Power bus Idea

[tramcar trev]

Just thought I'd run this by the forum......
I was trying to think of a way of taking power of the figure 8 x 2mm wire that I'm running under the tramway to supply power for lights, buildings etc...
I came up with this; drive a brass or stainless brad through the appropriate conductor, then wrap the wire to the load around the pin, dob of solderpaste and touch with an iron. Coat the joint with some liquid tape.....
Would save having to hold wires while they are soldered and cutting and joining the main supply... Is there another simpler way?


I have upped the operating voltage for the traction side of things to 13.25VDC because I measured out 20 metres of the brass wire I'm going to use for the overhead and measured the resistance then using an online calculator worked out that 13.25volts would allow me to run without having to have too many feeders.... It was easy to do, there is a trimpot on the power supply that lets one adjust the voltage....

 

[trammayo]

I suppose itr would work - just how much resistance there would be where the brad pushed through the wire is unknown. The idea is similar to the copper tape supplied for doll's houses but, again, I have no idea if the tape would carry the current you require.

The only other (identical) system proven in use was/is the festoon cable used for illuminations where the light fittings (also called Blackpool Lampholders) have staggered brass pegs with a tapered end points. You split the fitting, lay the cable inand reassemble and screw up the base plate. Works on traction and domestic voltages.

 

[ntpntpntp]

Sounds like a DIY version of an insulation displacement connector, such as these:

Various brands available. I used a few several years ago, they worked well. I guess the type you use depends on the wire thicknesses involved and the voltage requirement etc.

 

[tramcar trev]

Sounds like a DIY version of an insulation displacement connector, such as these:

Various brands available. I used a few several years ago, they worked well. I guess the type you use depends on the wire thicknesses involved and the voltage requirement etc.

We call these scotch connectors. May be a simpler idea, I'll get some and try them out. Didn't think of those!!

 

[Zerogee]

Sounds like a DIY version of an insulation displacement connector, such as these:

Various brands available. I used a few several years ago, they worked well. I guess the type you use depends on the wire thicknesses involved and the voltage requirement etc.

Always known these as Scotchlok connectors, though I guess that's just one brand that has become a generic name (like Hoover). Used many, many of them putting stereos and things into older cars in my youth....
Trev - if you split your figure-8 wire into two separate leads for a few inches where you want to make each junction to it, you could probably fit a couple of these in, as Nick says they work well and do the job effectively, making the joint secure and well insulated.

Jon.

 

[tramcar trev]

I think these will be very good to put ribs onto the spine of the lighting circuit.... A quick slice with a stanley knive will split the fig 8 into 2....

 

[Madman]

Sounds like a DIY version of an insulation displacement connector, such as these:

Various brands available. I used a few several years ago, they worked well. I guess the type you use depends on the wire thicknesses involved and the voltage requirement etc.
[/quote


I can't see if there is a slit opening on one side of this connector. It would allow a connector to be spliced into a continuos wire. Here is another type;

I am posting from my Picasa album for the very first time. I'm not sure if I did this correctly. I simply copied the URL from the search bar at the top of the screen.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110378...hkey=Gv1sRgCPH_toWSp4fYAg#5760752455721597474

 

[tramcar trev]

They all have either a slit or swing apart. They for different sized wire too are available.....
Cheaper than chips on Ebay, not so cheap if I get them at the hardware/car shoppe....
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...w=scotch+connectors&_sacat=See-All-Categories

The trick from memory with these is to make sure the the contact plate is driven home before clicking the plastic retaining cover over.
Thanks for refreshing my memory, last time I used these was to wire up a reversing camera on my car.....

 

[bobg]

Normally used for 'T'ing off, giving three conductors, but if you open out the 'blind' apperture you can get four. They will take a good amperage so should be good for track power. They do eventually suffer from ingrese of water with the obvious electrical problems, so it doesn't hurt to wrap them with tape, or fill with silicon grease or even R.T.V.

 

[tramcar trev]

Maybe I'll still brus soem liquid tape onto them just to slow the deterioration down will also hold things together.

 

[bobg]

Should sort it.

 

[GAP]

I have used these connectors on my trailer, they are underneath with no protective covering (exposed to water, road dirt etc) and have been ther for ovet 10 years without trouble.
An idea instead of liquid tape is hot melt glue, again cheap as chips from any $2 shop and easy to use, I melt mine with a blow torch and dab it on like the old fashioned sealing wax.

 

[Madman]

I have used these connectors on my trailer, they are underneath with no protective covering (exposed to water, road dirt etc) and have been ther for ovet 10 years without trouble.
An idea instead of liquid tape is hot melt glue, again cheap as chips from any $2 shop and easy to use, I melt mine with a blow torch and dab it on like the old fashioned sealing wax.

One of the benefits of hot glue is the ability to remove it, rather cleanly, in the future. The simplest method, I've found, is to place the item in the freezer for maybe ten minutes. Then the glue breaks off with less effort. Now, in the case of your trailer, ??

 

[tramcar trev]

Heat melt glue has many advantages, I once went to a "workshop" where a famous American woodworker was demonstrating his skills and he was making jigs ad hoc with hot melt glue and chipboard, a most impressive "performance".
But to get back onto the topic of scotch connectors I came across this variety. Called "Fast tap terminals" or Termini in the plural... These have the advantage that a crimp on spade slides into them and that means if You use a blue spade you could connect several smaller dia wires in the one spade. This is going to be handy as I can run the spine along in the general area and tap of for leds, signals etc where ever needed......
Gentlemen thanks for the ideas, this is going to be a godsend to my back, will save me trying to solder upside down and back to front.....

I wont used hot melt glue for the overall insulation though, the rubber tape in a bottle is far easier to apply and will also act as an adhesive to hold things in place.....

 

[Zerogee]

Those yellow Fast Taps are a jolly clever extension of the Scotchlok idea - haven't seen them before. Reckon they'll work great for what you need, Trev, and it should look a very neat job once it's done!

Jon.