How do you control manual locos?
- Thread starter Mobi
- Start date
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
A little bit like a `how long is a piece of string` question this.
If the loco is easy to access as it is in motion around the layout and the regulator and/or the reverser are easy to control (ie they have an extension and /or a bit of heat insulation on the bit you touch) then it is pretty easy ...
but...
If the track is at ground level, then as long as you can bend down and the regulator, as already mentioned, is easy to alter, then even then it ain`t so bad.
If the layout is fairly level then there should be not too much need for changing the regulator....but...
If the layout has distinct changes in incline etc then maybe a bit of alteration will be necessary, depending on how much the track varies.
Best thing if you are going manual and the loco will be used on tracks that can cause it to need a bit more, or less, welly at different times, is to extend the regulator with a small bar handle and put a bit of `heatshrink` over the end as it will get hot.
If the loco is easy to access as it is in motion around the layout and the regulator and/or the reverser are easy to control (ie they have an extension and /or a bit of heat insulation on the bit you touch) then it is pretty easy ...
but...
If the track is at ground level, then as long as you can bend down and the regulator, as already mentioned, is easy to alter, then even then it ain`t so bad.
If the layout is fairly level then there should be not too much need for changing the regulator....but...
If the layout has distinct changes in incline etc then maybe a bit of alteration will be necessary, depending on how much the track varies.
Best thing if you are going manual and the loco will be used on tracks that can cause it to need a bit more, or less, welly at different times, is to extend the regulator with a small bar handle and put a bit of `heatshrink` over the end as it will get hot.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Provided you have a level layout then any manual loco will be easy to operate. Any inclines and you should really have R/C operation, unless of course, you have a geared loco such as a Shay, Climax of Heisler. They are less prone to run away on an incline.
Get along to one of the 16 mm NGM Bedfordshire or Northamptonshire area group meetings (you did say you were in Beds in another thread, didn't you ?)and I'm sure all your questions on this matter will be demonstrated and answered.
Seems like you are getting the bug seriously and going through all the price point thresholds. Max.
Get along to one of the 16 mm NGM Bedfordshire or Northamptonshire area group meetings (you did say you were in Beds in another thread, didn't you ?)and I'm sure all your questions on this matter will be demonstrated and answered.
Seems like you are getting the bug seriously and going through all the price point thresholds. Max.
stevelewis
Registered
As mentioned in other replies, if your line has fairly gentle gradients (If any!) and not too severe radius curves then running a manual LS loco is fairly straight forward, however if any of the above criteria dont apply, then it is sometimes a case of being able to run like the clappers and chase the loco sometimes!
When I went through my Live steam period some years ago I had mostly RC Locos which I found easy to control, but I never really liked the 2 Manual ones I bought and they actually did not get a lot of steaming.
When I went through my Live steam period some years ago I had mostly RC Locos which I found easy to control, but I never really liked the 2 Manual ones I bought and they actually did not get a lot of steaming.
JRinTawa
Member of the Wellington Garden Railway Group
Yes the question of manual control verses radio control really does depend on the loco (I have both), the railway your running on, and just how you'll use it. As Mike says burning your pinkies is not really a problem with a bit of heat shrink on the regulator handle. Some parts of a live steamer gets quite hot but can always be handles with care.
But even more so that considering that battery diesel loco, in the other thread, visiting running days is an absolute must when considering a live steamer. Oh and a word or two of warning - live steam can be come very addictive
But even more so that considering that battery diesel loco, in the other thread, visiting running days is an absolute must when considering a live steamer. Oh and a word or two of warning - live steam can be come very addictive
artfull dodger
Registered
The best manual engines are either geared models, including the Easy Line models from Regner, OR a Roundhouse equipted with a SSP Slomo inertia device. This geared flywheel set up tames the "jackrabbit" nature of small side rod engines at slow speeds. You can go watch videos of models that have and do not have this feature on them. It is offered for the Billy, Katie and Lady Anne. It should also fit the old Jack model since that chassis is basicly the same as a Billy or Katie. I enjoy manual control, espically on raised railways. Ground level lines are more enjoyable with RC, but manual control is doable if the model is geared or has a Slomo. Others have also fitted the Slomo to a heaving wagon so that other engines can benefit from it. Manual engines do not need batteries, the worry about forgetting the transmitter or the batteries being flat when you get to a show or steam up. I really enjoy "driving" my manual control Roundhouse Billy with the SSP Slomo installed. Mike the Aspie
Here is a pic of Slomo installed in the frame of my Billy. I can deactivate it by loosening a single grub screw on the chain sprocket.
