Help my lady is too fast

C

cheshire

Registered
Rather than tack onto the end of the Edrig / Lawley threads I have started a new one about my Silver Lady, in the hope of a little advice. She runs really smoothly, but has always had a slightly odd habit on my line. She is a manual one. Whenever I try to run slowly she stalls on bends and then moves off 10 seconds or so later, but running really fast (a speed not proportional to the regulator setting, which I haven't touched). That fast running continues till I slow it down using my hand. I am not sure what would happen if I let it continue racing away, I fear for the paintwork etc on the bends. There are a few long R2 bends on the line, which I know is not ideal, but my Mortimer either slows or stops, pauses to build up a head of steam, and then moves off slowly. Its like the Silver Lady lacks torque and is only happy running briskly, rather than the Mortimer which will run at a slow crawl all day. This maybe a Roundhouse running characteristic, but if not is there anything I can do to improve things? The safety valve blows at a tiny bit over 40psi, and she won't really pull even 3 wagons with less than 40 psi and the saftey valve gently hissing steam. Any ideas really gratefully received, thanks!!
 
My Caradoc tends to behave like that when running at lower presures. When it runs at a higher pressure the speed is more even up/down grades and round bends/on the straight.
 
I have to say my Roundhouse locos generally run faster than Accucraft.
This has been the theme of the Edrig/Lawley thread.

I'm currently finding the "feel" for the Accucraft Lawley, Wrekin & Edrig in keeping to a sensible light railway speed.
They all need a boost on my tight gurves.

The Roundhouse, Lady Anne & 2 Billies, generally need to be "reigned in", and are happy to run away if allowed.
The curves seem to make little difference.

40lb is the correct "blow off" pressure for RH locos, but they usually run OK at less.
I know this isn't much practical help, but it's something of a puzzle.
 
Is it possible that it isn't fully run-in yet? If tight it might not have gained sufficient freedom to run slowly without the occasional stall especially as things tend to tighten on bends anyway. Your symptoms also show a possible lack of pressure, as it moves after it has stood and built up again.
 
My recent (2009) lady anne has lots of torque and runs slowly. On my old line I had r1s which I could get her to run slowly round without what you are experincing (she is rc but i run it more manually than by rc) I am pretty sure something is wrong. I can pull 40 axles on the flat.... Sorry I can't help as I am not technical enough, but that perfromance is not right.... What I would say though is that since I have moved on to an minimum rad 5 layout live steam is a lot more enjoyable!
 
cheshire said:
Rather than tack onto the end of the Edrig / Lawley threads I have started a new one about my Silver Lady, in the hope of a little advice. She runs really smoothly, but has always had a slightly odd habit on my line. She is a manual one. Whenever I try to run slowly she stalls on bends and then moves off 10 seconds or so later, but running really fast (a speed not proportional to the regulator setting, which I haven't touched). That fast running continues till I slow it down using my hand. I am not sure what would happen if I let it continue racing away, I fear for the paintwork etc on the bends. There are a few long R2 bends on the line, which I know is not ideal, but my Mortimer either slows or stops, pauses to build up a head of steam, and then moves off slowly. Its like the Silver Lady lacks torque and is only happy running briskly, rather than the Mortimer which will run at a slow crawl all day. This maybe a Roundhouse running characteristic, but if not is there anything I can do to improve things? The safety valve blows at a tiny bit over 40psi, and she won't really pull even 3 wagons with less than 40 psi and the saftey valve gently hissing steam. Any ideas really gratefully received, thanks!!
Click to expand...

First of all an easy bit. Loosen the keep nuts on the cylinder end cap (where your piston rods go in) ? suspect they are too tight. Roundhouse timing is usually set spot on at the factory. The keep nuts need to be only tight enough to stop steam spurting out when running ? any more will have the effect you describe. Loosen them off till they leak ? then tighten up only enough to stop it. Generally less than finger tight! Give it a go and report back. I will be on line agin on Thursday of next week.
 
