Lube

pugwash

impecunious pirate
Staff member
GSC Moderator
Country flag
I've just finished converting all my stock to metal wheels instead of plastic, what I wonder is whether to lubricate the axle ends to reduce rolling resistance (quite considerable on my hopper wagons - the 4-axle ones) and if so whether to use light oil or grease. I appreciate that lubricant is sticky and therefore liable to pick up dirt but do the pros outweigh the cons?
What do you think, or better still what is your experience?
 
I can confidently state from experience that light lubrication is better than non.
I haven't done experimentation on differing types and grades of lubricant, I just take the label of any plastic friendly oil at face value and use it. No ill effects so far.
 
I did some rather unscientific tests a couple of years ago with an LGB coach on my 1:40 grade. Grandson held it at the given point and when told, let go, no push. We then checked how far it went into the terminus on the straight road. As they were second-hand stock I have no way of knowing if they had been lubed before, but they certainly seemed very dry. The best result by a reasonable margin was with ordinary car engine oil. The next best was clock oil (not 3in1) which is very thin. Both were considerably better than nothing.

The subject of lubrication is complicated. In a nut-shell, the idea is to prevent surface to surface contact, naturally. That is all very well but once stationary the weight causes the lube to be displaced (to the bottom of axle bearings). Ideally the lube should be thick enough that when the axle starts to rotate it will carry the lube back round the axle, sort of forming a wedge to lift the weight again. Too thick and it causes drag, which isn't all that helpful, too thin and the weight stops the 'wedge' from getting under the weight and circulating the bearing.
 
I found the LGB oil in the dispenser pen is perfect for lubing the axle ends. Just a tiny drop is enough and made a fair difference.
 
Neil Robinson said:
I can confidently state from experience that light lubrication is better than non.
I haven't done experimentation on differing types and grades of lubricant, I just take the label of any plastic friendly oil at face value and use it. No ill effects so far.
I have done the same but remember not to use too much lubricant.
 
I swear by the Hob-E-lube 7-pack set.

For metal axles in plastic axle boxes I tend to use the dry graphite.

Grease gets gungy, and oil doesn't seem right in plastic axle boxes.

Metal axles in cast metal axle boxes get light oil. Live steamer motion gets heavy oil.
 
you know, i use the LGB pen 75%, hob e lube and graphite the rest-
in a perfect world graphite-always on LGB linkage, unless its the old metal , inw hich case its the pen

but since i run stuff outside, and it gets spattered, or dusty, or occasionally bites the dust on a curve
-and then is bathed with dish soap and warm water,
and carefully dried, inside and out, back of wheels , etc

i peridocially, therefore, re-lube-
there is no question that graphite doesnt hold grit, twigs, grass, pine needle bits, etc.

and there is no question that heavier oil is the best for live steam

for those of us that do run outside, in the elements,
this, at least for me, with rain spatter and more often, dry airborn dirt , dust , and "stuff"
seems to lightly coat everything in a day or so

as a starting point, before lube,
however, there is no substitution for clean bristol fashion stock, clean seems to run and roll better,
 
All my stock is metal axles in plastic axle boxes and I can see the sense in dry lubrication simply due to the dust and dirt issue, availability could be tricky though. Does anybody think graphite grease is a worthy contender here? I know where there is some 8|
I have to admit that I don't have a clue what the LGB pen is or what it can do, anybody got a part number or a link?
 
Ordinary, common or garden pencil 'leads' are made of graphite. Split one in half and scrape the 'lead' into dust and use that. I would avoid grease totally.
 
I think I can buy the graphite powder at a DIY shop (my pencils just sighed in relief) but I, er, liberated some graphite grease when I gave up printing, that is why I asked :bigsmile:
I mean, could you scrape these?

a260a4fe323644918b394ae80703de60.jpg


:rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf::rolf:
 
Always use Superlube grease on my axles, got ptfe in it and it's waterproof.
 
I would not use any sort of liquid lube or grease especially outdoors as it will attract dirt and cause more problems that its worth... a "dry" spray on would be far better, Ezy Glide, Silicone or similar....
 
Mr Pugwash, the LGB Lube is ref 50019. Hope this helps, it is like a pen with a sort of Syringe Dispenser. A little goes a long way.
JonD
 
Well I couldn't get graphite powder but got graphite spray instead. I thought it was a squeeze and spray but it is aerosol so... one bit for the axles, ten bits over self. I'll try again, wearing old clothes and outside :rolf:
I have to admit a little goes a long way. Pencil, anybody?
 
Spray it into the lid Puggy, then apply with a brush or pointy stick.
 
No lid on it, just a nozzle and a fancy swing-up nozzle with a tube :confused:
I thought about the brush but not the pointy stick, one of those pencils might come in useful after all.
When the graphite landed on me it made an entertaining popping and crackling sound - I was expecting burns - but I suppose the graphite is held in a suspension of alcohol or similar. Watch this space on Wednesday for more fun and games :party:
 
Sounds a bit like some Rocol anti-scuffing spray that I have. That does something similar when sprayed onto things. I do as I said above and just dip feed it where it's wanted, otherwise it goes everywhere, except where it's wanted.:'(
 
Back
Top