LGB 20630 - Good Humor - Easy sound ?

PachangaDad

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Hi everyone,
I recently acquired a couple of LGB Diesel locomotives, all probably same vintage from 2006 as the 20630 - Amerikanische Diesllok models
This particular one is the 20630 supporting MTZ / DCC , from decoder icon on the bottom, of the #70634 - Good Humor set. It runs and lights work :)

After figuring out how to open it up, I was able to further investigate with pictures.
Not sure if this the defacto LGB 55020 board or not. See refence picture.
20250217_181817240_iOS.jpg


The top side view is reflecting various posts and cable adaptions, which from the documentation matches from what I've found on the LGB 55020. referring to dip switches, etc.

1739817609037.png

Nothing that spells out I'd be able to adapt any sound easily.

My question to the group here in hopes to find an easy adaption for sound in the following priorities.
1. Adapt sound of a Diesel locomotive project, quick easy and low budget to existing board ?
2. replace board with an ESU Loksound 5 XL to accommodate all existing functions front , rear and interior lights, run DC & DCC, with sound. minimizing cutting connectors if possible.


I am also contemplating implementing battery at some time. But that is for another future effort.

First and foremost is getting sound working in some form with DC for now.
Any wisdom and insight would be greatly appreciated .

Birger
 
Hi Birger. This is only my opinion of which there will be plenty of other people with their own view of course but here goes; I've never worked on one of these loco's although I did install a 55021 decoder in two different generation Stainz Loco's (no sound), one was solder the wires in and the other had a board in which I could simply plug the LGB factory decoder into the board which is very similar to your photos. I can also see from your photo there are posts for attaching (I think) a sound module or speaker BUT it's unlikely it'll be controlled from the decoder as found on modern loco's (unless I'm mistaken). Also I'm assuming you have an MTS or DCC controller already? Anyway that's about the extent of what I can see from the photo. Hope that helps.

Unless you're an LGB purist (and slightly unhinged about old LGB stuff like me), you're probably better off installing a modern ESU decoder which works out the box but you'll be soldering and tracing what those various wires are for exactly like you say for track power, motor and lights etc plus you'll need to mount everything including the speaker although you've got plenty of space. Lastly, you could just take the easy route and locate an original decoder that plugs into that board and just enjoy the locomotive as it is and not worry about sound. I picked up two old/new in the box 55021's when I was in the States last year for $50USD each, the plug in was uber easy and I'm really happy with result and the two Stainz's simply trundle around the track with only the whir of the motor and clack of the wheels over track joints. Thinking about it I might actually record the sounds for playback when I go to bed, like white noise sending a maniac to sleep. Sorry, went off topic.

Anyway, my point is sometimes the best is the enemy of the good and finding a plug in original decoder will also keep your locomotive nice and original. Just my two penny's worth.
 
Hi Birger. This is only my opinion of which there will be plenty of other people with their own view of course but here goes; I've never worked on one of these loco's although I did install a 55021 decoder in two different generation Stainz Loco's (no sound), one was solder the wires in and the other had a board in which I could simply plug the LGB factory decoder into the board which is very similar to your photos. I can also see from your photo there are posts for attaching (I think) a sound module or speaker BUT it's unlikely it'll be controlled from the decoder as found on modern loco's (unless I'm mistaken). Also I'm assuming you have an MTS or DCC controller already? Anyway that's about the extent of what I can see from the photo. Hope that helps.

Unless you're an LGB purist (and slightly unhinged about old LGB stuff like me), you're probably better off installing a modern ESU decoder which works out the box but you'll be soldering and tracing what those various wires are for exactly like you say for track power, motor and lights etc plus you'll need to mount everything including the speaker although you've got plenty of space. Lastly, you could just take the easy route and locate an original decoder that plugs into that board and just enjoy the locomotive as it is and not worry about sound. I picked up two old/new in the box 55021's when I was in the States last year for $50USD each, the plug in was uber easy and I'm really happy with result and the two Stainz's simply trundle around the track with only the whir of the motor and clack of the wheels over track joints. Thinking about it I might actually record the sounds for playback when I go to bed, like white noise sending a maniac to sleep. Sorry, went off topic.

Anyway, my point is sometimes the best is the enemy of the good and finding a plug in original decoder will also keep your locomotive nice and original. Just my two penny's worth.
Hi Rob,
Thank you for your guidance to my quest :). After just checking /researching #55021, it appears to be another animal all together.
My board provides no ability for any decoder to connect to it via a plug.
Wish LGB would provide or at least post their old documentation for us historical collection folks.
I may just bite the bullet and install the ESU Loksound Decoder 58513 and have my freedom all together.
Thank you
Birger
 
From the photos you have posted a 55021,or Massoth equivalent, will just plug in..
But, no sound.
Removing the original board, and wiring to a new, modern sound decoder would be the other option.

PhilP.
 
Hi everyone,
I recently acquired a couple of LGB Diesel locomotives, all probably same vintage from 2006 as the 20630 - Amerikanische Diesllok models
This particular one is the 20630 supporting MTZ / DCC , from decoder icon on the bottom, of the #70634 - Good Humor set. It runs and lights work :)

After figuring out how to open it up, I was able to further investigate with pictures.
Not sure if this the defacto LGB 55020 board or not. See refence picture.
View attachment 339016


The top side view is reflecting various posts and cable adaptions, which from the documentation matches from what I've found on the LGB 55020. referring to dip switches, etc.

View attachment 339018

Nothing that spells out I'd be able to adapt any sound easily.

