Help! Plants for railway pond.

D

Dieseldonkey

Registered
Hello all,

I'm looking for advice on the best plants to use to maintain the health of the pond that my railway runs round. I have a You Tube clip that shows the railway in operation and shows the pond itself;-

www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGHWWwlhlLI&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

The pond holds around 100 gallons at most and is home to 3 goldfish. I have a hozelock 2500 eco filter (UV light and Biofilter) and a 2000 litre an hour pump that I run for a couple of hours every second day or so.The water lasts about a month before it really needs changed due to becoming a murky opaque green colour. The more sunlight the quicker it clouds. I've tried tetra additives but they don't seem to work that well. I'm looking for any tips and advice on the best type of plants to put in the water to maintain the health of the pond and keep it looking fresh.

Thanks
David
 
its to late in the season to put plants this year, but next year you want marginals of any sort around the shallows on a shelf, you could also put a small water lilly, pygmai type is best with small leaves, then oxygenating plants tied with lead and sold in bunches. in april may next year you could also get floating plant such as water lettuce but they will only last untill sept or oct when the first frost arrives.
im the manager of a garden centre aquatic centre so if you need any more help let me know.
 
Don't be tempted to change the water when it gets murky because all you end up doing is putting in fresh nutrients for green algae to feed on and the cycle starts again. You have a UV light fitted and this should combat the green water but you have to give it time to do it's job. Leave it working over the winter and you should see the benefit come spring. The water should clear quickly as the coming days get shorter and there is less sunlight to fuel the green algae. Once spring arrives the UV light should be able to cope with any algae that grows on a daily basis as by then the water will have matured. Constantly changing the water will not be good for the fish either.

A small water lily as already suggested is a good idea because the leaves (pads) grow and float on the surface they block out the sunlight and will help in reducing the green algae.

Any plants added will also help in maturing the water as they will be in direct competition with the green algae for any nutrients in the water.

Good luck.
 
Hi
From reading your post i think you say you run your pump every other day for a couple of hours. I hate to have to tell you but it needs to be running all the time or at least all day
I have a Hozelock 5000 that runs 24/7 with a uv and home made filterbox just to keep the water clear then another Hozelock 15000 that i turn on for my mountain stream and waterfall just when im out in the garden and while ive just done a lot of work extening it all so have just changed the water in the past i have kept the same water for years
I cant have fish as i have newts (creasted and common) but as said before wildlife dont like change and will survive far better it a ballenced habitat or at least one that remains stable
If your worried about the cost of running 24/7 dont be your pump if its the later Hozelock one wont cost more than a couple of quid a week

Tony
 
Another thing that clears algae is Straw.
Put some in an old pair of tights (or similar) and place in the pond.
 
You can get extract of barley straw which you just mix with water and add to the pond as an alternative to straw. A solar powered pump and aerator is a "green" possibility. When you add or replace water you should be using rainwater ideally.

We have a pond with no aids and just a few, unknown, plants the previous owners put in, and algae isn't a problem. Duckweed can be, but that can just be raked off to keep it under control and does mean there are shady areas on the pnd bottom for frogs or fish.
 
Water cress is also good at getting rid of blanket weed and algae. Buy a bunch in your supermarket, eat some, and throw the rest in. It will root pretty quickly. It does spread, and you will need to thin it out pretty regularly. It's quite attractive and has a small white flower. Don't try and eat it though, as it is a carrier of liver fluke !!! You should only eat watercress from running water.
 
yep
run the pump-non stop-clena the filter regularly-before it gets really dirty
use straw
the water will have an algae bloom and then settle -happens to me every year
plants-water lilys, horsetails, duck weed, water lettuce, all help not only with reducing nutrient but also for providing cover for the fish
 
WaterPlants

Some plants provide shelter and protection from predators, a place to fish and frogs to spawn, some are a food source, while others of pond water and oxygen filter. Water plants consume the same nutrients as algae, so the choice is simple .... Would you rather have?
All well-designed gardens natural water, incorporate a range of water plants each of the five areas of the pond for the selection of a number of plants in each area of ??the pond, water gardens can create a more stable and balanced. Water plants not only help create a healthy pond, but also help create a wildlife habitat pond.
Fertilize your pond plants should only be done with slow-release fertilizer added to the soil where the roots of plants and pond water, where nutrients become available to algae.
Types of Pond Plants
Pond Plants are divided into several groups.
Floating pond plants
Floating plants are divided into two groups depending on the location of their roots. Those that grow with their roots in the soil and the leaves on the surface are the lilies, parrot feather, lotus, lilies etc "Hardy" or other water plants are essentially perennial. Usually survive outdoors in winter and return year after year. Tropical, however, must be inside during the winter or spring purchase each time you start your pond.
Water lilies in pots should be kept in pots with mesh baskets that allow roots to spread and allow the plants develop specialized roots that grow fine food through the holes and remove nutrients from the lagoon. They also allow the pots due to numerous boards, forming a large mass that is more difficult for animals to wind down.
Plant at a depth between 18 and 30 inches under water, although it should be started much shallower (6 "-12") in the spring to be exposed to more sunlight.
A second type of floating plant whole plant grows on the surface of the water with their roots dangling in the water. Water hyacinths (which are illegal in Texas and some other places), clover, water lettuce, azolla and are examples of this group.

Submerged Pond Plants
Submerged aquatic plants grow completely below the water surface and are rarely seen. Although called the oxygenation plants that only produce oxygen in sunlight. Actually consume oxygen at night. Submerged plants are very efficient in using nutrients that otherwise the algal blooms. Their presence improves the quality of water, offers a space for fish to spawn, and serves as a refuge for small fish. Examples of submerged plants include Elodea, Anacharis and hornwort.
Marginal
Marginal plants are growing on the edge or margin of a pond, (sometimes called bog plants) usually require 1.6 inches of water above the crown. The roots may be wet, but the stems and leaves may be above the water surface. The top of the pot should be between 2 and 6 inches below the water unless they are of the highest varieties, such as reeds and papyrus, which can be as deep as 12 "after they are well developed.
"Hardy" marginal Acoris include, Aquatic Mint, Arum, Arrowhead, Bean marsh reeds, Clover, Club de Oro, Houttonia, Iris, lizard's tail, banana, and most of Rush.
Include Blue Bells Tropical, Bog Lily, Cannas, Sagittaria Papyrus, Spider Lily, Taros, Thalia, Umbrella Palm, Hibiscus water, and Zephyr Lily.
http://www.silkplantsdirect.com/art...ls-spiral-cones-hedges/view-all-products.html < Link To
faux boxwood
 
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