LGB 2020D STAINZ STEAM 0-4-0 LOCO - Maintenance

D

davecar

Registered
Hi all,

I have recently bought a 10 year old LGB Stainz loco and it is a good runner and I am pleased with it. I have oiled the external valves and pistons but nothing else. I am keen to keep it running well. Is there anything else that I can do in order to keep it running well.

Many thanks,

Dave
 
not sure theres much more to do. they are a good sturdy, strong, and very reliable little locomotive. had one in the familly for years and no problems. good old lgb!!!!
 
I think that's about all you need do mate if it runs good with no undue current draw then internally it's fine, just enjoy!!
 
i have one of the latter sound stainz and it runs jerky,,,, not had a look yet but any tips welcome,,

davey b
 
Don't want to hijack the thread at all, I have an old stainz, with plastic valve guides and no smoke or sound. There is no sticker underneath, but on the rear buffer beam is printed 10.2.76. Is this printed on all or is this anything to do with it's year of being made at all?
Such a smooth runner, and quite powerful for such a small loco.
 
daveyb said:
i have one of the latter sound stainz and it runs jerky,,,, not had a look yet but any tips welcome,,

davey b
Click to expand...

Check and clean all the pickups onto the wheels and make sure the skates are free and not sticking.
 
When you eventually have to disassemble the Stainz, you may want to place a sound card inside. I used a "mylocosound" placed on the cabin floor with speaker stuck onto the roof. While the Stainz was apart you can easily find the wires you need as well as add more lead weight if you need it. My old Stainz will pull a train of 8 feet long with no trouble up a hill of 1 in 5. Although I prefer smaller length trains.
If you need more information use your search engine and look for Paul Stainz Holt. He is the "guru" on Stainz & has been a great help to me when I bought my 1st Stainz. I now have 3, but would like 2 more to make a Fairly or small Garratt.

Regards from Andre at Sandbar & Mudcab Railway
 
well if it runs its probably fine

if youre like me tho you must tinker so have it bristol fashion
i often see lots of micro grit and dirt-this will cause more wear soooooooo

heres  some other items since you asked

1 i prefer graphite for external gears and rods-doesn't attract oil-thoroughly clean the protrusions onto which the rods fit and all other parts-remember the order of bushings and lock washers -a drop of oil on the rod bosses(?) the part that the rod fits onto is good-(LGB oil, as i understnad things,  is in fact automatic transmission fluid) 

2 depending on condition-one can disassemble and wash with detergent the whole thing but the motor (and other electrical parts-like boards)-remove all old grease and oil-dirty or dull red wheels can be brightened sometimes by using a mild bath kitchen type abrasive and toothbrush 

be mindful of the tiny thrust ball bearings at each end of the motor in the motor block- dont lose them and replace them if yours has them-if its a clamshell motor block it will


3 polish the wheels and wheel backs -often there is much dirt and wear-this can really help- i power up and use a q tip and metal polish-then clean the residue  


4 using lgb or other heavy lube-clean the old lube if stiff or pushed to the side, lube the worm gear insidethe motor block  -modestly 

if you like a gentle plastic polish can even out rough plastic or marred paint to some extent-clean all residue -dont use meths-i find it leaves a very difficult to remove white haze residue on the black plastic especially-use lighter fluid or water with a tiny touch of liquid detergent and then rinse with clean water 

check headlight/ tail light receptacles for corrosion and clean with metal polish and clean all residue-same if your loco has rear socket holes-for this i use a pipe cleaner and metal polish-im fond of the german polish simichrome 

  5 check and replace worn or uneven pick up brushes-mind you they are sprung against the wheels-use care when removing the wheels-otherwise they go into orbit-work over a towel to reduce bounce
-yours may be screw onto axel type wheels-use the same care and gentleness when replacing as the brushes are brittle- if sold wheel and axel sets use more care not to guillotine the brucsh when setting the axel into the bloc housng-i do one side at a time and use a fine screw driver to push teh brush beyond the wheel back face

check for proper quartering before you re-assemble (this is a real pain on the old clamshells if you dont get it right)-ie both wheels on one side at say 6 oclock -this needs to be pretty accurate for perfect results 
-
replace worn shoes too-make sure they float and travel freely-a bit of graphite powder can really help
replace smoke unit if you need

repaint faded yellow bulb paint if needed-and if its really old-perhaps touch up headlamp reflector paint if it has chipped-or yellowed  -and you think it appropriate

always bear in mind that it never takes forces-if it does go back and reassess

hows that?
 
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