Motorising a Bachmann combine to make a 'helper'

beavercreek

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Due to my heavy inclines on the layout all steamers need assistance if they are to get themselves and some cars up the gradients.
I had already knocked up 3 motorised stock cars for the cattle train but wanted to have a ?local? passenger train with a couple of coaches, a flat car and a caboose so the Annie loco was going to need a helping hand.
I could have drafted in one or two of the already motorised stock cars but fancied having a go at a passenger car?.

The good thing for kitbashers is that Bachmann stock cars and their passenger cars have removable floors. This makes the alterations easier than having to physically cut out the hole for the motor block, wiring it up and other alterations etc.

It starts off first with an old Bachmann Colorado & Southern combine with the 9v battery lighting system.
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Bachmann used a system of ?plastic ?light-pipes? to spread the light from two bulbs but I was going to use LEDs so they had to go. The leds where attached up to the 9V battery box and even though they are warm-white they needed to be ?coloured? to give the ?old? look.
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Floor pan marked and ready for the cut
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I used my preferred method of making the mount for the motorblock out of lumps of wood. This is because it is good and stable as well as adding a bit of extra ?heft? to the rig. As the roof has the clerestory centre I cut rebates in the first block to fit into the clerestory space. The second block was cut to size and stick onto the first one..nice and solid.

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I chose a USA Trains block as this is fairly close on for the passenger bogie wheelbase. I would have used my preferred weighty Aristo centrecab blocks, however although their wheelbase is great for freight cars, it isway too short for passenger ones.

The contacts and wiring for the motor block are made. There will be the extra cable for the second bogie pick-up wheels, soldered on later.
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The block was prepared with an A-frame to which the sides of a passenger bogie would be fixed.
The bogie sides had to be customised to fit the slots in the A-frame and also extra holes had to be made for the protruding axle stubs as the bogies sides where just not exactly the same length wheelbase as the block.
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The coupler bracket was glued to the block after making some 'shaping' adjustments to allow access to the screws for the block top plate. The height of the coupler was checked many times..just in case!
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PART TWO.............
 
PART TWO.....

At first I attached the A-Frame to the block by using screws in the top..DOOOH
It was then that I realised that I was not going to be attach the whole motor to the mounting blocks?So lesson learned they are now through the sides?. but not too far into the block sides in case of damaging the motor or contacts inside.
The cable for the pick-up bogie can be seen soldered to the block contact wires.

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Bogie side frames were hot glued to A-frame
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The A-frame was mounted to the wooden block after carefully finding the correct place. I used a screw and a large washer between frame and block. A little movement was allowed for the motor block to be able to rock when navigating any uneven track work (as if ?)
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Swing test to make sure there were no obstructions
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I used a pair of ball-bearing pickup axles on the unpowered bogie for extra pickup points especially when the motor would be traversing LGB R5 and Aristo No6 switches (points)
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Bogie and frames from the side
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I have also added a MU connector. This is so that I can use the motorised combine with a loco on the shuttle line that also has the steep incline. The shuttle unit uses diodes and if the combine was not connected to the loco , the loco would stop when it had gone past the diode and the combine would try to push it further. As they will be connected both the loco and the combine will pass the diode before stopping.
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NEXT TESTING......
 
Out for a test. ......surprise...it actually works.....phew

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The tender is from another loco...just in case there are some Rio Grande purists out there ;);)

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Exccelent mike it's ingenious and well hidden. I like this kind of bash as you are doing a genuine engineering project to make your railway function better, as oppposed to a bash which is just cosmetic. It will also make a good ghost train going up hill all on its own being pulled by a ghostly loco.
 
Nice work Mike....
 
Like it. Some useful ideas there Mike (all stored for future reference).
 
Yes Ian, I had a couple of mates around one evening recently who didn't know about the motorising, and I set the combine with a couple of cars behind and it coupled (loosely) to an Annie. At first it ran together and then it started to separate but carried on. They pointed out that it had uncoupled, I said that it will catch up...they said how could it. I just said that the geography of my layout is very strange and that the slopes go all different ways! Their faces were a picture when the combine started to gain onthe Annie as it began the hill climb!
 
tht is very clever mate!! where did u get tht idea from?..u doing a brillants work on them all....loves it..if i live around yr area.. i wud loves to visit it but wot a pity tht i m from the east midland......
btw,,,exellent work mike.....
 
Thanks Steve.
I got the idea out of necessity.
I had already done three motorised stockcars for my cattle train and needed a 'helper' for my local steam hauled passenger line...so a motorised combine seemed the logical way to go.
 
Really nice work Mike you would never know that there was a motor block fitted to the truck :thumbup:
 
Thanks for that Richie.....
Still have to do the relabelling to D&RGW....and also to the matching full passenger car. Really I should do a repaint as the D&RGW green is a bit darker but I am going to say that it was when they had been out on the line and had faded muchly!
 
I know I'm just repeating what others have said, but it's a brilliant idea and nicely executed.
Do you ever just double-head or use a push-up? I enjoy doing that on my line (even though it's hard holding two, 2.4 GHz controllers at once!)
 
gregh said:
I know I'm just repeating what others have said, but it's a brilliant idea and nicely executed.
Do you ever just double-head or use a push-up? I enjoy doing that on my line (even though it's hard holding two, 2.4 GHz controllers at once!)
Hi Greg
I use triple heading and quad heading! (sometimes with locos distributed though the rake).
My incline is 10% at its peak and besides having a cutting which would be over 2 and a half feet deep or a 25 foot long tunnel I have no option but pile on the power!
Those who visit my layout are always surprised at the gradient and what gets up there! :D
 
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Wonderful!
I'd been contemplating motorizing one of my B-mann Christmas combines.
Thanks to your project, I won't have to reinvent the wheel. I can just refer
to your post & Photo's when build time comes.
Thanks!
 
No problem James....We aim to please......:bigsmile::bigsmile:
 
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