Piko electric switch machine and LGB 51750

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lpsfu48

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I am having a problem trying to figure out how to hook up the LGB 51750 with the Piko electric switch machine. Being new at this hobby, everything is unknown to me, including the size of wire to use , where to get the power source , and which inputs and outputs are used in connecting to the LGB momentary switch.
As an example, I tried just connecting to the track where the power from the rheostat is located and it did not power the Piko electric switch. Perhaps my wire was too small? I was using size 16 wire. Also what is the amperage and voltage required to run the piko? The output of my Bachmann 5 (44217)is 1 amp, and when it goes in to the track I am sure it loses power and maybe not enough to power the switcher? Ok , I think you have enough information to hang me,,, lol. By the way, I only use about thirty feet of track so far, and am running a White Pass 108 diesel with sound and reverse. It runs very well and I cleaned the Brass track so every thing is clean. My joints are doing well . My switchers are being used to switch from a longer loop to a circle which is inside the longer loop. All is indoors.
I look forward to hearing a solution(-.-) Thank you all for being here, this site is a God send,,,
 
What wiring diagrams and/or manuals do you have? I'm wondering what is guiding the connections.

Do you have the manuals for the 51750 and the Piko switch machine? I would start there.

Honestly I know what you are doing wrong, but I'm trying to help you help yourself a bit, as opposed to it being black magic.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
What wiring diagrams and/or manuals do you have? I'm wondering what is guiding the connections.

Do you have the manuals for the 51750 and the Piko switch machine? I would start there.

Honestly I know what you are doing wrong, but I'm trying to help you help yourself a bit, as opposed to it being black magic.

Greg
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Hi Greg, thanks for your questions.
I received the parts with little information, even though they are both brand new. The Piko switch machine did not have a manual . The 51750 has a manual of sorts but does not say what I am needing to know. There are several pages written in German , and about 35 english words which show the pictures of the inputs and outputs. Unfortunately, I do not read German. I will endeavour to find a German friend to interpret the instructions for the 51750.
Thanks for your input.
 
lpsfu48 said:
Hi Greg, thanks for your questions.
I received the parts with little information, even though they are both brand new. The Piko switch machine did not have a manual . The 51750 has a manual of sorts but does not say what I am needing to know. There are several pages written in German , and about 35 english words which show the pictures of the inputs and outputs. Unfortunately, I do not read German. I will endeavour to find a German friend to interpret the instructions for the 51750.
Thanks for your input.
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Have you tried using google translate? Helps get over most issues with foreign languages. You do need to know how to use copy and paste, can you do that? Sorry if that sounds facetious but surprising how many do not.
 
dunnyrail said:
Have you tried using google translate? Helps get over most issues with foreign languages. You do need to know how to use copy and paste, can you do that? Sorry if that sounds facetious but surprising how many do not.
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Hi dunnyrail{•~•}
Well, after Greg suggested I follow a manual, written in a foreign language, I decided to have a snooze, since this soon to be 73 year old brain needed a break. I realized that nothing is easy, that gives us pleasure. I will definitely give your suggestions some thought when I am cognitively aware of my surroundings. I think I am slowly coming to a level of awareness now that I have to explain my position.
I have built a few computers . Now I am convinced there is a pleasure in this train that I am working on; and I think I like the sound of the trains horn , but am just sorry I don’t yet have the knowledge to make it sound for a longer time and at my will. I also like the fact that you guys are great potential friends. So, let me get a few more brain cells working before I give you more information, since you haven’t given me a heck of a lot yet. I thank you for being there though , that gives me great pleasure.
Larry.
 
Connecting an LGB point motor to a 51750 is straight forward because you connect the orange socket on the decoder to the appropriate orange socket (A, B C or D - labelled on the rear of the 51750 )on the 51750. Likewise you connect the white socket on the point motor to the appropriate white socket on the 51750. The sockets on the point motor are coloured Orange and White to make things easier. However there are no such markings on the Piko point motor. So you must make a decision as to which of the 2 sockets on the point motor is "orange" and which is "white". Then connect to the 51750 as described above. My own suggestion would be to treat the left hand socket on the point motor as orange and thus the right hand one would be white. I assume that you are using 2 different coloured wires. LGB uses, not surprisingly, orange and white cable to make things even easier.

