When running against the switch setting, freight cars consistently derail. Not a problem with heavier engines or large passenger cars. Seems as though the cars are light enough for the switch spring to pop the freight cars off the track. This is an indoor layout and I'd rather solve this without adding a lot of weight to the lighter cars. Thanks for your assistance, this is my first effort at a layout.
LGB Freight Cars Derail On Manual LGB Switch
- Thread starter JamesW
- Start date
Greg Elmassian
Guest
sorry, add weight or make it an electric switch... common question, no magic solution.
Greg
Greg
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
Lubricate the little metal plates that the switches slide on. Won't always work, but there will be less derailments.
If you feel competent enough, disassemble the throw mechanism, and check that it is not gummed up.
Oh, welcome aboard. Ah, when you win the lottery, replace the wheels with metal ones.
If you feel competent enough, disassemble the throw mechanism, and check that it is not gummed up.
Oh, welcome aboard. Ah, when you win the lottery, replace the wheels with metal ones.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Or a lighter spring.
You seem to have identified the problem yourself, just a case of determining how you wish to solve it.
Oh, and welcome to the forum
Welcome to the forum, you do not say if the points are older or second hand. If so a pull apart and clean up may help. Oh take pictures at each process before removing bits so as you pull it apart so that you can get it all back together again. But as said by others Metal Wheels are likely to be your best fried as a solution, Bachmann are somewhat cheeper than LgB and entirely compatible.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Welcome!
Check your back-to-back measurements..
Check the switch moves freely..
Check wheels run freely..
Check axles/bogies/trucks have a little play in the pivots, and pivot freely..
Metal wheels are good..
Check hooks (if using hook and loop) centre nicely, and sit at a consistent height..
Check track is level ACROSS the turnout..
Look for any distortion in second-hand track..
Avoid reverse curves.. A short straight, before a curve in the other direction..
PhilP.
Check your back-to-back measurements..
Check the switch moves freely..
Check wheels run freely..
Check axles/bogies/trucks have a little play in the pivots, and pivot freely..
Metal wheels are good..
Check hooks (if using hook and loop) centre nicely, and sit at a consistent height..
Check track is level ACROSS the turnout..
Look for any distortion in second-hand track..
Avoid reverse curves.. A short straight, before a curve in the other direction..
PhilP.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
I have never (intentionally) tried to push through the blades on a point (switch).
IMHO it's a recipe for disaster.
I use these to change my points every time
IMHO it's a recipe for disaster.
I use these to change my points every time
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
I set my LGB points for push through operation and it works very well for run round loops or crossing loops.
And I've seen it on the WHR, so it's prototypical practise too!
Nothing wrong with your 'digital' method though....
Yes that is what I have set up on my loft railway. Hand switches for my hidden passing loop and electric ones (hand operated(as they stay put after being trailed)) in the fiddle yard.I set my LGB points for push through operation and it works very well for run round loops or crossing loops.
And I've seen it on the WHR, so it's prototypical practise too!
Nothing wrong with your 'digital' method though....
Madman
Registered
My outdoor layout uses spring loaded switches. It took some time, through experimenting to find the perfect solution. Home Depot sells these little plastic containers of springs. In the container are various sizes and strength springs. The lighter springs work very well. Simply attach one end to the throw bar on the switch track and secure the other end to a spike in the ground or in your case a nail or screw in the platform.
dutchelm
Registered
I have always used sprung points on my tramway layouts. The most important thing is the gauge of the back to back on the wheels. If they are overgauge they try to push the blades over to soon, don't manage it & derail. Metal wheels help on the front of the train but once you can get the first wagon through the rest usually follow.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Actually, the most important point is the loco being able to push the switch points over...
Many people try this with something like a Bachmann Big Hauler, which has a very light pilot, and it derails.... even weighting it a lot does not always solve the issue.
To get the lowest friction on the switch, I find that dry lubricant (graphite, moly, teflon powder) is less friction than oil.
For the people that are having no issues, I'll bet you are either using diesels (with no pilot trucks of course) or larger, heavier steam locos.
Greg
Many people try this with something like a Bachmann Big Hauler, which has a very light pilot, and it derails.... even weighting it a lot does not always solve the issue.
To get the lowest friction on the switch, I find that dry lubricant (graphite, moly, teflon powder) is less friction than oil.
For the people that are having no issues, I'll bet you are either using diesels (with no pilot trucks of course) or larger, heavier steam locos.
Greg
Thanks. Adhesive auto wheel weights on order. Switching to an electric switch won't work operationally for several switches on this layout.
In progress. Thanks.
Same results with metal wheel cars. I'll transition to metal wheels, they would add weight lower in the car and possibly reduce the amount of additional weight required. Thanks.
Thanks, weights and wheels will be my first effort. And I was wondering if I had the option to use Bachman, so good to know.
Thank you, a good checklist to follow as I add weights to the cars, and I have several suggestions on the switches.
Thanks, I'll put the few with metal wheels after the locos.