Nameplate painting

M

Moonraker

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I just purchased a Roundhouse Taliesin and find that the "Taliesin" nameplate and works plates come unpainted in an etched brass fret. The nameplate needs to be red lettering and red border on the brass background. The worksplates are brass lettering and brass border on a black background. What's the best way of painting them?

Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 
Hi Peter - in my experience the best way is to paint on some enamel paint, not too thick, but not so thin that it doesn't cover, Humbrol sort of thing, leave it five minutes to begin to dry, then turn the plates over and rub them on a white piece of paper in a finger placed on the back of the etch with a little pressure. This gently burnishes the paint from the raised surfaces, without scratching the brass.
 
Now this may sound like childs play.... Try it anyway; find an engraver's supplies and buy some engraving filler, it comes in a stick like crayon (heaps of colours), rub it on and fill what you want filled, let it skin then polish off the high spots with a soft lint free cloth....
 
Okay, Two things to try there for the works plates. Thanks.

But what about the name plate which is the reverse. Is it just a question of picking out, in red, the lettering and border with a lining pen?

Regards
Peter
 
Moonraker said:
Okay, Two things to try there for the works plates. Thanks.

But what about the name plate which is the reverse. Is it just a question of picking out, in red, the lettering and border with a lining pen?

Regards
Peter
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I'd use a 10/0 brush... but if you mean the old world draughtsmans pens that would be great. you may have to fiddle with the paint consistency to get the flow right though
 
Peter - it should work on the Taliesin plate too if the letters are deeper than the surround, just paint the letters the colour you want, then wait 5 (or so) minutes and burnish off on the paper. This will leave paint in the groove. If there are two colours needed then you can do this too, just be a bit more sparing with the paint, be quite deliberate about where you apply it, don't apply gallons, work it in to the detail but leave the surface of the plate reasonably clean. You can then do one colour at a time and get an excellent result :) I did the works plate on my Rugen tank like this, it had black paint recessed into the face of the plate.
 
Peter,
First prime using HI Chem epoxy [grey] auto refinishing stores stock this. Then spray enamel in your colour choice, let dry over 2-3 days, then use a watchmakers fine file, to remove the paint from the raised parts. finally 1200 grade wet /dry paper glued onto a wood 'finger' for final polishing ..easy!

Gordon.
 
I thought part of the question was "reverse" nameplate - coloured border and letters with brass (recessed) background? To me, I would either etch the raised portion or finely scour it with wet&dry and carefully paint afterwards or use a masking fluid in the recess before painting?
 
I thought part of the question was "reverse" nameplate - coloured border and letters with brass (recessed) background? To me, I would either etch the raised portion or finely scour it with wet&dry and carefully paint afterwards or use a masking fluid in the recess before painting?
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The thing about "original" FR nameplates, is that the lettering is recessed into the brass plate:-
5c3c0fb353784801952094a6b0311967.jpg
 
Rob,
Many thanks for pointing that out. Now that I examine the Roundhouse nameplates carefully I see that the letters are also recessed so half my initial question was wrong.
Your photo also gave the close up of the paint scheme and lining which I am going to need. Although I have to say that I find the lining carried at present by the prototype is not to my taste being so big and bold. I think I will go for the more subtle lining that the loco carried pre-war.
Regards
Peter Lucas
MyLocoSound
 
jameshilton said:
As I said - for the reverse plates it will also work fine...
http://ejklr.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/rugens-works-plates-and-coal.html < Link To http://ejklr.blogspot.co....s-plates-and-coal.html

In the link I describe using kitchen towel, but have since found just a sheet of clean white paper works even better (hence my recommendation).
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Well, to me the intial question wasn't answered but, as the question was incorrect, I probably shouldn't have bothered!
 
If you paint them direct with a good enamel and use the rubbing it on paper method, then to polish wait a day or so to dry properly then use a peice of 2500 grit wet and dry, use it dry and just rub the plate on the paper in swirling circular motions, use it dry not wet too. This will give a nice shiny scratch free finish but you have to use 2500 paper, you can by a sheet of it on ebay.
Cheers
Rob
 
Just to put this one to bed, I finished enhancing my Taliesin as shown in the attached photo.
I sprayed the tank tops and fronts gloss black and the cab interior cream, both as per prototype. A varnished wood floor went into the cab. I made my first ever attempt at lining with a lining pen but the quality of the result was not the best so I removed it and used some grey pin striping from a car accessory shop. After a lot of practice with the lining pen I'll remove the pin striping and have another go.
Regards
Peter
987c81f917224df1840efd888d6ce0bf.jpg
 
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