LGB 69272 Lake George & Boulder Tender won't stop clanging
- Thread starter DaveH
- Start date
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
In early DCC days..
This could be F2 set to toggle, rather than momentary. - But would depend on which function the bell is activated by?
I would think the reed-switch, or its wiring could be trapped / shorted somewhere. - A three-wire lead, running from the board in the motor-block, to the circuit board.
If you are lucky, two black, one brown wire (for identification).
If not, three black, and you might have to investigate a little harder.
PhilP
This could be F2 set to toggle, rather than momentary. - But would depend on which function the bell is activated by?
I would think the reed-switch, or its wiring could be trapped / shorted somewhere. - A three-wire lead, running from the board in the motor-block, to the circuit board.
If you are lucky, two black, one brown wire (for identification).
If not, three black, and you might have to investigate a little harder.
PhilP
I unplugged the two black one brown lead from the PCB and it stopped the constant clanging. So now I need to figure out how to get it working properly.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Could still be a trapped wire shorting brown to one of the blacks?
If you have a meter...
You can check for a short-circuit between brown and a black on the wires going into the motor-block.
Don't force your meter probes into the connector. Either a couple of offcuts of fine wire, or a couple of dress-making pins, will give you a connection into the connector.
To get to the board :
Cradle the loco on your lap, and remove the screws along the centre-line of the motor-block. - Note their order and size.
Ease the bottom off the block.
You should see a (roughly H-shaped board, which has the reed-switches on it.
PhilP
Okay, I think I got it figured out thanks to all your suggestions. I checked for a short between the brown and black wires and there was no short. I decided to open the motor block and pulled out the reed switch board. Cleaned a little oil off of it and put it back in. Put it back on the track and no more constant clanging. The bell now rings only when it passes over the sound trigger magnet.
My new problem is when I reverse the sound trigger magnet, I don't get the whistle sound. I think I just need to buy a new reed switch board.
My new problem is when I reverse the sound trigger magnet, I don't get the whistle sound. I think I just need to buy a new reed switch board.
I wish I was more knowledgeable on electronics. How do I go about shorting the reed switches in turn?
I did put a different reed switch in the tender from another similar tender and the whistle and bell both worked fine. I'm guessing the whistle side of the switch has an issue.
Thank you so much for your help and responsiveness from across the pond.
I did put a different reed switch in the tender from another similar tender and the whistle and bell both worked fine. I'm guessing the whistle side of the switch has an issue.
Thank you so much for your help and responsiveness from across the pond.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Clip wires onto the skates for power..
The reed is inside the glass envelope, if you connect one end to the other, you are shorting out the reed-switch in the glass envelope.
PhilP
stevedenver
Registered
Reed switch.
they are delicate.
you can unsolder and replace. Straightforward but, was tricky, for me. I cracked 2 replacements in the process.
replacement board..sure thing.
it is my experience that very strong track magnets can result in a permanent closed reed switch.
they are delicate.
you can unsolder and replace. Straightforward but, was tricky, for me. I cracked 2 replacements in the process.
replacement board..sure thing.
it is my experience that very strong track magnets can result in a permanent closed reed switch.