Interesting, Tag.
I had this problem with my IP Jane.
Being an ossy, if the gland nuts were too tight the loco simply would not run.
Loosening to just about finger tight and all was well.
I hadn't realised it could affect "propper" locos too.
 
Has anyone tried re-packing their glands with PTFE? It's virtually all I use these days on the bigger stuff. Just a length of plumber's tape and twist it into a string (I use multipe lengths) wrap it round and insert with the nut aided by a screwdriver tip.
 
Rhos Helyg Loco Works said:
bobg said:
Has anyone tried re-packing their glands with PTFE?
Click to expand...
Yes, it only lasts a few hours before it disintegrates as only a small quantity can be inserted. O-rings cost pence to buy and will last for years and years.
Click to expand...

I guess if it's designed for an "O" ring then that is obviously best. If designed for full packing then there would probably be a lot more space. "O" rings on sliding shafts usually have space to roll about a half turn so that they get worn evenly, overtightening could restrict the rolling and cause premature wear (and tightness if over done).
 
bobg said:
"O" rings on sliding shafts usually have space to roll about a half turn so that they get worn evenly, overtightening could restrict the rolling and cause premature wear (and tightness if over done).
Click to expand...
Doohhh!!
I just fitted a new O ring to my Edrig. It was a loose fit, so I packed with a washer.
One lives and does not learn.
I shall attend to it forthwith.

Later addition:-
Edrig now seems rather better, and happier on the dreaded grades.
 
There seem to be two issues here - one is the lack of power, and the other is stalling and running off at high speed.

I have never suffered from the lack of power, but I am certainly very familiar with the running off as my Roundhouse Katie always did that when I was attempting manual slow running on my less than level track, and I know of a number of others that do too. Strangely the older locos don't do it, and whether this is the different regulator or the smaller steam chests, I have never managed to find out. The fact is that for me it was such a pain that I fitted radio control. The loco is still skittish, but is driveable now.

I have used a whisp of PTFE on the glands in addition to an O ring (on the recommendation of Alan at PPS) and found it works perfectly and seems to last - though none of my locos get a huge amount of running.

Just one other thought - it is worth checking the wheel back to back measurement as I have had locos bind when this is a bit wide - especially where track has been hand bent.When they do bind they need a lot of puff to get past the tight bit and can take off when it frees up.
Cheers
Chris
 
Many thanks for the help, its running much better now!! The front pair of wheels were not set to the right width, about 3 mm too close together. Also have loosened the keep nuts and it seems to be better. It also runs better just after topping the water up, so I am wondering whether it would benefit from the safety valve resetting to blow at just under 40psi rather than just over? If I remember correctly you just turn the valve one way for increase and one way for decreas, but can someone remind me which is which please? I assume its the same direction for Accucraft and RH? Anyway if the weather ever improves up here I might get a run of it, but the clouds are racing past and its looking like winter now!!
 
cheshire said:
If I remember correctly you just turn the valve one way for increase and one way for decreas, but can someone remind me which is which please?
Click to expand...
Screw it inwards - clockwise - tighter - for higher pressure.
Just a little at a time!!
 
Good afternoon,
I had the same problem with my Wrekin.When it was on the rolling road it would run at a nice even speed and all of a sudden race like hell then run at an even pace again.All I can put it down to is water must be getting into the superheater and vapourising quickly,causing the engine to race.Try putting a little less water in. Basically it's the same thing that happened to Blue Peter at Durham.
 
MRail said:
cheshire said:
I am wondering whether it would benefit from the safety valve resetting to blow at just under 40psi rather than just over?
Click to expand...
Can't really see how that would help.
Click to expand...
I agree, the usual problem is lack of pressure, not too much. The only time too much pressure can be a problem is when trying to pull away on a heavy grade with a big load; it helps it slip, then we open the drain cocks.
 
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