I hope this helps.

Martin
 
One other thing to note - the 51750 Control box needs 14 to 18 V ac to work. This is typically supplied by the accessory output of your transformer. Check your transformer manual.
 
MTheStrong said:
Connecting an LGB point motor to a 51750 is straight forward because you connect the orange socket on the decoder to the appropriate orange socket (A, B C or D - labelled on the rear of the 51750 )on the 51750. Likewise you connect the white socket on the point motor to the appropriate white socket on the 51750. The sockets on the point motor are coloured Orange and White to make things easier. However there are no such markings on the Piko point motor. So you must make a decision as to which of the 2 sockets on the point motor is "orange" and which is "white". Then connect to the 51750 as described above. My own suggestion would be to treat the left hand socket on the point motor as orange and thus the right hand one would be white. I assume that you are using 2 different coloured wires. LGB uses, not surprisingly, orange and white cable to make things even easier.

I hope this helps.

Martin
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Thank you Martin, I appreciate this very much.
 
phils2um said:
One other thing to note - the 51750 Control box needs 14 to 18 V ac to work. This is typically supplied by the accessory output of your transformer. Check your transformer manual.
Click to expand...

Thank you phils2um, for this as well, I much appreciate it. Now , I can snooze in comfort.
Larry
 
I use the 18 volt transformer from LGB to operate the LGB EPL switch/point motor. I found that by adding the LGB booster module the motors work much better.
 
Dan said:
I use the 18 volt transformer from LGB to operate the LGB EPL switch/point motor. I found that by adding the LGB booster module the motors work much better.
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Thank you Dan, I find it difficult to find LGB in Western Canada. The key to this is to find a transformer with 18 volts of output. You are the first to tell me this.
Larry
 
lpsfu48 said:
Thank you Dan, I find it difficult to find LGB in Western Canada. The key to this is to find a transformer with 18 volts of output. You are the first to tell me this.
Larry
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well, to add to this , you are the second person to say it. I guess I am losing recollection power.
 
It's getting harder and harder to find low voltage AC power supplies with an appropriate 16-18 VAC output. Probably the best place to get one that is reasonably priced is a used LGB starter set transformer from Ebay.
 
Although AC is the recommended power I have just bought an 18 volt DC supply, and it operated my points quite well,
 
phils2um said:
It's getting harder and harder to find low voltage AC power supplies with an appropriate 16-18 VAC output. Probably the best place to get one that is reasonably priced is a used LGB starter set transformer from Ebay.
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I find lots of old MRC HO supplies on the market. They are junk on the DC side (poor output current, voltage sag under load) but they have the 18vac outputs. Maybe harder in the UK.

Greg
 
JimmyB said:
Although AC is the recommended power I have just bought an 18 volt DC supply, and it operated my points quite well,
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Unfortunately the LGB momentary contact switch boxes the OP is asking about when used with EPL drives do not work with a DC input. They require AC. The built-in diodes rectify the AC to send the correct polarity to the EPL drive.

Yes, DC can work well to manually operate EPL drives but you need to make your own momentary contact control that swaps the DC polarity (easiest with a double pole, double throw, center off momentary contact switch).
 
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phils2um said:
Unfortunately the LGB momentary contact switch boxes the OP is asking about when used with EPL drives do not work with a DC input. They require AC. The built-in diodes rectify the AC to send the correct polarity to the EPL drive.

Yes, DC can work well to manually operate EPL drives but you need to make your own momentary contact control that swaps the DC polarity (easiest with a double pole, double throw, center off momentary contact switch).
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Hello,

Just joined and new to the hobby. What is the best way to weatherize my switch connections? I have it working but I want to leave outside all the time.

thx
 
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