LGB 2-4-0

[Tim Brien]

I always considered the LGB 'American Porter' (as it was then called), to be rather dumpy. It really needed a pilot truck to be 'American'. Using modified LGB parts, the pilot truck and extended cowcatcher/pilot beam are not iout of character (in my opinion). The pilot wheels and cowcatcher will be painted black when I purchase some paint.

 

[Tim Brien]

I tested the loco for about an hour in both directions and the pilot wheels tracked perfectly. I do run ten foot diameter curves, so R1 may be an issue as more swing clearance would be needed for the pilot truck.

 

[DoctorM]

I think what you have done really improves the overall look of the locomotive.

Some years ago an American modeller had done the same to thing to the Toytrain Porter saddle tank (but as I recall he went even further and made it a 2-4-2).
I saved a picture of it on a memory stick, but I can't find the stick or the web-site now.

 

[stevedenver]

tim
thats great-
can you give me soem details so i can copy
which pilot wheel (2080?) and which arm, how did you extend the deck for the pilot, etc

makes it nicer indeed
maybe ill even get the nerve to chop down the domes and replace with brass rounded ones from trackside details

 

[Tim Brien]

Steve,
corect, a swing arm from a #2080 loco. I had to modify it by trimming to fit and then flipping over before mounting. This is to get clearance under the smokestack mounting nut. I trimmed the 'plow' section from the front of the snow plow as I needed to keep this moulding to firstly, have a means of 'locking' the smokestack mounting nut and secondly, as a retention for the steam chest saddle.

To extend the cowcatcher, I needed a second moulding. The cowcatcher part was cut from the moulding leaving the pilot beam and the tang that fits into the front of the loco chassis. The pilot beam was then trimmed down each side to allow the pilot wheels to swing.

On the second cowcatcher moulding, the mount tang on the rear was cut off and both pieces were then temporarily joined on the underside with a soldering iron. The plastic cannot be glued. Five minute Araldite (epoxy joiner glue) was then used to fill the voids on the underside. This gives a relatively strong join. After curing, the underside was relieved with a half round file to give more wheel clearance. If using R1 curves then more clearance will be needed. When installing the smokestack, I found that a spacer is needed where the stack contacts the headlamp mount bracket (see photo). This is to minimise how far the smokestack threaded section extends through the bottom of the loco, ensuring clearance for the swing arm.

At present the smokestack does not function as I need to 'hardwire' it as clearances are minimal. Today I will be doing a second loco as I feel the look is enhanced.

 

[Tim Brien]

This time an 'R1' capable locomotive. To enable R1 capability exaggerated overhang required on the pilot/cowcatcher to give the required swing clearance for the pilot truck. The cowcatcher extension in my case, since I had spares, required three cowcatcher mouldings. A scratchbuilder could easily do with less, but for me, this was the simplest method.

The cowcatcher pieces were temporarily 'welded' together with a soldering iron and then drilled through all pieces to provide a pathway for the reinforcing epoxy filler (Araldite). The underside was then filled with epoxy and allowed to cure. The area was then dressed up and a thin body putty filler applied. This will then be painted black.

The lead truck is also from a LGB #2080 loco (I cannot remember if a leading or trailing truck, but it is different to the truck used in the first build. This truck enabled a longer swing radius thus giving greater swing to allow R1 clearances.
As on the previous build, the pilot truck required modification to fit. The truck is actually installed upside down and the point chosen for the pivot is actually the original loop coupler mount.

 

[Tim Brien]

As in the first build, a spacer is required at the base of the stack where it contacts the headlamp mount bracket (see photo). This is to minimise the amount of visible thread protruding through the smokestack mount nut to allow truck swing clearance. Also, to enable a working smokestack, the unit will need to be 'hardwired' as there is insufficient clearance to fit the metal tab that forms the electrical circuit on the underside of the smokestack. A dab of paint and we will be ready to roll.
If required, Aristo or USA Trains carbon brush power pickups could be easily fitted to the front of the pilot truck. If running with a powered tender, with the umbilical connector installed, these pickups are not really necessary.

