JungleSkipper
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LGB Chloe replacement worm gear
- Thread starter JungleSkipper
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JungleSkipper
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I've found the exploded model diagram (https://static.maerklin.de/damcontent/1b/61/1b61f94e743d16c53e3fd03125a5ac611464875258.pdf) and it looks to be part 17 with model number E195 895 which I can buy for 30eur. However, all the pictures are showing it with the missing belt drive cog. Does anyone know if that is normal?
JungleSkipper
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Mine is the belt drive. I can get this direct from LGB however there is no picture.
SevenOfDiamonds
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[written before your latest response]
Following on from the previous response, I think there were two versions of Chloe (20130 and 23131) and two versions of Olomana (23130 and 23132).
20130 was made in pre-Marklin days, so they won't offer any spares (or even part numbers) for that. I'm reading that 23131 was announced (and promised for delivery) in 2017, but actually delivered in 2018. The LGB website ofers an exploded diagram for 23131 showing (correctly or otherwise) a belt . . .
. . . offering these part numbers . . .
The LGB website then suggests that both "Radsatz" are available (at a price!) . . .
. . . but fails to show a picture (that I would have thought was necessary to satisfy yourself that my researches are valid).
There was a time (just after Brexit kicked in) that LGB wouldn't supply to the UK but I now see that they now show a shipping cost (19.95 EUR) to "Great Britain", so maybe they've relented.
Failing that, Peter Skinner at Chalk Garden Rail is LGB's warranty repair agent, so may be able to get what you need if you want to save on postage charges (and may be able to give you the assurance that the one of the part numbers above is actually what you want).
I hope I've not led you astray with this advice. Maybe you should start by confirming product number of the loco you've got, and/or the date shown on the gold circular sticker.
Good luck
Best wishes
David
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JungleSkipper
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Thanks for your research! I have the L23131 so will be looking at 48Eur + shipping to replace the part - that does seem pretty steep. I could probably 3D print the gear but then have the problem of fitting it onto the axle.
I'll give Chalk Garden Rail a call when they open. The train is only 3 years old so it's odd that this part has failed, but it's a metal drive gear to a plastic one so i guess it was only time.
Marklin went to a drive shaft between the axles and added a different motor. I fixed one chloe that had strange intermittent issues with running smooth and not starting to run. I found that Marklin used a motor with small holes for the round motor leads and were not soldered. over time this made the motor lead holes enlarge and loose contact with the motor leads. I soldered the motor leads to the pins and engine now runs real smooth. Unfortunately the whole motor block now appears different from the original Chloe to me. Good change is the metal wheels on the floating (pony) truck.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
stevedenver
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I love the frr locos.
The problem with these field locomotives, be it the driveshaft or belt drive versions, is that only one axle takes the entire load of the motor worm gear. The second gear, connected by the belt or by the driveshaft is only turned by the rear axle.
Simply, compared to every other lgb locomotive, these are delicate.
If you’re lucky enough to have a diesel, you can swap axles, but if you have a steam locomotive, the boss on the rear driver is longer to accommodate multiple drive rods, whereas the boss on the front driver is shorter. They are not interchangeable.
The fix is to simply replace the axle, which you discovered, is pricey.
The strongest recommendation I can make is not to overload these locomotives. Long ago, I had a conversation with LGB USA , and they insisted that 2 to 3 field railway cars was the top load these locomotives can bear. I do not add weight to my locomotives, (other than a small wad of lead wall in the Smokebox to prevent ‘wheelies’ in the chloes and olomanos). In fact, I have several of the first version field railway diesels. They have a massive lead weight inside, which will prevent the locomotive from slipping. I removed this weight because it is so large that the locomotive and the worm gears are bound to wear out, even running the locomotive light.
These locomotives should be allowed to slip in order to avoid the excessive gear that you experienced. Also, I do not run the locomotive more than 20 to 30 minutes, as the motors get hot with or without load I hope this helps.
The problem with these field locomotives, be it the driveshaft or belt drive versions, is that only one axle takes the entire load of the motor worm gear. The second gear, connected by the belt or by the driveshaft is only turned by the rear axle.
Simply, compared to every other lgb locomotive, these are delicate.
If you’re lucky enough to have a diesel, you can swap axles, but if you have a steam locomotive, the boss on the rear driver is longer to accommodate multiple drive rods, whereas the boss on the front driver is shorter. They are not interchangeable.
The fix is to simply replace the axle, which you discovered, is pricey.
The strongest recommendation I can make is not to overload these locomotives. Long ago, I had a conversation with LGB USA , and they insisted that 2 to 3 field railway cars was the top load these locomotives can bear. I do not add weight to my locomotives, (other than a small wad of lead wall in the Smokebox to prevent ‘wheelies’ in the chloes and olomanos). In fact, I have several of the first version field railway diesels. They have a massive lead weight inside, which will prevent the locomotive from slipping. I removed this weight because it is so large that the locomotive and the worm gears are bound to wear out, even running the locomotive light.
These locomotives should be allowed to slip in order to avoid the excessive gear that you experienced. Also, I do not run the locomotive more than 20 to 30 minutes, as the motors get hot with or without load I hope this helps.