Leaky Otto

3Valve

3Valve

Railways; Air cooled VW's; Soul Music
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I've had a Regner Otto since January, and on the whole, when it runs it's a lovely little piece of kit. But there's the problem, when it runs.

Burner lights OK (they can be difficult), problem is:-

a) The burner doesn't always stay alight
b) if I turn up the gas to get any decent pressure the burner flame extinguishes
c) when I do manage to turn up the gas to a sufficient level, the burner frequently goes out during a run

All in all a very frustrating experience with a not cheap loco. Before I chuck in the towel however I think the problem is with the gas control valve. It leaks gas. As soon as you fill the tank, you can hear the gas seeping out from the control valve. Surely this is why I can't get sufficient burn and why the burner keeps going out.

The other "issue" that occurs is that the gas runs out prematurely (assuming the burner has stayed lit long enough). The Regner vertical boilered loco's are notorious for the gas out-lasting the water supply. Not mine.

So my question is. Should there be an "O" ring or similar within the top nut of the gas control valve to make it properly gas tight, or on the control knob centre shaft? If so where can I obtain such an item?

It certainly appears to me that something fundamental is missing in this area to permit the gas to leak and that has surely got to affect the gas/air mix and or pressure. The piccy below should give an idea of the problem.

_reggvalve600.jpg
 
Gareth, certainly your gas leak isn't helping the length of run. It is simple to fix. The nut below the handle (where your red line is) is adjustable against the packing inside the nut. It probably only needs screwing down a little, 'til the leak stops. If it doesn't stop before it is tight then the gland needs repacking. For that I would use a little plumber's PTFE tape. A short length, twisted into a string, one thickness is probably all that will be required for this small gland. Undo the nut and pull it up the spindle to expose the gland and wrap the string a few times round the spindle, and return the nut and adjust as before.

Good luck.
 
If this a new loco then contact the dealer who sold it to you. If it is 2nd hand contact Roundhouse and show them the picture. It does not look like a standard RH fitting. Roundhouse can provide full spares kits for their locos and can provide details of a service agent near you who can help if it is out of warrenty or not standard spec'. RH are very good on customer service. As a precaution you could also check that there isn't a blockage in the jet (some of your symptoms match this) - pop it in solvent and then blow through with a jet of gas from the pointy end. Do not try to drill it out or use a pin, etc'. Max
 
G-force1 said:
Gareth, certainly your gas leak isn't helping the length of run. It is simple to fix. The nut below the handle (where your red line is) is adjustable against the packing inside the nut. It probably only needs screwing down a little, 'til the leak stops. If it doesn't stop before it is tight then the gland needs repacking. For that I would use a little plumber's PTFE tape. A short length, twisted into a string, one thickness is probably all that will be required for this small gland. Undo the nut and pull it up the spindle to expose the gland and wrap the string a few times round the spindle, and return the nut and adjust as before.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

That would explain a lot. There is no packing inside the nut. :)
 
maxi-model said:
If this a new loco then contact the dealer who sold it to you. If it is 2nd hand contact Roundhouse and show them the picture. It does not look like a standard RH fitting. Roundhouse can provide full spares kits for their locos and can provide details of a service agent near you who can help if it is out of warrenty or not standard spec'. RH are very good on customer service. As a precaution you could also check that there isn't a blockage in the jet (some of your symptoms match this) - pop it in solvent and then blow through with a jet of gas from the pointy end. Do not try to drill it out or use a pin, etc'. Max
Click to expand...

Gas jet seems OK Max, and has been given a clean on the advice of the dealer when I bought it. But I'll give it another soak and a blow in any event. Can't do any harm. If no joy after that, I'll get on to Glendale as it's still under warranty,
 
Hi Gareth. There certainly should not be any gas leaking, I had to tighten mine a little bit but there wasn't a really noticeable leak. I think there should be some packing in there though I haven't taken mine apart similar Regner fittings use PTFE packing packing. Certainly when my one's gas tank is full it lasts twice as long as a single boiler full.
I would check with Glendale regardless.
 
Hi Gareth
A little silicone grease on the shaft as well as the PTFE will help, should allow easier control.

Shaun
 
OK folks, success I think. Stripped down the whole gas system form the control valve to the burner and gave everything a good clean. Thoroughly dried everything off, blasted it all the components through with air, packed the gland nut with PTFE, greased the shaft and put it all back together (also PTFE'd every thread on re-assembly).

Got a 35 min run on blocks in the shed. Burner remained lit throughout. Refilled the water twice with burner still running (no way I could do that before), and no issues when everything had warmed up (previously burner would go out and be near impossible to re-light). Major improvement.

 
Well done now to try it under load in service.

Shaun
 
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