Lgb turnout

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gscalerookie

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When i switch the manual lever from the factory side to the other side it doesn’t work. Am I doing something wrong when switching sides ? It says the lever can be on either side. If i put it back on thr original side it works
 
gscalerookie said:
I may have. When i was assembling track they were in the way so i removed them, believing there was nothing to be aware of when switching sides
Click to expand...
I unscrewed the screws, manipulated the lever to grab the switch lever, slide the post into the track and insert the two screws. It no longer operates. Like it binds bad
 
I tried to set up a test track (straight piece with a turnout) riding the straight everything is fine. When I switch tracks the loco stops at the split. What am I doing wrong
 
try the following:
the lever is on one side of the leverbox. either in the direction to the centre of the turnout, or away from the turnout. on the side of the turnout, where it does not work, screw it on, that the lever is in the other direction.

if that does not work, take away the lever box and try if the turnout moves freely, if shoved with a finger.

if that is ok, open the leverbox, take a pic and show that to us.
 
korm kormsen said:
try the following:
the lever is on one side of the leverbox. either in the direction to the centre of the turnout, or away from the turnout. on the side of the turnout, where it does not work, screw it on, that the lever is in the other direction.

if that does not work, take away the lever box and try if the turnout moves freely, if shoved with a finger.

if that is ok, open the leverbox, take a pic and show that to us.
Click to expand...
A picture(or pictures) are worth thousands of words.
 
When you say it doesn't work, can you be more specific?

Which bit is binding?

Does the lever move or bind?
Are the blades free to move or do they bind?
Do both bind?

Rik
 
gscalerookie said:
I tried to set up a test track (straight piece with a turnout) riding the straight everything is fine. When I switch tracks the loco stops at the split. What am I doing wrong
Click to expand...
There are connections to the split rails (blade) underneath, these can come loose. Some are screwed which are an easy fix, others are a ‘stamp’ fit that are pretty well unfixable. The solution is to solder a wire to take over the job. These wires permanently connect both blades electrically so no worries about insulation.
 
Is thus a new item?

Or previously owned....
 
korm kormsen said:
try the following:
the lever is on one side of the leverbox. either in the direction to the centre of the turnout, or away from the turnout. on the side of the turnout, where it does not work, screw it on, that the lever is in the other direction.

if that does not work, take away the lever box and try if the turnout moves freely, if shoved with a finger.

if that is ok, open the leverbox, take a pic and show that to us.
Click to expand...
Ok. When I remove the manual lever the turnout works and moves freely. When I put it back on the original side it moves and works freely. I’ll take pics as soon as I get home
 
ge_rik said:
When you say it doesn't work, can you be more specific?

Which bit is binding?

Does the lever move or bind?
Are the blades free to move or do they bind?
Do both bind?

Rik
Click to expand...
When I move the manual lever to the opposite site and move the lever it doesn’t switch from side to side. When I put it back on the original side and move the lever it works with no problem. The lever moves on either side. The blades bind when the lever is moved to the opposite side
 
Is the spike on the arm of the lever properly slotted into the hole in the tie bar? If not, it might be pressing the tie bar down which might be causing the binding.

Another thought. The R3s usually come with a point motor attached. Are the slots in the end of the sleepers opened up for the mounting lugs on the lever? I seem to recall having to remove the plastic from ends of the two sleepers where the lever attaches before I could fit a manual lever.

Rik
 
dunnyrail said:
There are connections to the split rails (blade) underneath, these can come loose. Some are screwed which are an easy fix, others are a ‘stamp’ fit that are pretty well unfixable. The solution is to solder a wire to take over the job. These wires permanently connect both blades electrically so no worries about insulation.
Click to expand...
These have screws luckily, which were tight
 
ge_rik said:
Is the spike on the arm of the lever properly slotted into the hole in the tie bar? If not, it might be pressing the tie bar down which might be causing the binding.

Another thought. The R3s usually come with a point motor attached. Are the slots in the end of the sleepers opened up for the mounting lugs on the lever? I seem to recall having to remove the plastic from ends of the two sleepers where the lever attaches before I could fit a manual lever.

Rik
Click to expand...
Spike is properly hooked.
 
Just got home for further inspection. I got the flattest thing i could find which was a laptop table and laid the turnout on it to see if it was flat after reading one of the reply’s. It was not flat. I removed the two screws and it was flat again on the optional side. Put on the original side with and without screws and it was flat. Upon further inspection when you switch sides you have to put a little pressure when tightening the screws in order for them to bite and screw into the new plastic ear. My mistake. It looks flush at the top when first installing the lever to the optional side but in reality it wasn’t, nor was it flat. Thanks for the help and replies to the rookie oversights. I love it here. Can’t wait to be able to contribute like you guys. Thanks again. All of the turnouts now work that i switched to the optional side.
 
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