Piko DB 199 Camel

Tanker man

Tanker man

G scale and 5 inch ride on
Country flag
I have one of these which I fitted a Massoth XLS decoder ages ago, but I’m sure I have blown the decoder in a recent collision…………I cannot find the instruction leaflet and cannot get it apart. I have removed the 6 screws from under the black frame on the bottom but it won’t budge…………I cannot remember how it comes apart………any ideas??
thanks
Dave
 
Link to PIKO 37543, bottom of page the following downloads are available, last one is the instructions with exploded views showing the locations of the screws.
PIKO.JPG
199.JPG
 
Thanks ‘shed’ for the reply. After much searching, I have now found the document……….it helps a little in that I have popped the tabs underneath but…….
lt appears that one side is ‘stuck’ , I have movement on one side of the loco and movement at the front of the other side but the rear quarter is stuck solid!…….I can only assume that the decoder has melted and something nasty has run up to the inside of the body so that when it cooled down, it is solid.
Anybody come across this before??……if so, how did you resolve it……apart from smashing the body………I will investigate the possibility of getting just the bad end as the body appears to be in 3 parts.
Any more ( sensible) suggestions will be very welcome.
thanks
Dave
 
From memory, you have to remove the buffer beams first. I think I wrote up the dismantling of this type of loco, I'll have a rummage.
 
Found it. Look at the second picture. It's not quite the same loco, it's the standard gauge version, but I'm sure they are made the same.

How to upgrade PIKO BR 110 Bo-Bo diesel to digital

I got one of these recently, the latest version model 37568. There are seven other models 3756x representing variations on BR 110 diesels including BR 112, BR 114 and others. These instructions would apply to any of these, and probably the "Harzkamel" BR 199 narrow gauge variants (3754x) as well...
www.gscalecentral.net www.gscalecentral.net
 
Thanks Dave, that is slightly different to the ‘Camel’ , as I say, I have all of the screws out and the clips, un clipped but the body is stuck at one point, which, from memory, is where the decoder is(was) .
I did wonder about applying some heat to see if it would give but I am afraid of warping the body……..mind you, I may have to break it to get it off, if I cannot think of anything else.
thanks for the input
Dave
 
Paul M said:
A very fine blade utilised where the joint should be
Click to expand...
Yep, tried that yesterday but solid as a rock! I did wonder about applying some heat to try to melt what ever it is that’s holding it but it will probably distort the body before it give it up or Thinking I may try scanning the offending area and then use a slitting disc to cut it off, the print won’t be perfect and the colour match even worse but can’t think of another way of getting into the beast. It looks as if new parts are available but at what cost and how long to get them?
cheers
Dave
 
Tanker man said:
Thanks Dave, that is slightly different to the ‘Camel’ , as I say, I have all of the screws out and the clips, un clipped but the body is stuck at one point, which, from memory, is where the decoder is(was) .
I did wonder about applying some heat to see if it would give but I am afraid of warping the body……..mind you, I may have to break it to get it off, if I cannot think of anything else.
thanks for the input
Dave
Click to expand...
Did you remove the 4 little screws around the speaker grill (see picture in my thread)? If you have done that and removed the buffer beams I don't know what else to suggest.
 
idlemarvel said:
Did you remove the 4 little screws around the speaker grill (see picture in my thread)? If you have done that and removed the buffer beams I don't know what else to suggest.
Click to expand...
Yes every screw that I could find, this model had a slotted infill that a separate piece plugs into with 4 lugs. I’m wondering if I can drill a slotted hole under this cover and push a screwdriver down against the inside of the body and ’chip ‘ whatever it is that is holding it, off………..anybody done anything like this in the past?
Dave
 
Very gently and slowly push a palette knife into the gap and ease it apart, breaking the bond.

It sounds like the heat has welded the plastic, but it should break with a little gentle persuasion....
 
Gizzy said:
Very gently and slowly push a palette knife into the gap and ease it apart, breaking the bond.

It sounds like the heat has welded the plastic, but it should break with a little gentle persuasion....
Click to expand...
Yes have tried that several times but will not budge. I rang Gaugemaster to see if a new body was available, no spares listed for that model at all! Was produced in 2014, apparently.
So have drilled a 5 mm hole under this bar thing and using a 3mm flat screwdriver, have managed to release some of the side panel but it’s now stuck fast next to the cab, my 3 mm screwdriver is too short to reach any further, am awaiting my electrical son to come home from work to see if he has one in his kit……..he generally has one of everything! ……..if not it’s good old Amazon Prime, who do have one………watch this space!
cheers
Dave
 
Tanker man said:
Yes have tried that several times but will not budge. I rang Gaugemaster to see if a new body was available, no spares listed for that model at all! Was produced in 2014, apparently.
So have drilled a 5 mm hole under this bar thing and using a 3mm flat screwdriver, have managed to release some of the side panel but it’s now stuck fast next to the cab, my 3 mm screwdriver is too short to reach any further, am awaiting my electrical son to come home from work to see if he has one in his kit……..he generally has one of everything! ……..if not it’s good old Amazon Prime, who do have one………watch this space!
cheers
Dave
Click to expand...
Do you have any of those old sheffield steel long flat knifes in the kitchen, good and strong may just do the job.
 
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