I think it's called the "6' way"?

S

Sarah Winfield

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What is the scale distance, please, from the ends of sleepers on inner of opposing tracks please? (I think that's what I mean).

Thanks,

SW.

PS I want to make a gauge to use when I manage to kick my track; which is quite often i'm afraid.
 
In 1:1 terms on standard gauge railways, you're right, it's called 'the 6 foot', but for 1:22.5 narrow gauge, and much tighter curves creating inswing and outswing overhang it will tend to vary on the radii that your're using.

I think there was a thread a few months ago on this :think::think::think::think:

Alternatively, just give it a kick on the opposite direction - it'll make you feel soooooooooooo much better :rock::rock::rock::rock::rock::rock::rock:
 
Most people want the track to track distance, since the "ends of the sleepers" can vary.

Why not make a stick with 2 notches to fit over the rails of the parallel tracks? Of course this is different on curves, and not always the same through the curve.

Greg

Oh, the scale center distance varies depending on switchyard, branch line, main line. You can look that up, but that number will be inappropriate for your trains in most if not all cases. (our trains, by virtue of non-exact scale and tight curves need a bit more clearance than prototype)
 
Did you see the one that I made out of some MDF when doing my recent new station? Best thing for you would be to have 2 R1 Points tigether and a piece of rail on the end so that you create 2 parallel tracks then use this as a gauge to make your gauge. I mark the gauge then drill a larger hole around 20-30cm higher than the track level. Cut groves with a junior hacksaw to the rail width job done. image.jpg
Lots of groves in this one for differing purposes, the holy ones were the latest I created when I realised that what I had done before was for minimum clearances on Straight Tracks.
 
"I decline to groove, as I have the natural rhythm, of a soap-dish."
:):think:
Sir.
 
I groove
You groove
He grooves
She grooves
They groove

We're ALL groovy, Baby! :rofl::rofl::rofl:
Now, where is my LMS maroon Elephant-cord smoking jacket, and cravat??
 
Sarah, if you want to know the distances for LGB double track, it's 165 mm for R1/R2 and 185 mm for R3 upwards, from centre to centre....
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Will that 165 mm spacing handle USA 50' cars or passenger cars without hitting the train on the other track? Seems quite close...

Greg
Click to expand...
You are quite right Greg. I had a R1/R2 curve on my old layout, due to space restrictions, but I am running European NG stock. The 165 mm is from LGB's own geometry. And it worked for me? My new layout will be mostly R3, but I will have to have another R1/R2 curve in one part of the railway, again due to space limitations.

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Of course, if I was running USA trains I would go for R3 or better still R5 curves....
 
I think it's a potential trap, unintended, but people follow the LGB "rules" and then go buy longer cars and then the cars sideswipe.

I find a track to track spacing of a bit over 9" is needed to keep the longest cars from hitting each other, but of course this is 1:29 and 80 foot cars.

I built my layout with clearances for 1:20.3 in terms of height and width... mostly large Mikados are the issue, very few long cars in narrow gauge...

On the 1:29 side, long container cars were the toughest, but I did not try the super long USA Trains auto carriers... they barely make a 10' diameter curve.

Greg
 
So were the palms of your hands folically challenged?
 
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