrated by Dunny or from
Question - does a nail in a plastic sleeper suffice? I suppose the rail itself is rarely taking a traffic like the actual rail and given the number of connections even if a couple fail it will be fine.
Yes the nail is ample, the pre drilled hole ideally need to be slightly smaller then the plastic will hold the nail in sufficiently. As I said my example is a test track for my Gauge 3 trains and works just fine.Ah, my apologies for the ambiguity in my message. Yes, check rails as demonstrated by Dunny or from
Question - does a nail in a plastic sleeper suffice? I suppose the rail itself is rarely taking a traffic like the actual rail and given the number of connections even if a couple fail it will be fine.
I found quite the opposite. I had steel nails/spikes in some rails through wooden sleepers/ties which rusted and became impossible to remove. Rusty steel expands so they were fine. Eventually the heads fell off, so they had to be replaced - but that will happen even if the shafts have been oiled or greased.
