Non-working fan in an Aristocraft G scale FA-1 loco

[14Justinian7]

Hello all! I have an Aristocraft G scale loco that I've just converted to DCC with a Soundtraxx Tsunami 4400, which seems to be working fine. However, I have a couple of issues.

I'm trying to wire the loco's exhaust fan directly into the decoder, and I'm not sure how to do it. I currently have the positive lead going into V+ common on the decoder, and the negative lead to F5, which doesn't work (maybe the Functions are just for lighting?) Should I wire the fan directly into Motor positive, and the negative to Motor negative, or is there another solution?

Also, along those lines, I have the original interior cab lighting bulbs (I think they're the grain of wheat variety - one on each side of the interior) wired with positive leads to V+ common on the decoder, with one negative going to F3 and one negative to F4. When I try to access F3 and F4 on my controller (NCE Powerhouse 10 amp system with Procab controller), nothing happens, though these lights worked on just DC track power.

Any thoughts on these issues?

Lou Dalessandro

 

[PhilP]

Aristocraft wired their loco's with a common negative on the lighting boards, so you need to reverse any LEDs and diodes on the lighting boards. - Or wire LEDs / bulbs directly to your decoder.

Do you mean the fan on the smoke unit, or a 'cosmetic' roof fan?

Have you looked at the information on George Schrayer's pages? - Girr. Org

PhilP

 

[14Justinian7]

I am referring to the fan on the smoke unit. I'm trying to wire it so as to not to use the contact "shell" piece on the back of the loco where the switches are. I did look at George Schrayer's pages, and I realized that if don't want smoke, I don't need the fan at all. However, I would like the option of using the smoke in the future, so what would be the best way of wiring the smoke unit-fan combo without using the contact "shell" on the back?

As regards the bulbs, I have them wired together and then jumpered into the V+ common positive on the decoder, and the other lead from each bulb is going to a function on the decoder (F3 and F4, respectively). What do I have to change exactly to wire them correctly?

Thanks!

Lou

 

[PhilP]

Starting with the lights:

I assume you have altered CV's, so F3 & F4 control them, and have set the output voltage to around 5-6V?

Dependent on the vintage of the model, it may have a mixture of bulbs and LEDs
I would get a battery (6 or 9V) and a 1k resistor, and test the bulbs/lights with this. - The 1k will protect any LEDs, even if you have the connections reversed.

If you have not changed CV's to reduce the voltage to the lighting circuits, you may have blown the bulbs/LEDs.
Using your battery and resistor, you can prove that they are working, and the polarity.

Then use a meter, to check the polarity from the decoder and the voltage. - You may need to put a load on the output, as it will be a PWM 'chopped' voltage, so your meter will most likely not read a true voltage.

Smoke:

Depends if there are one or two sets of wires, but basically, you are just switching a voltage 'on' to the smoke unit.

PhilP

 

[14Justinian7]

Starting with the lights:

I assume you have altered CV's, so F3 & F4 control them, and have set the output voltage to around 5-6V?

Dependent on the vintage of the model, it may have a mixture of bulbs and LEDs
I would get a battery (6 or 9V) and a 1k resistor, and test the bulbs/lights with this. - The 1k will protect any LEDs, even if you have the connections reversed.

If you have not changed CV's to reduce the voltage to the lighting circuits, you may have blown the bulbs/LEDs.
Using your battery and resistor, you can prove that they are working, and the polarity.

Then use a meter, to check the polarity from the decoder and the voltage. - You may need to put a load on the output, as it will be a PWM 'chopped' voltage, so your meter will most likely not read a true voltage.

Smoke:

Depends if there are one or two sets of wires, but basically, you are just switching a voltage 'on' to the smoke unit.

PhilP

Starting with the lights:

I assume you have altered CV's, so F3 & F4 control them, and have set the output voltage to around 5-6V?

Dependent on the vintage of the model, it may have a mixture of bulbs and LEDs
I would get a battery (6 or 9V) and a 1k resistor, and test the bulbs/lights with this. - The 1k will protect any LEDs, even if you have the connections reversed.

If you have not changed CV's to reduce the voltage to the lighting circuits, you may have blown the bulbs/LEDs.
Using your battery and resistor, you can prove that they are working, and the polarity.

Then use a meter, to check the polarity from the decoder and the voltage. - You may need to put a load on the output, as it will be a PWM 'chopped' voltage, so your meter will most likely not read a true voltage.

Smoke:

Depends if there are one or two sets of wires, but basically, you are just switching a voltage 'on' to the smoke unit.

PhilP

Thanks!

Lou

 

[14Justinian7]

Thanks!

Lou

I got the interior lights working simply by accessing functions 24 and 25 on the decoder (which control F3 and F4 output), so the lights are wired OK.

Some new problems though.

Now the train only seem to run forward. If I switch it to reverse using my NCE controller, it either continues forward, or will go in reverse for a few seconds, then pause, then start forward again. I've already tried rewiring the motor inputs to the decoder, and also switched the track power leads, but to no avail.

Also, I've noticed that with the train running forward, the bells, horns and whistles work, but the headlight doesn't. If I switch to reverse on the NCE controller, the headlight comes on but not the bells, horns and whistles (plus, as outlined above), the train doesn't want to seem to run in reverse).

Any thoughts on these issues?

Thanks,

Lou

 

[14Justinian7]

I got the interior lights working simply by accessing functions 24 and 25 on the decoder (which control F3 and F4 output), so the lights are wired OK.

Some new problems though.

Now the train only seem to run forward. If I switch it to reverse using my NCE controller, it either continues forward, or will go in reverse for a few seconds, then pause, then start forward again. I've already tried rewiring the motor inputs to the decoder, and also switched the track power leads, but to no avail.

Also, I've noticed that with the train running forward, the bells, horns and whistles work, but the headlight doesn't. If I switch to reverse on the NCE controller, the headlight comes on but not the bells, horns and whistles (plus, as outlined above), the train doesn't want to seem to run in reverse).

Any thoughts on these issues?

Thanks,

Lou

 

[PhilP]

What make and model of decoder are you using?

Some run an almost automatic 'tuning-cycle' to set the decoder to match the characteristics of the motor(s) in the model.

It may be worth you asking these questions on the My Large Scale Forum?
You could also see if you can find a local group / club?

Best of luck,
PhilP

 

[Dan]

1. Which Aristo loco/fan unit?? Original locos had the fan and smoke unit tied in series and were separate parts. Newer versions had fan and smoke unit in one plastic box.