Low cost wagons

I have a large number of these kits they make great chassis for any wagon build.
An example is a cane bin for a sugar cane train based on my experience with similar wagons in Nth Queensland Australia.
To reduce derailments I glued washers to the back of the wheels to give a bit of weight down low.
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They would seem to good value especially as the seller says he will post worldwide at his own expense.
 
Could one of you gentlemen run a ruler over them please?
Length and width of deck.
Height of deck from rail-head.
diameter of wheels please.
Thanks in advance,
PhilP
 
PhilP said:
Could one of you gentlemen run a ruler over them please?
Length and width of deck. = 140mm x 87mm
Height of deck from rail-head. = 40mm
diameter of wheels please. = 27.5mm across tread 32.73mm across flange
Thanks in advance,
PhilP
Measurements in bold above.
I also use Bachmann 24.5mm metal wheels( item No 92422) under them just use some styrene packing to stop them from jumping out of the axle boxes in case they de rail.
I have 4 of these wagons with the wheels fitted they have a low C of G because the weight is down low and run very well.
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I have bought couplers from this seller several times, the kits look very interesting.
 
vsmith said:
I have bought couplers from this seller several times, the kits look very interesting.

I use his couplers on most of my scratchbuilt wagons, good value for money.
I have also bought the links and pins he sells but have found that fishing swivels and cotter pins work better especially if there is a derailment the wagons don't all tip.
 
I have ordered 3.... one will become a hearse and the other 2 will remain flatbeds and towed behind the steam tram with drums and sacks or even new Jarrah sleepers.... Bet you didn't know we ran "mixed" steam trams here in Orstralia.... On the Parramatta line, goods wagons and a passenger trailer were de rigour.....
The kits look excellent value for money....

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GAP said:
vsmith said:
I have bought couplers from this seller several times, the kits look very interesting.
I use his couplers on most of my scratchbuilt wagons, good value for money.
I have also bought the links and pins he sells but have found that fishing swivels and cotter pins work better especially if there is a derailment the wagons don't all tip.
Do the couplers cope with R1 curves?

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
GAP said:
vsmith said:
I have bought couplers from this seller several times, the kits look very interesting.
I use his couplers on most of my scratchbuilt wagons, good value for money.
I have also bought the links and pins he sells but have found that fishing swivels and cotter pins work better especially if there is a derailment the wagons don't all tip.
Do the couplers cope with R1 curves?

Rik
Short answer Yes.
They roll right through my R1 points without a problem.
 
GAP said:
Me said:
Do the couplers cope with R1 curves?
Short answer Yes.
They roll right through my R1 points without a problem.
Hmmmm. I've been looking for some more realistic couplers than LGB hook and loops which won't partially dismember me when I dip my hand in my pocket.

I do a lot of shunting though and I assume these are a bit of a fiddle to couple and uncouple.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
GAP said:
Me said:
Do the couplers cope with R1 curves?
Short answer Yes.
They roll right through my R1 points without a problem.
Hmmmm. I've been looking for some more realistic couplers than LGB hook and loops which won't partially dismember me when I dip my hand in my pocket.

I do a lot of shunting though and I assume these are a bit of a fiddle to couple and uncouple.

Rik
Not if you issue your shunting crew with a set of long nose pliers.
I have seen on this forum someone mentioned magnetic jewelry catches, which I am still considering.
Like these;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271021641271?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Still need to get "aroundtoit" but I have been assured that my neighbor makes them in his shed.
 
"I have seen on this forum someone mentioned magnetic jewelry catches"

I remember that topic. I may have even had a hand in it's discussion. I wonder if anyone here has actually tried that method.
Hook and loops are wonderful for continuous fail-safe running. And they're not too bad for shunting operations. I've made a manual un-coupler with a piece of ridged wire with a piece of sheet metal soldered to it's end. I slip it down between the loops and gently give it a twist. The cars separate just enough so that when I pull the loco away, I actually leave some wagons on the siding. That is of course if I remember to change direction on my transmitter.

I am getting off topic here. I apologize. A few years ago I bought some of this guys stuff. It is very nice for the price, and lends itself well to bashing.
 
GAP said:
Not if you issue your shunting crew with a set of long nose pliers.
I have seen on this forum someone mentioned magnetic jewelry catches, which I am still considering.
Like these;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271021641271?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Still need to get "aroundtoit" but I have been assured that my neighbor makes them in his shed.

I'd steer clear of small magnets. They are potentially fatal if they pass through the mouth of children (or pets).

If two or more end up in adjacent loops of the intestine they lock together causing ulceration and eventual perforation which has horrific consequences.
 
Madman said:
"I have seen on this forum someone mentioned magnetic jewelry catches"
I remember that topic. I may have even had a hand in it's discussion. I wonder if anyone here has actually tried that method.
Yes, I have tried them. Totally useless.
1) Don't have the strength for any serious length of train.
2) Uncouple at the slightest jolt.
3) Polarised magnets don't allow for reversal of individual vehicles, and tend to twist around and tangle/shorten chain.
Gave up as a bad job.
 
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