Point Lanterns

[chasaitch]

In an attempt to create atmosphere I have installed several points with lanterns; Looks great in the gloaming but some have a habit of binding. Twist the lantern and the point moves fine but by pushing the blades becomes impossible. Is there a solution or do I bite the bullit and disconect the lantern from the point rod?

 

[dutchelm]

I gave up & removed the lanterns. If you lubricate them they attract dust & stick even more.

 

[Nodrog1826]

Did the same here myself, same problem, same solution, in fact I gave them away in the end.

 

[idlemarvel]

I found the LGB ones to be generally okay but the PIKO ones jammed the motor at regular intervals. Both leave a lot to be desired in terms of design, a fixed cog and moving rack as inside the motor would be better as the movement is linear not circular.

 

[chasaitch]

I should have mentioned they are LGB.

 

[James Day]

I should have mentioned they are LGB.

I like the light and look of these but have also struggled with the binding. I therefore unclip the eye from the motor. They stop moving when you do this but stop binding!

I only power the access point to my loops. The exit point is floating with a dummy motor and I leave the eye loop for the lantern in place on these. They are thrown by flanges as the train leaves. For some reason these lanterns never bind!

I have a few spring loaded points that always send trains the same way. These have lanterns made from the earlier pre EPL LGB design which are set and cannot rotate.

I do have one PIKO motor, add on switch unit and lantern, which looks wonderfully thought through. I have never used this outside though. After the comments made in this perhaps I had best leave it!

James

 

[The Tinker]

I do them with linkages and rods no binding

 

[James Day]

I do them with linkages and rods no binding

Respect there. I can recall reading about the Pre-War Hornby Control System many years ago. Rodding, traversers, compensators etc! I really wanted that!

I never got any, but I have seen it demonstrated. As I said - Respect indeed!

 

[chasaitch]

Don't leave it like that Tinker, spill the beans!

 

[chasaitch]

I like the light and look of these but have also struggled with the binding. I therefore unclip the eye from the motor. They stop moving when you do this but stop binding!

I only power the access point to my loops. The exit point is floating with a dummy motor and I leave the eye loop for the lantern in place on these. They are thrown by flanges as the train leaves. For some reason these lanterns never bind!

I have a few spring loaded points that always send trains the same way. These have lanterns made from the earlier pre EPL LGB design which are set and cannot rotate.

I do have one PIKO motor, add on switch unit and lantern, which looks wonderfully thought through. I have never used this outside though. After the comments made in this perhaps I had best leave it!

James

That is the solution I have come up with but unless Tinker comes up withhis solution none will be the wiser!

 

[James Day]

That is the solution I have come up with but unless Tinker comes up withhis solution none will be the wiser!

Maybe he does not want to make a rod for his own back?

 

[The Tinker]

Dismantle switch machine discard rack for lantern. Drill hole in end of point linkage, Lgb point motors already have hole at other end of link. Drill hole in end of lamp for a pivot pin to go into it. I use a stainless dress pin, mount this to a base. I then make a 25mm lever from styrene and glue to bottom of lamp and with a piano wire link I join this to a bell crank(also mounted to the same base) which connects to points motor I have experimented with bell crank ratios to make lamp work correctly. I am going to use a NZR type signal as I rebuild my layout this year, which will that a little more working out