 

[vsmith]

I'm kinda chuckling at the description, I consider this engine to be about as "American" as the Flying Scotsman, its just sooooooo European, it cannot hide its O & K roots no matter how many "American" ammenities EPL stuck onto it. That said the extended pilot does help, maybe redo the steel Euro cabs with some American wood cabs? maybe not.

 

[Tim Brien]

Vic,
now come on, LGB would not lie would they of the heritage of this loco? The #2017 was advertised as the first 'American' loco that they made. They even had catalogues with yellow D&RGW coaches behind them. The Mogul did not come until several years later. An actual 'Rio Grande' Mogul did not arrive until the early 2000's. No wooden cabs for these locomotives.

On a serious note, unhappy with the longitudinal strength of the extended pilot, I drilled and inserted 1/8" steel rod either side. This has considerably reinforced the strength should the cowcatcher hit something head on.

 

[vsmith]

Vic,
now come on, LGB would not lie would they of the heritage of this loco?

As I like to say: Yeah, and I'm a Chinese Test Pilot!

 

[Don Gilham]

Nice job Tim

 

[themole]

Tim, looks good, to answer Vic, O&K did export locos to the Americas, many South American countries had them, along with British, U.S. and other German manufacturers offerings.(see pictures below) Alyn

 

[stevedenver]

great pics Tim
really helps-worth a thousand words

i covet thy LGB yellow tender and if you would like to entertain offers email me-i have sought that particular version a long time- i really love the yellow ones...

i think the biggest changes that affect the US look of this loco, that i have seen with other modelers, are cab and domes-once those have been changed-it looks far more plausible -obviously there are other features, smoke box door and cylinders, whsitel, bells etc , but those 2 are the ones for me
but, i tend to keep things stock not out of laziness but really because the stock stuff is so durable for handling and weather

but i too agree that the import O and K type locos have thier own look, and i have seen these here in the US-
theres a particulalry similar one, at the Forney Museum here in Denver-has a saw toothed edge on a large ballon style, like an old steamboat style stack (added im certain to make it look US, as it came from an amusment part as I recall) , spectacle type windows and is red and green, with a US cow catcher-and unfortunately i have no pics to post of it

 

[themole]

Here is the said loco at the Forney Museum Denver. Alyn

 

[Tim Brien]

Last night, I installed smokebox stayrods to further reinforce the extended pilot.

Alyn,
you never cease to amaze with your photo collection.

Steve,
alas, I only have two tenders left (one red and the yellow one) and I have many, many Lake George & Boulder rolling stock that require motive power. It never occurred to me previously, but the yellow tenders are rarely seen on eBay.

 

[Tim Brien]

Locomotive on trial.

 

[Tim Brien]

Smokebox stayrods greatly improve extended pilot strength.

 

[stevedenver]

nice looking train -i love those short us style cars
the red looks wonderful too

been thinking of a plan on mine Tim, -perhaps this Sunday ...

 

[Tim Brien]

Steve,
the hardest part of any LGB modification is that first hacksaw cut to the surface. After that it is all downhill. The most common mod is to replace the four wheel underframes to a more prototypical eight wheel underframe. In the early days, many American railroads did use four wheel rolling stock, but this was a very short timeframe.

I also converted six LG&B water transport cars as well (the four wheel oil tanker body) as well as several yellow coaches. All my coaches started life as the four wheel European style (the clerestory roof was not added until 1993). At present I am building a crew transfer caboose. I thought that this would be a simple conversion, but alas the caboose body is 3/16" narrower than the coach body. This necessitated cutting the clerestory roof moulding to fit. I still need to fit the catwalks.

 

[Tim Brien]

American railroads utilised 'transfer cabeese' to move train crew around (as well as the normal caboose when attached to a freight train). Starting with a caboose, I thought that it would be a simple conversion to a transfer caboose using a coach clerestory roof moulding. Not so simple. The caboose body is 3/16" narrower than the coach body so the roof was not a direct install. I narrowed the roof and installed pins either end to support the upper end of the ladders at each end. Catwalks still need to be fitted and roof painted silver.

Intent was another piece of rolling stock that complimented the coaches with their clerestory roofline. In practice the transfer caboose would have had a simpler roofline.