My question to the group here in hopes to find an easy adaption for sound in the following priorities.
1. Adapt sound of a Diesel locomotive project, quick easy and low budget to existing board ?
2. replace board with an ESU Loksound 5 XL to accommodate all existing functions front , rear and interior lights, run DC & DCC, with sound. minimizing cutting connectors if possible.


I am also contemplating implementing battery at some time. But that is for another future effort.

First and foremost is getting sound working in some form with DC for now.
Any wisdom and insight would be greatly appreciated .

Birger
Not sure what system if battery you intend to fit but there are a couple Stateside that may do for you, I fitted one of these for battery operation for a friend using the Piko 35040 system.
I fitted it to a My Loco Sound unit that gave 2 calling sounds and the general diesel sound. One of these may suit your needs now if you intend to pull the existing stuff out, I think it can also be linked to a Piko sound decoder but check that up first.
 
Adapt sound of a Diesel locomotive project, quick easy and low budget to existing board ?

While this (adding sound to a DC loco) appears to be your primary requirement, you also suggest you might want to "go DCC" or convert to battery in due course. And the solutions may well be different for each.

The stickers on the underside of your model show that it is DC, but includes the option to add an LGB 55021 decoder as a simple plug-in to the existing board ("Direct Decoder").

For adding sound on DC operation, have you considered 65003 (not exactly "low cost" but designed for simplicity).


You might need to add a power storage item (e.g. LGB 65011) if you want standing sound on DC (more cost!) . . .


1739899944608.png

The sound unit (but not the power storage item) would remain viable if you "went DCC" . . . but many (including me) would suggest removing the existing circuit board, and adding an integrated sound decoder, such as a Massoth LS. Options under "batteryfication" are different (and not something I feel competent to advise on).

Cheers

David
 

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Page 5 of this service manual shows the wiring for your unit.

https://www.onlytrains.com/manuals/22630p-1.pdf

Overall, I'd suggest contacting LGB to see if they can provide guidance. Contact Form | LGB Websites

1. It is not clear to me how you would connect a sound board to your existing board to operate the sound board in analog (DC) mode. You could get power to the board via the 24V and Gnd connector near the word "Sound". I'd put a meter on that to see if that voltage varies and therbye gives you variable engine sound based on the track power. You would also need to connect a reed switch to trigger sounds via track magnets. It looks like the existing board might have a power buffer and if so, the standing sounds may simply work. Again, I'd considerr reaching out to LGB.

2. To add a sound board in DCC mode, you need somenting like a Massoth eMotion LS AllAboutLGB: Massoth eMOTION LS Sound Decoder or similar ESU decoder. This would give you both motor driving capability, control of the lights, and sound. I don't see how you could operate a sound only board in DCC simultaneously with Analog motor and lights.

My inclination would be to lose the existing board and connect a sound and driving DCC decoder directly to the four pins on the motor block and then connect the exsiting lighting wiring to the decoder. I think you could find connectors that would preclude cuting wires, albeit cutting wires is no big deal.

In theory, there should be a way to connect a decoder to the exisitng board but LGB does not make it easy to know how to do that.

Accoding to this link AllAboutLGB: Massoth and LGB® Decoder Installation and your "Direct Decoder" sticker, you should be able to use the Massioth 10 pin conector. But again just how that works is unclear to me. If you try to contact Mohammed at AllAboutLGB.Com, he may be slow to respond due to health issues.

Another resource is Greg Elmassian. He is on this fourm and also had his own web site with a bunch of DCC info. DCC
 
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While this (adding sound to a DC loco) appears to be your primary requirement, you also suggest you might want to "go DCC" or convert to battery in due course. And the solutions may well be different for each.

The stickers on the underside of your model show that it is DC, but includes the option to add an LGB 55021 decoder as a simple plug-in to the existing board ("Direct Decoder").

For adding sound on DC operation, have you considered 65003 (not exactly "low cost" but designed for simplicity).


You might need to add a power storage item (e.g. LGB 65011) if you want standing sound on DC (more cost!) . . .


View attachment 339082

The sound unit (but not the power storage item) would remain viable if you "went DCC" . . . but many (including me) would suggest removing the existing circuit board, and adding an integrated sound decoder, such as a Massoth LS. Options under "batteryfication" are different (and not something I feel competent to advise on).

Cheers

David
It looks like a Marklin MFX-DCC decoder that I replaced with Massoth XLS so as to have good sound and other functions
 
While this (adding sound to a DC loco) appears to be your primary requirement, you also suggest you might want to "go DCC" or convert to battery in due course. And the solutions may well be different for each.

The stickers on the underside of your model show that it is DC, but includes the option to add an LGB 55021 decoder as a simple plug-in to the existing board ("Direct Decoder").

For adding sound on DC operation, have you considered 65003 (not exactly "low cost" but designed for simplicity).


You might need to add a power storage item (e.g. LGB 65011) if you want standing sound on DC (more cost!) . . .


View attachment 339082

The sound unit (but not the power storage item) would remain viable if you "went DCC" . . . but many (including me) would suggest removing the existing circuit board, and adding an integrated sound decoder, such as a Massoth LS. Options under "batteryfication" are different (and not something I feel competent to advise on).

Cheers

David

I would not recommend going the LGB 65003 route.

You are stuck with one set of sounds and no more. You are also stuck with the LGB speaker versus choosing your own to place anywhere you want.

Installing a regular sound decoder like a Massoth LS (The S is no longer made) is just as easy (reqiuires connecting the same two wires) and you have the option to pick fom the 35+ diesel sound sets they offer. If you decide to repurpose it for stem, you can reproramme it with 35+ steam sounds or electric sounds. It would also be there as full decoder if you decide to go DCC for the motor and lights.
 
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