Hal Farsed
D.P. Gumby.
I always would have liked a Salem Diesel. They look really good in my eyes. I was looking round for one without much luck; they were a while out of production. Forward then to August 2013 and an advert on one of the forums, for such a machine at a reasonable price. I PM ed the gentleman in question without delay to secure it. Later, I took possession of it in a car park adjacent to a station in Derbyshire and took it on my holidays to the south east. When I got home I made sure it ran OK and put it into storage. Of course, as soon as I had one, Roy Wood started work on his Salem MK2. Typical. But have you seen the price??? Blimey. A few week ago, I thought I would have a look at it to see what needed replacement. I knew the running gear had seen better days, when I picked it up in Derbyshire I had had a quick fondle of the bearings, (oo-er Missus) but nothing I have come across with these battery diesel locos has stumped me yet.
Well, in short it was b0ll0*ed. The rear drive axle was about 2/3 diameter on the bearing surfaces. The bearings were lovely and oval, the brass worm gear was well in its way. The footplate and frames looked like a nice piece of Emmental with holes everywhere from previous work done on it.
I laugh in the face of adversity!!
I contacted RWM to see if they did replacement parts for the MK1; of course they did, and when I picked my jaw off the floor, (nearly sixty quid!!!) I devised a plan. Well it’s very similar to the other plans I have devised in this situation and I ordered a MFA Como 15:1 motor gearbox, Graupner 2mm/4mm coupling and a Slaters 3:1 worm gear. It was already in bits in the tray in the dining room (I am not sittin in the chuffin Garage in this weather) so I cleaned it down and started reassembly. There was a rudimentary suspension/compensation system fitted. I thought about retaining it but didn’t bother. I also considered a repaint but I’m content to leave it as it is. There are a couple of nice works plates I do not want to disturb. All the screws were replaced by suitable Hex head screws (6BA/10BA) as I dislike the cheesehead efforts in there. I put some 10BA ones in the vacant holes in the frames to make it look better. I painted the chassis to tidy it up a bit then assembled it using brand new oilite bearings, new axles etc.. The motor gearbox is VELCROED to the underside of the foot plate. I went the “bolting it down” route the first few times, with other locomotives, but wondered if this would work. Time will tell.
The electrics were made up of what I had laying around in the bits box. Namely, a Timpdon URX1/URC2 and an ITTP diesel helper soundcard on a loop. These are non - preferred, but needs must, as I am skint. The vast cab was furnished with a control stand with the usual controls (switches on-off-charge, power on indicator lamp, sound on-off and the binding switch for the URC2 also a +ve and -ve post for the charging croc clips.), porn stash er, I mean tool lockers and two crew from Modeltown. I know, they aren’t the best but they’re hidden in the cab. To hide the huge holes in the footplate, I boarded it with weathered stirrers. I removed the redundant LEDs from the radiator and repaired it with filler. If anyone knows where the out board handrails went, I would be interested. Some photos
Well, in short it was b0ll0*ed. The rear drive axle was about 2/3 diameter on the bearing surfaces. The bearings were lovely and oval, the brass worm gear was well in its way. The footplate and frames looked like a nice piece of Emmental with holes everywhere from previous work done on it.
I laugh in the face of adversity!!
I contacted RWM to see if they did replacement parts for the MK1; of course they did, and when I picked my jaw off the floor, (nearly sixty quid!!!) I devised a plan. Well it’s very similar to the other plans I have devised in this situation and I ordered a MFA Como 15:1 motor gearbox, Graupner 2mm/4mm coupling and a Slaters 3:1 worm gear. It was already in bits in the tray in the dining room (I am not sittin in the chuffin Garage in this weather) so I cleaned it down and started reassembly. There was a rudimentary suspension/compensation system fitted. I thought about retaining it but didn’t bother. I also considered a repaint but I’m content to leave it as it is. There are a couple of nice works plates I do not want to disturb. All the screws were replaced by suitable Hex head screws (6BA/10BA) as I dislike the cheesehead efforts in there. I put some 10BA ones in the vacant holes in the frames to make it look better. I painted the chassis to tidy it up a bit then assembled it using brand new oilite bearings, new axles etc.. The motor gearbox is VELCROED to the underside of the foot plate. I went the “bolting it down” route the first few times, with other locomotives, but wondered if this would work. Time will tell.
The electrics were made up of what I had laying around in the bits box. Namely, a Timpdon URX1/URC2 and an ITTP diesel helper soundcard on a loop. These are non - preferred, but needs must, as I am skint. The vast cab was furnished with a control stand with the usual controls (switches on-off-charge, power on indicator lamp, sound on-off and the binding switch for the URC2 also a +ve and -ve post for the charging croc clips.), porn stash er, I mean tool lockers and two crew from Modeltown. I know, they aren’t the best but they’re hidden in the cab. To hide the huge holes in the footplate, I boarded it with weathered stirrers. I removed the redundant LEDs from the radiator and repaired it with filler. If anyone knows where the out board handrails went, I would be interested. Some photos
