How to increase chuff rate on LGB 65000 sound module

artfull dodger

artfull dodger

Registered
Country flag
I have had this thing for quite awhile now and would like to put it in my 2080d that is converted to battery power, problem is the chuff rate is way way to slow. Is there a way to change this, like hooking it up to a MTS or DCC system and changing a CV or is there another way like an axle trigger. I figured out now to trigger the whistle and bell functioning using the LGB track magnets and sensors that would go under the engine. Thanks Mike the Aspie
 
Link to instructions:

https://www.onlytrains.com/pdf/I65000.pdf

There should be a trigger input socket, but I believe not all units were equipped?

Whether you could get a trigger unit to fit in the split motor-block, is another matter??

You can alter start voltage (for sounds) etc. in CV's, but it is limited what you can do.
 
And if anyone knows the CVs to change to assign sound on/off from F8 to something else then I am all ears...
 
artfull dodger said:
I have had this thing for quite awhile now and would like to put it in my 2080d that is converted to battery power, problem is the chuff rate is way way to slow. Is there a way to change this, like hooking it up to a MTS or DCC system and changing a CV or is there another way like an axle trigger. I figured out now to trigger the whistle and bell functioning using the LGB track magnets and sensors that would go under the engine. Thanks Mike the Aspie
Click to expand...
I don't think the 2080D came with sound fitted so what has been retrofitted to make sounds?
And if you have converted to battery how are you controlling the loco?
I think we need a bit more info before we can help you

If you do have a 65000 as PhilP PhilP says then looks like altering CV3 and CV4 might change the rate at which the chuffs speed up if you don't have a wheel sensor 65010
 
I just wired a common reed switch and magnet wheel trigger and I have variable chuff. Whistle could stand to be louder but my 280 has sound now. Mike the Aspie
 
artfull dodger said:
I just wired a common reed switch and magnet wheel trigger and I have variable chuff. Whistle could stand to be louder but my 280 has sound now. Mike the Aspie
Click to expand...
Depending on how you have set up the system more magnets on the wheels should give you a higher chuff rate. Interesting that you have used the 65000 for a Battery Loco, never thought of that and have a couple kicking around. Must experiment with my new Mallett Build.
 
I put twin magnets on the back side of the rear driver on my 2080, space so the chuff happens at the correct spots in the side rod motion. Works really well. The battery power gives stable power to the sound unit with the way I run the engine with just an on/off switch, using the full battery voltage(7.2vt) to set the speed.
 
The one thing that has really disappointed me with my Aster/LGB White Pass mikado is the twice-per-revolution chuff instead of four. Seems it can't be changed either.....

tac
 
artfull dodger said:
I put twin magnets on the back side of the rear driver on my 2080, space so the chuff happens at the correct spots in the side rod motion. Works really well. The battery power gives stable power to the sound unit with the way I run the engine with just an on/off switch, using the full battery voltage(7.2vt) to set the speed.
Click to expand...
Yes you need 4 Magnets, there are 4 chuffs to each wheel revolution on a 2 cylinder locomotive. You get one per cylinder on the forward stroke and another on the reverse stroke. Sorry if I sound like I am teaching granny to suck eggs here.

Thinking a little more about using one of these units in my Battery Locomotive I am wondering what may occur with Controlled Voltage on the unit, probably no different to what may occur if one is fitted to an analogue loco but there would be no hiss when the loco is stationary. Certainly need to play with this.
 
dunnyrail said:
Yes you need 4 Magnets, there are 4 chuffs to each wheel revolution on a 2 cylinder locomotive. You get one per cylinder on the forward stroke and another on the reverse stroke. Sorry if I sound like I am teaching granny to suck eggs here.

Thinking a little more about using one of these units in my Battery Locomotive I am wondering what may occur with Controlled Voltage on the unit, probably no different to what may occur if one is fitted to an analogue loco but there would be no hiss when the loco is stationary. Certainly need to play with this.
Click to expand...

Jon feed the unit with battery volts.. You will be using magnets for 'speed'..
 
tac foley said:
The one thing that has really disappointed me with my Aster/LGB White Pass mikado is the twice-per-revolution chuff instead of four. Seems it can't be changed either.....

tac
Click to expand...
Have you had a chuff smoke unit fitted because I had a similar problem and no matter what I tried with the CVs I had no luck. On taking the loco apart I found the dip switches on the smoke unit set at 2, shifting it to 4 resolved the problem and returned the control of the CVs.
 
My loco is totally unchanged from the day I bought it from the importer in Leighton Buzzard. The feature I'm referring to is the sound of a chuff, not a pulse of a chuff, so futzing around with the smoke unit as installed might not do the job.

tac
 
tac foley said:
My loco is totally unchanged from the day I bought it from the importer in Leighton Buzzard. The feature I'm referring to is the sound of a chuff, not a pulse of a chuff, so futzing around with the smoke unit as installed might not do the job.

tac
Click to expand...
My sound only gave 2 chuffs which corrected when I selected the 4 chuffs on the smoke unit. I only suggest this if you have exhausted all other avenues.
 
As this is the only digital loco I have, I don't have the means of changing any settings, unless it's a mechanical movement of a physical switch - I don't have the MTS [?] programmer.

tac
 
There are 2 dip switches on the top of the smoke unit. If I remember rightly one is marked 2 or 4. If the switch is at the I dent of 2 that will be your problem. Unfortunately it requires the dismantling of your loco.
 
Thanks for that. I can see that it's a matter of waiting till the spirit moves me, but right now it ain't.

tac
 
Tac,
How old is your loco? And does it have a pulsed smoke unit??
If not, then what Chas suggests does not apply..
 
PhilP said:
Tac,
How old is your loco? And does it have a pulsed smoke unit??
If not, then what Chas suggests does not apply..
Click to expand...
I strongly suspect, like my LGB/Aster Garratt, it has a standard Seuthe type smoke unit. As there was plenty of space and the electronics were compatible I fitted a Massoth pulsed smoke unit with excellent results.
 
Tac. How do you control your layout and do you have the wherewithal to read (Massoth) or just change CVs with a 55015 with a programming insert. If you can change CV54 to 2 (the LGB default) which is 2 chuffs then if you have my problem with the smoke unit you should be left with just 1 chuff. By changing CV54 to 66 and you are only getting 2 chuffs and you do have pulsed smoke then look to the smoke unit.
 
chasaitch said:
Tac. How do you control your layout and do you have the wherewithal to read (Massoth) or just change CVs with a 55015 with a programming insert. If you can change CV54 to 2 (the LGB default) which is 2 chuffs then if you have my problem with the smoke unit you should be left with just 1 chuff. By changing CV54 to 66 and you are only getting 2 chuffs and you do have pulsed smoke then look to the smoke unit.
Click to expand...

As I noted in post #14, I don't have the means to alter any kind of digital stuff - I only run analogue on the track and I've never ever used the smoke unit - the unopened sachet of smoke-oil is still in the packaging.

I guess I'll leave it alone rather than futz it up.

Thanks for trying to help.

tac
OVGRS
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top