Keeping it all together

zach2thefuture

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So, this is a pretty simple problem that I'm having; what's the best way to keep track nice and tight?

All my track is quite used and well loved. It's in decent shape, but it's been around the block; especially the connectors. A majority of my track is LGB, while some is...another brand that has these tiiiiiny little set screws on the side of the connectors. Of course, most of the screws my dad used weren't weather proof and they've become little balls of oxidation!

For the LGB pieces, is it as easy as taking some pliers and tightening the connectors up before putting them together?

I've seen these very nice, but annoyingly expensive, screw together track clips by trainli. I'm sure they're great, but it's pretty cost prohibitive for me.

Any other tips, suggestions or smart ideas? I know this is a pretty obvious question, but for something so common I figured asking the audience would provide some interesting and good suggestions!
 
Hullo Zach, you've pretty much answered all your questions.

Remove the fishplates and fit rail clamps. Other makes are available and probably better sourced in the US where you are based. PIKO, and various American makes....
 
Hi Zach,
You can wrangle the LGB slide-on joiners back into some sort of shape with fine pliers, then give them a squeeze (to make a tight push-fit..

Cheap Coke, or even tomato sauce!
Stick the ends of the rail in it overnight, then give it a good rinse.

This will clean the ends of the rail, then then about 'half a pea' of copper-grease / graphite-grease in each joint. - It does not conduct, but stops the air and water getting to your cleaned rail-ends.

You don't want the joints to be too tightly butted-up to each other. There needs to be a little 'wiggle-room'. - The rail will expand when you get some summer sun on it.

Don't fasten it down too much, either. - It will need to move, a little.
Only where clearances are critical, such as entering a bridge, or tunnel portal. - Try to keep these on the straight, if possible.

Enjoy!
PhilP.
 
Ok zach2thefuture zach2thefuture Gizzy and Phil have both given you good sage advice, for my part do you have any of the LGB 11500, these fit into a slot in the centre of the end sleeper on each rail and stop track separating. They tend to include a few in all train sets, was years before I understood what they were for!
 
Ok zach2thefuture zach2thefuture Gizzy and Phil have both given you good sage advice, for my part do you have any of the LGB 11500, these fit into a slot in the centre of the end sleeper on each rail and stop track separating. They tend to include a few in all train sets, was years before I understood what they were for!
Hahaha, WOW, looking up that part number just brought me back 30 years. I never knew what they were, my father never used them; but I remember playing with those little things all the time as a kid!

I definitely don't have them anymore, but I kind of wish I did!
 
Hullo Zach, you've pretty much answered all your questions.

Remove the fishplates and fit rail clamps. Other makes are available and probably better sourced in the US where you are based. PIKO, and various American makes....
Sometimes, the simplest and most obvious methods are the ones we overlook
 
I have drilled downwards through the rail connectors and inserted 2mm stainless steel screws - and it works fine (as good as rail clamps).
 
Ok zach2thefuture zach2thefuture Gizzy and Phil have both given you good sage advice, for my part do you have any of the LGB 11500, these fit into a slot in the centre of the end sleeper on each rail and stop track separating. They tend to include a few in all train sets, was years before I understood what they were for!
Yes Jon, I did thing about those dogbones as I call them, but the sleeper slot is only in LGB and PIKO track, and Zach also has ART track with the grub screws in the fishplates....
 
Yes Jon, I did thing about those dogbones as I call them, but the sleeper slot is only in LGB and PIKO track, and Zach also has ART track with the grub screws in the fishplates....
Yes only any good with LGB sections.
 
I'll definitely be nailing my track down to the wooden supports I have
I think Mick (trammayo) was referring to fishplates Zach, but yes, screwing the track loosely to your wood supports would help.

Just remember to allow for some movement for expansion/contraction so make the nail/screw a sloppy fit in a slightly larger hole....
 
To keep track together nice and tight for track powered operation I use rail clamps direct to the rail, I do not use over the joiner clamps. Trainli in the USA (Reno Nevada) has brass clamps with stainless screws and fit well. Some other vendors may have these also and stainless clamps are also available.
 
Another option that I use is to pinch the fishplate (rail joiner) tight in the middle before fitting. Then a gentle tap with a small hammer will fit nice n tight, next rail will also likely need a gentle tap as well.
 
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