Here is a pic of Slomo installed in the frame of my Billy. I can deactivate it by loosening a single grub screw on the chain sprocket.
artfull dodger
Registered
Here is a cab shot, you can see the long silver throttle lever pointed downward. Valve gear control is just on the other side of the copper oil tank.
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
I had a battery train that I didn't use much. It was exciting to run, the control was done manually, or in other words, once a year.
I also had some foreign visitors stop by for a couple of words, I did not understand either of them........ thread drift...... Goons........ (hat, coat, door?).
I also had some foreign visitors stop by for a couple of words, I did not understand either of them........ thread drift...... Goons........ (hat, coat, door?).
From what I remember of Mobi's posts of his line it has a lot of R1 Track. So a geared Loco of some sort would be the thing.
Angus most definately but hmm bit on the expensive side.
Regner ones would be a better bet as most of their cheeper offerings are geared and trundle nicely roind the track. But and a big but with Regner, you do need to keep topping them up on the run (the water does not last as long as the gas) and on my Otto I needed an add part on to make this work. Something to possibly bear in mind and ask with any Regner purchase.
Re SloMo on Roundhouse, perfect but not a job for the faint hearted. Also an older Jack has the issue of a Rounded Weight Bar which in not so easily adjusted. As with that and many older Roundhouse Lcomotives the Rod was permanently fitted in timing with a Pin whereas newer machines have an Adjustable Allun Key Screw fit.
Angus most definately but hmm bit on the expensive side.
Regner ones would be a better bet as most of their cheeper offerings are geared and trundle nicely roind the track. But and a big but with Regner, you do need to keep topping them up on the run (the water does not last as long as the gas) and on my Otto I needed an add part on to make this work. Something to possibly bear in mind and ask with any Regner purchase.
Re SloMo on Roundhouse, perfect but not a job for the faint hearted. Also an older Jack has the issue of a Rounded Weight Bar which in not so easily adjusted. As with that and many older Roundhouse Lcomotives the Rod was permanently fitted in timing with a Pin whereas newer machines have an Adjustable Allun Key Screw fit.
If you're after a cheap but fun live steamers, try a Mamod Brunel, it's geared so will do inclines and will run out of gas before the water. Mind you, yoully have to master the Manual Sprint, which involves at any point having to dash of to rescue your uncontrollable loco from suicidal or murderous intentions.
artfull dodger
Registered
With Regners you also want to drain the boiler between runs as its brass and water left in them isnt good for the metal. The Mamod is Copper I think. The Slomo isnt that bad of a job, depending on the model of Roundhouse you have. The curved weight shaft can be cut out with a dremel and cut off disc, and a new piece of straight 3mm rod fitted without removing the boiler from the engine, atleast on a Billy. The best way to fit the device is to build one of the excellent kits from Roundhouse, then it can be fitted when the chassis is built. This is what I did and its a snap to do it that way. Building the kit is an excellent experience, if your in the UK, Roundhouse is a phone call away if you run into issues and you will know your model fowards and backwards so you can take it to bits any time you wish. Mike
tac foley
Registered
Any Shay is a good friend of the geriatric, or the less than fleet of foot. Even flat out they move like a tortoise on sleeping pills. On the plus side, their unusual configuration always generates a lot of chat, and they are usually not far away from when you started the conversation in the fust place.
Flat out at 7.5 smph.
The keen-eyed here wil note the application of the UCD - Universal Coupling Device - a simple object that replaces/augments]provides a secure method of connecting any locomotive of any scale with any brand of car/wagon you care to put behind it. It's a big paper clip.
tac
Flat out at 7.5 smph.
