Grease or oil

K

Kev Green

Registered
Country flag
Morning, lovely morning. I’ve read quite a few dos and donts about grease and oil. i want to lubricate the plastic wheels on my carriages and wagons, what do people use?
 
Use one tiny drop of smoke oil on each axle-end.

Any more, and you will pickup debris which will turn into grinding paste.

You can use more sophisticated materials. - Graphite being one suggestion, as it is 'dry', but it is difficult to apply precisely.

PhilP
 
Uhh... smoke oil is sometimes a bit of solvent... better to use regular oil... Smoke fluid will usually evaporate after a wheel.

Yes, I know that some smoke fluids may not evaporate.... but why not just use purpose formulated oil?

For me, dry graphite for metal axles in plastic journals attracts less grit...

Greg
 
Whilst I agree, I was thinking of something the OP may already have to hand.

Checking back-to-back, and just sorting any 'sticky' axles (not spinning freely) will probably improve overall running, as much if not more, than a full lube.

PhilP
 
Kev Green said:
Morning, lovely morning. I’ve read quite a few dos and donts about grease and oil. i want to lubricate the plastic wheels on my carriages and wagons, what do people use?
Click to expand...
The Hobb-E-Lube set has dry graphite which sort of puffs out in roughly the right place - very good for plastic wheels in plastic axleboxes :):):)
 
Even better graphite with powdered moly! (this is my preferred lube for metal axles in plastic sideframes)

HL651_f_1.jpg
 
Yeah, this is part of the issue, especially when using track powered locos. It's a question of using just enough - which is why the dry graphite is a good solution.
 
Just remember grease (graphite paste is not grease) is just oil in suspension, lanolin use to be the favourite medium, but now these include include lithium, aluminum, calcium soaps; clay; polyurea; either alone or in combination.
 
Welll, there is always the user instruction sheet that comes with already mentioned Hob-E-Lube brand. This for the 7 pack assortment (I preffer Bassets myself). Can't go wrong with these, can you ?

IMG_20230523_194939_126~2.jpgIMG_20230523_194603_187~3.jpgIMG_20230523_200554_049~2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Greg Elmassian said:
Uhh... smoke oil is sometimes a bit of solvent... better to use regular oil... Smoke fluid will usually evaporate after a wheel.

Yes, I know that some smoke fluids may not evaporate.... but why not just use purpose formulated oil?

For me, dry graphite for metal axles in plastic journals attracts less grit...

Greg
Click to expand...
Second dry graphite I have a puffer as used by locksmiths.
www.primetools.co.uk

Kasp Microfine Dry Graphite Lock Lubricant Powder 50G Cylinders/Padlocks

Ideal for lubricating and freeing up all kinds of locks, particularly car doors, padlocks & cylinder door locks. 50g pot Dry Microfine Greaseless
www.primetools.co.uk www.primetools.co.uk
 
Hah! that's funny... yeah, used to use it in the 50's but only recent history in an aerosol... you shake it first to make sure the graphite is in suspension... one of several "staples" in my lubrication arsenal... (and I do indeed have spray lanoline, great stuff for certain applications).

Greg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top