Replacing gears on a Stainz:

mbendebba

mbendebba

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Hello All:
I am about to replace the gears on a late model Stainz, one with the wheels pressed into the axle. Thus far, I have removed one wheel from each axle and that went smoothly. Now, I need to remove the old gears and replace them with new ones. I would appreciate any advice anyone is willing to share on how to proceed from here, tools, tricks, etc?

Cheers,

Mohammed
 
Hello Don:
I have no idea what happened to them. I bought this loco on evil bay for next to nothing. It was described as not working. The loco is in great shape, except for the gears, both had a good size indentation on them. I have never seen anything like it before. But like you said, these things generally go on for ever, and this one will once it repaired. I have already gotten my hands on a new set of gears, now all I need to do is get them on, matter of time.

Mohammed
 
If the gears are no good why not just cut them off with a saw.
The new ones can then be slid on & squeezed into place with a vice & small piece of tube.
 
Quote:
both had a good size indentation on them.

Gear damage like you describe could well be the result of a child pushing the loco repeatedly.
 
Dutchhlem: Thanks for the suggestion, did not think of cutting them off, nor did I think of the improvised press, I will try it.
Alan: you are probably correct, the owner did say that his son played with it all the time and then it stopped working one day.
I will update shortly, I love this place, it is a trove of useful information.


Cheers
Mohammed
 
These are the tools I use to remove & refit wheels
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To remove wheels, slide between jaws & lever off slowly with claw hammer.
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To replace wheels, squeeze slowly using jaws of work bench.
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To remove or replace gears. Rest gear wheel on jaws & [strike]hit[/strike] tap axle with hammer.
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Dutchhelm :I am impressed. I took your advice, modified it a little and removed the gears. I used a pair of wire cutters to snip off most of the gear and then a small file to create a groove in the remaining part, placed a flat screw driver in the groove, twist it and voila, c'est fini.
I do have a press like yours and I intend to used to put the wheel back on. I do not know about the hammer though, unless you really tap gently and not get frustrated as you are doing it.

Cheers
 
Ideal bit of kit!:laugh::nail:
 
mbendebba said:
I do have a press like yours and I intend to used to put the wheel back on.
Click to expand...
Before squeezing the wheels fully home don't forget to check the quartering (ie. one wheel is 90 degrees different to the other). This is the hardest bit to get right.
 
dutchelm said:
Before squeezing the wheels fully home don't forget to check the quartering (ie. one wheel is 90 degrees different to the other). This is the hardest bit to get right.
Click to expand...
It's usually possible to look through one wheel to the other, to line up the counterweight at 90 degrees. This is easier when the wheels and axles can be dropped out of the chassis, not so fun when the axles are captive!

Same comment about quartering applies to the the gear teeth - try and line up a tooth with a spoke on the wheel that's already on the axle. It only takes a small amount of misalignment between the relative positions of the wheels on each axle to cause binding.
 
Thanks Mike, Thanks Nick. I was aware of the quatering of the wheels and I planned to run a thin wire through the counter weight of one wheel and the air intake of the other. I was not aware of the gear teeth alignment. At this time, I do not understand the issue, but I am going examine an already assembled wheel set and try to see if I can understand what the issue is. Needless to say, I will be back if I cannot figure it out.

Cheers,

Mohammed
 
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