The keen-eyed here wil note the application of the UCD - Universal Coupling Device - a simple object that replaces/augments]provides a secure method of connecting any locomotive of any scale with any brand of car/wagon you care to put behind it. It's a big paper clip.
tac
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Ronchatt
Registered
I agree with Tac , if you are under 30 or a very fit older person, you can stick to manual.
if you are a geriatric like me or cannot run 20 yds in 2.5 seconds when the loco derails
then go for R/C. The initial cost is worth it check RCS Aus.for one There are plenty in the UK
But to answer the original Question NO it is not safe to handle a hot loco I know a man
that used gloves to lift an Aster, only to have the safety valve blow of and scold his arm
if you are a geriatric like me or cannot run 20 yds in 2.5 seconds when the loco derails
then go for R/C. The initial cost is worth it check RCS Aus.for one There are plenty in the UK
But to answer the original Question NO it is not safe to handle a hot loco I know a man
that used gloves to lift an Aster, only to have the safety valve blow of and scold his arm
tac foley
Registered
Now THAT I would love to have heard!!!!
Anyhow, to get back to the original question. Most live-steam drivers, including me, limit themselves to operating the controls of the loco, rather than giving it a comforting cuddle as it goes around the track. Larger scale models, like the green 0-4-0 shown above, have nice big cabs in which you can fit nice long control levers to operate the throttle and gas control, as well as the Johnson bar if and when you need to change direction. Many of the later Gauge 1 locos from Aster and Accucraft have them as well, and the extra room makes fitting r/c easier than it used to be in the early days. My Aster Br01, a beautiful German express loco modelled in the early '80s, not only has almost zero room to operate the controls - throttle and blower - but they are very close together and are fitted with minute - almost scale-size - handwheels instead of levers.
In this video you can get an idea of just how little space there is to do anything - and EVERYTHING in there is VERY hot [the loco is alcohol-fired].
Another movie of it running at Ruddington track, with its full set of ten cars, also shows it off, working hard.
Again, going back to the present day, many people me included, cover the ends of the operating levers with heat-reducing plastic shrinkwrap.
The odd thing is, my fingers are ultra sensitive to heat when applied to just about anything in the kitchen, and yet my greatest fun comes from running gas or alcohol-fired live steam locomotives. Mrs tac fails to understand that the heat is somehow 'different'...
tac
Ottawa Valley Garden Railway Society
Anyhow, to get back to the original question. Most live-steam drivers, including me, limit themselves to operating the controls of the loco, rather than giving it a comforting cuddle as it goes around the track. Larger scale models, like the green 0-4-0 shown above, have nice big cabs in which you can fit nice long control levers to operate the throttle and gas control, as well as the Johnson bar if and when you need to change direction. Many of the later Gauge 1 locos from Aster and Accucraft have them as well, and the extra room makes fitting r/c easier than it used to be in the early days. My Aster Br01, a beautiful German express loco modelled in the early '80s, not only has almost zero room to operate the controls - throttle and blower - but they are very close together and are fitted with minute - almost scale-size - handwheels instead of levers.
In this video you can get an idea of just how little space there is to do anything - and EVERYTHING in there is VERY hot [the loco is alcohol-fired].
Another movie of it running at Ruddington track, with its full set of ten cars, also shows it off, working hard.
Again, going back to the present day, many people me included, cover the ends of the operating levers with heat-reducing plastic shrinkwrap.
The odd thing is, my fingers are ultra sensitive to heat when applied to just about anything in the kitchen, and yet my greatest fun comes from running gas or alcohol-fired live steam locomotives. Mrs tac fails to understand that the heat is somehow 'different'...
tac
Ottawa Valley Garden Railway Society
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tac foley
Registered
Last bit of the Ruddington run (with the coaches able to be counted with your eyes closed) was most excellent!
Unfortunately, I fear I would have to sell both cars and SW, to fund a single coach.. Never mind the entire train!
You'll REALLY like this clip then...turn up the louderator...
BTW, five of the Maerklin cars were new, and five were second-hand. All five second-hand together cost me almost a £100 less than ONE of the new ones. Just have to be in the right place at the right time.
tac
Does that mean you've got an excuse to send a Valentine's Card?
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Yes, but do I send it to Tac, or the train??
FOR SALE:
Two cars, one SW..
Bodywork not what it was..
Performance has dropped-off with age!
You will be in so much tr
You will be in so much trouble if SW reads that.Yes, but do I send it to Tac, or the train??
FOR SALE:
Two cars, one SW..
Bodywork not what it was..
Performance has dropped-off with age!