Replacing Idle Gear on an LGB 2-6-2.

AusrailQLD

AusrailQLD

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Not to long ago, I fixed up an old LGB 22802. 2-6-2.
But I noticed it didn't run smoothly when it comes to a certain spot in rotation.

So far, I've narrow it down to one of the idle gears having bad teeth. (#83)

However I'm struggling to get them out of the chassis to be replaced.
I know I have to pull them with with with the axles (#84) but I can't figure out how.
Tried Pulling upwards, but no movement.

Am I missing a step?


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Not done one of these but I think you need to push pin 84 out of the chassis moulding to release the idler gear.
 
Yes they click into a small hole either side, gently pressure with a screwdriver one side will remove them.
 
Are you sure it is the idler?

More often than not, the gear on the axle can run off the idler. This wears unevenly across the axle-gear, and it is this that slips..

PhilP
 
dunnyrail said:
Yes they click into a small hole either side, gently pressure with a screwdriver one side will remove them.
Click to expand...
Yes, I agree........i use a flat head screwdriver wedged under the shaft on one side, and with the screwdriver shaft touching another part of the locomotive's frame, you can pry it up and out. Be sure to put gear grease on the idler gear shafts before sliding the new idler gears on it.
 
PhilP said:
Are you sure it is the idler?

More often than not, the gear on the axle can run off the idler. This wears unevenly across the axle-gear, and it is this that slips..

PhilP
Click to expand...
The both the front and rear driving wheels and axles are new, as I had to replace the originals for the chuff systems.
Did examine them, and couldn't see anything unusual.

I'm currently stumped as to what is going on with my loco.
- Completely stripped it down and ran the motor with just the idle gears only, and it rolled smoothly.
- Re-installed the wheels (no rods) and it still ran smoothly.
- Connected the rods, and smoothly again.

Not unless I didn't get the quartering right the first time, which is strange as I'm always super careful.

Anyway, thanks everyone for the advice. :-)
 
Did you take the wheels off the axles? Getting them back on fiendishly tricky to get right. As you say getting quartering correct if you did not a bit of a pain but you say you are careful, so I must assume that is correct if you did not remove wheels. Have you tried running with just coupling rods back in place with some washers to block out the gaps? This may if you do not get good running suggest something with the valve gear.
 
dunnyrail said:
Did you take the wheels off the axles? Getting them back on fiendishly tricky to get right. As you say getting quartering correct if you did not a bit of a pain but you say you are careful, so I must assume that is correct if you did not remove wheels. Have you tried running with just coupling rods back in place with some washers to block out the gaps? This may if you do not get good running suggest something with the valve gear.
Click to expand...
After replacing a motor and maybe also the idler gears on an LGB steamer, I sometimes use my Dremel to expand the driving rods' openings on each end to give them more wiggle room. This is after I've tried adjusting the wheels sets axle gears to mate with the idler gears multiple times and still get some binding of the drive rods. Sometimes if just one of the wheel gears is off by even one tooth, there can be drive rod binding.........finding that sweet spot can be a challenge. So, the expanding the drive rod joint openings is my last resort!
 
dunnyrail said:
Did you take the wheels off the axles? Getting them back on fiendishly tricky to get right. As you say getting quartering correct if you did not a bit of a pain but you say you are careful, so I must assume that is correct if you did not remove wheels. Have you tried running with just coupling rods back in place with some washers to block out the gaps? This may if you do not get good running suggest something with the valve gear.
Click to expand...
I basically pulled everything apart and tested one at at time to make sure I didn't do anything wrong.
Motor only
Motor and Idle gears
Added wheels, no side rods.
Added Side rods (making sure quartering is right)
and finally valve gear.

Thankfully the loco is running smoothly again. :-)
 
I have worked on the American 20230/20232 and the idler gear does NOT come out the top and the metal shaft goes through the motor block. This enginme only needs the bottom plate removed and the idles shaft pushet out of the case. Beware that one end has groves to 'lock' it in place. I do not know about the 22802 but I thought I would give you all info on what I have seen.
 
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