LGB and Piko track together ?

Mattawa

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Hello there !
Can I use LGB and Piko G scale track together ? These tracks seem very similar.
Many thanks in advance for all your replies.
 

playmofire

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The short answer is "Yes", but |(and there is always a but) I understand that Piko points differ from LGB ones. Someone more knowledgeable than me will explain further.
 

Zerogee

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Yes, you can; almost all the makes of Code 332 track can be freely intermixed (LGB, Piko, Aristo, Trainline45, Thiel, Heyn, USAT, AMS and others). I think Playmo's reply above refers to the fact that the track geometry can be different between brands (ie: curves may not be the same radius, points may be different lengths and so on), but that doesn't stop them all be inter-connectable.

Oh, and welcome to GSC! :)

Jon.

EDIT: PS: what you WILL find is that even while most makes will happily fit together, there may be some visual differences - sleeper shape, colour and spacing (for example, LGB sleepers are quite rounded compared with Piko ones that are very square-edged, Aristo sleepers are black rather than brown, and so on), and the colour of the brass used can also vary - Aristo rail is more of a yellow-golden colour and tends to stay that way, most others are more "brassy" looking and tarnish faster when used outside.
 
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Rhinochugger

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Aristo rail is more of a yellow-golden colour and tends to stay that way, ..............

.........tends to stay that way longer :nerd::nerd::nerd:

It tones down eventually :nod::nod:
 

idlemarvel

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The short answer is "Yes", but |(and there is always a but) I understand that Piko points differ from LGB ones. Someone more knowledgeable than me will explain further.
The PIKO and LGB R1 points are slightly different, the straight bit is 320mm long on the PIKO but only 300mm on the LGB, otherwise the same. You can mix and match PIKO and LGB track to your heart's content, even the point motors are interchangeable. My indoor layout is about 50:50 LGB and PIKO. The LGB sleepers look more like narrow gauge sleepers, well worn and grooved, the PIKO ones more like standard gauge, but you hardly notice the difference unless you are looking for it.
 
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playmofire

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The PIKO and LGB R1 points are slightly different, the straight bit is 320mm long on the PIKO but only 300mm on the LGB, otherwise the same. You can mix and match PIKO and LGB track to your heart's content, even the point motors are interchangeable. My indoor layout is about 50:50 LGB and PIKO. The LGB sleepers look more like narrow gauge sleepers, well worn and grooved, the PIKO ones more like standard gauge, but you hardly notice the difference unless you are looking for it.

That's what I was thinking of Dave, but wasn't sure of the details.
 

Mattawa

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Thanks for all your replies. They are very helpful. I only plan to use three short LGB straight track (150 mm) as you can see below:LGB straight track.jpg
 

idlemarvel

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Although that track plan will make the circle slightly bigger, the short straight sections will cause the train to "jink" as it goes from curve to straight to curve so quickly. It might be better to have a continuous circle. Try it before you nail the track down. Just a thought. Cheers, Dave
 
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Mattawa

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Thanks Dave. I cancel my project and keep my money for something else...in G scale of course. :)
 

PhilP

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Could you not put a short straight in each quadrant? - Or perhaps two straights opposite each other to make a 'short' oval?
 
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stockers

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or add the odd R2 curve
 
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Mattawa

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idlemarvel

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If that is your constraint I would definitely stick to the basic R1 circle. Better to have a little bit more space between the outer rail and the edge of the board.
 

playmofire

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Maybe here Piko track could come in. Don't Piko make a curved point which would allow one or two (depending on the number of curved points used) sidings inside the main circle? Or are these only in the larger radii?