How I make track on wooden sleepers

gregh

electronics, computers and scratchbuilding
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My website has details of how I build my own track from brass rail on timber sleepers.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/track.htm
?.. look about halfway down the page for ?Making Brass Track?

But I thought another entry here might tempt some others down my path to madness (or confirm it?s not the way for them!). I?ve been using this method since 2002. Luckily I can purchase 12? lengths of code 332 brass rails for 22 AUD ( say 14 GBP) .
Total cost works out at $15 AUD per metre of track (say 10 GBP) and each metre takes me about 30 minutes to make. It?s a bit boring, but I break it up into small portions and slowly get it finished.

I have used Aristo plastic sleepers on the rail, but they cost around $15 per metre. I reckon I?d rather spend 30 minutes than $15. And it is still quite time consuming pushing the plastic sleepers onto curved rail anyhow.

So here?s my process:-
I make my sleepers from treated pine ?slats? from lattice manufacturers ? they are 38mm wide by 8mm thick by 2m long. This is cut into 3 lengthways to give sleepers about 11mm wide by 8mm deep; and then cut to 95-100mm long.

I use 15mm steel brads (small nails), 4 per sleeper to attach the rail. I originally used bright steel but they have rusted quickly (not to the point of failure yet), so now I use nickel plated ones.

I built a jig for marking the nail positions- just push each sleeper onto the white nails.
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Then I hammer the nails in with the head and about 3mm protruding on top - this means about 3mm is sticking out the bottom.
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These are bent over underneath with pliers, to stop them pulling up.
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The rails are then put in place and a pair of pincers used to bend the nail heads over the rail foot. It's easier than it sounds.
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The rails are bent before putting the sleepers on, although slight adjustments can be made when completed. I bend all rails by hand - I have never seen the need for a rails bender. After installation I 'paint' Bondcrete (waterproof PVA) over the nails to slow rusting and it really makes the track stronger.
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Neat - and simple - look like dog spikes! Would never have thought of clenching the nail underneath and into the rail web. Another great idea to file for later use.

Mick
 
Hmmmmm nice and simple.... Ha ha Greg you must be getting your rail from the same place as me.... I'll be soldering mine to PCB sleepers though...
 
As ever Greg, your methods are simple, neat and very effective. Thanks for sharing them. I'm considering adding a 32mm gauge link to the copper mine and this would look a lot more realistic than chaired plastic track.

Just a thought, would it work just as well with brass nails? I suspect the climate here in NW England is more conducive to rust.

Rik
 
Hi all,a very clever idea , and simple to do , is there a supplier in the uk for the rail in brass regards Dave
 
ge_rik said:
As ever Greg, your methods are simple, neat and very effective. Thanks for sharing them. I'm considering adding a 32mm gauge link to the copper mine and this would look a lot more realistic than chaired plastic track.

Just a thought, would it work just as well with brass nails? I suspect the climate here in NW England is more conducive to rust.

Rik
Thanks Rik.

I wish I could buy brass nails but I've looked everywhere here in Oz with no luck. Only small 10mm long ones, and they pull out after a few years.
 
I am going to start my track shortly and my idea is to get hold of a 4in angle grinder standand fit a stop to it. I will mark tie positions and nick rail at these points then drive brads into nicks. leave out in weather brads will go rusty like prototype. there is a quicker way to rust steel but not for this site
 
Watched your "How I built my garden railway", last night, on Youtube. Excellent!!
 
A wood trestle bridge kit that I was helping to build a while back recommended using steel pins rather than brass. As the pins rust they grip the wood much better.
 
ge_rik said:
Ditto

Rik
Madman said:
Watched your "How I built my garden railway", last night, on Youtube. Excellent!!

Thanks Dan and Rik. I appreciate your comments.
I've put the video link in a separate topic.

https://www.gscalecentral.net/g-scale-videos/how-i-built-the-sandstone-termite/
 
[quote author=lun-ra3 link=topic=129945.msg344184#msg344184 date=1424074987]
I am going to start my track shortly and my idea is to get hold of a 4in angle grinder standand fit a stop to it. I will mark tie positions and nick rail at these points then drive brads into nicks. leave out in weather brads will go rusty like prototype. there is a quicker way to rust steel but not for this site
[/quote]

Sounds a reasonable idea. Could be difficult to get notches in correct place on curved track. 
Let us know how it goes over time.  It will certainly stop one of my problems some of the sleepers `skewing`  when brushed.
I still haven`t made up my mind about steel vs brass nails.  Some of my unplated steel nails from 12 years ago have virtually rusted away, despite my `solution` of `painting` them with outdoor PVA glue.
IMG_1658.JPG
Maybe brass, dabbed in a bit of glue before placing in, would be OK ?
 
If you can't find brass nails you could try brass rod. Welding supplies sell 1/16" brazing rod in 36" lengths. It's sold by weight. I used to buy it to make catenary for my "O" gauge Lionel layouts. Round head brass wood screws might be another choice. Just be sure they are solid brass, not brass plated.
 
I seriously enjoyed reading Gregh's stuff. I think I have now been right through his building process.

I am still interested in the Al bar for track, but am a little dismayed by the prospect of having to clean it "vigorously" before every run. I am assuming a quick run over by a cleaning loco would not do a good enough job ?

The prices I have seen so far for code 332 brass rails is still very very expensive. Yes, I KNOW I will be using some to start, especially the main station compound and a few other places. But for the bulk of the initial layout, ouch! And yes, I wish to eventually replace all main line with brass.

Other than listed LGB and Co. dealers, EvilBay etc, are there any other places i could look for code 332 rails in Europe, preferably UK or Ireland ?

All is fair in love and war, but I really do not feel RC is for me. :'(

As an aside, as I have not a cost analysis yet, could I not nickle plate the Al ? Then paint the sides ..



Thanks
 
If you find a supplier of track (at a good price - or not) here in Ireland let me know! :D

Given the climate here, brass track is a must. Just look for bargains on ebay and slowly build up a collection of track!

Today's prices for new track make me shudder! The one thing to factor into the cost (from my point of view) is the cost of postage from the UK!
 
I would not build my own track..

Now, large radius points *might* be another matter!! :o The prices!!! :(

I know they sell less large radius, but it is still a manufacturing process, and I am not really able to see why they are so expensive?? - Perhaps if I ever try to build one, I will find out! ;)


The larger collections of track, where a railway is being disposed of, seem to be more economical.. In fact I have (more than) recovered the cost of the item from EvilBay, by selling-on what I did not want in one case. - It is also amazing what 'bits' you get with these items, and how useful they can be! ;D
 
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