How well do the Corpet 0-6-0's handle R1 curves?

artfull dodger

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How well do the Corpet 0-6-0's handle going thru R1 curves? Do they slow down or bind any. I know the moguls will bind, and my Harz 2-6-2 would slow down quite a bit in the R1 curves. I know any of LGB's 0-4-0's like the Staniz will do just fine. Just looking for a second (bigger) locomotive for our new garden line and R1 curves is all we are able to use. I love the red ones myself! My sis wants me to get a red one as she got pics of one operating when she was an exchange student in France a few years ago. I have the 35mm pic of it somewhere. Mike
 
Short answer is very well indeed. Mel (yb281) has one which runs smooth as silk around his line which is mainly R1s. Taking the pickup skates off helps.
 
another confirmation-they run beautifully on R1-
lots of play in the center axel

great loco-one of my favs among all LGB
 
whatlep said:
Short answer is very well indeed. Mel (yb281) has one which runs smooth as silk around his line which is mainly R1s. Taking the pickup skates off helps.
Yep I can confirm that the Corpet performs faultlessly around R1's. I can thoroughly recommend it. I should point out though that Peter's remark re. moving the skates are due to the fact that mine has been converted to battery power and RC. It also ran perfectly when it was on track power, although as Paul says, it was chipped (although running on analogue).
 
Heres my two. Both run fine on R1s with the skates on. Lovely engines.
2b8526d10c5d4765b1a2c1579edf4f65.jpg
 
no problems here with them, all skates fitted..:)
P1120997.jpg

P1120910.jpg
 
If you want something a bit beefier than a Corpet that will take R1s (and reverse R1 curves, too) without significant loss of power why not splash out and buy a Saxon IVK. They're pricier than a 2-6-2* (but not pricier than the RhB 2-6-0) - but then the Harz 2-6-2 seems to have vanished from every dealer's inventory at the moment.

GH

* I'm surprised that you have trouble with the 2-6-2 on R1s - mine is quite happy with 20 axles through R1 reverse curves. The Corpet takes about 14-16 comfortably without loss of speed.
 
yb281 said:
In fact, I've often said that I'd quite happily have a railway equipped with nothing BUT Corpets. Love em ............. with or without skates. :rolf::rolf:
Yep - me too. High on the wish list for Santa Marklin to reissue.
 
Great looking loco . Spreewald is a good runner too.
336e99293e8a45b9b1bf7c6f738dbbe6.jpg
 
The older spreewald is quite hard to locate here in the states, folks tend to hang on to the green/red/black version that I love. I also love the huge 2085d Mallet! I do love the little Corpet, espicaly the Cambria version with the red valve motion. I kind of like the more colorfull engines verses the black/red models. If I get the chance to get another Mallet, I just might and deal with it slowing a bit on the R1 curves. Some LGB's do ok thru the R1's and others have issues. Both of the moguls I had would slow quite a bit in the curves. Mike
 
artfull dodger said:
.....
[style="background-color: #ff0000;"]If I get the chance to get another Mallet, I just might and deal with it slowing a bit on the R1 curves. Some LGB's do ok thru the R1's and others have issues. Both of the moguls I had would slow quite a bit in the curves. Mike

i would tell you that none of my mallets-2085, the sound version with the extra stuff on the top, or the uintah slow on R1s at all
my older moguls do indeed
 
It is my understanding thst every LGB loco is designed to negotiate R1s. Either the play in the axles or articulation enables this. Some larger ones may look silly due to the excess overhang but they go round.
 
Just a thought - is the problem not the loco (as KeithT says, they're all designed for RI and even my 99-4632 0-8-0 goes round R1 with no obvious reduction in traction), but the rolling stock. I do find that some long wheelbase 4 wheelers do slow the train down compared with, say, a train of the same number of axles on bogie stock or short wheelbase items. The long RhB 4 wheelers of Chinese manufacture are particularly bad at this because the single axle trucks are so stiff, not being mounted on proper pivots, but some other long a wheelers are also a literal "drag".

GH
 
KeithT said:
It is my understanding thst every LGB loco is designed to negotiate R1s. Either the play in the axles or articulation enables this. Some larger ones may look silly due to the excess overhang but they go round.

It should however be noted that the large 8 and 10 coupled locos wear out quicker and need more maintenance if running on curves tighter than R3. If you buy a Mikado or Harz 2-10-2 avoid reverse curves on R1 and R2 as they will damage the chassis, certainly a great many Mikados hasd chassis problems when run on small curves. Also my Rugan when new came with a tube of oil and special instructions for very regular lubrication to avoid chassis damage - I guess Lehmann were a little nervous after losing a lot of money on warrantee repairs to Mikados as I've not heard of any Rugan problems!
 
Surely it shouldn't be a surprise that the longer wheelbase, the less suited stock is to running around R1's? It's just plain engineering logic. The answer is, if you want to run longer stock, use the longest radius curves you can fit into the available space. If the available space makes it essential to use R1's (as in my case), then limit the length of your rolling stock. Shimples. :bigsmile:
 
Exactly. I know my 2119d bumble bee mogul would slow down in R1 curves and the pilot truck would hit the cylinder face and lock up the wheels as it went thru the turns. I know all LGB engines are engineered to run on R1 curves (the 1100 rule) but some just dont do it well. I have settled on the Stainz for now, with a 2073 green Eurovapor 0-6-2 at a later date. And hopefully in the future a Regner Stainz to feed my live steam bug. Got to finish up school first and land a decent job. Not working at all other than fixing peoples lawn mowers and model trains. Cheers Mike
 
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